I would advise to have a look at the article "adventures in refractor collimation". It is quite a good skill for any refractor owner to check if the objective and focuser collimated and if not good - to collimate them. Obviously, one will need some extra equipment - collimation mask (about 50 USD), laser (prices vary depending on Howie Glatter Laser or some others) and perhaps a collimation EP (I am using takahashi collimating scope).
However, here might be some peculiarities with Meade 152 - I am not aware of. My apologies if this piece of advice is completely out of the context if Meade is a way different.
I have no fear at all removing focuser and the objective and to recollimate everything back. I have LSOZ 152F8 - its objective has push and pull bolts. Initially focuser flange was glued - so it was not easy to reach baffles. I changed the focuser, but still.... baffles are also glued to the best of my understanding in my case. not just by friction.
why do you want to repaint the baffles? due to mold?
I've collimated at least a dozen achromatic doublet scopes in just the last few years. They don't bother me in the least. But the Meade EDs are known for needing extremely precise centering of the two elements, due to the high curvatures they used. Later versions had a modified cell with three set-screws for adjusting centering. Mine is very early, and lacks those, but it is still perfectly centered (and collimated). So, unless there is some secret way to remove the cell without disturbing the centering, I prefer to leave it in place.
I've also built my own baffle sets for several refractors, so I'm familiar with the geometry of the reflections that they are meant to stop. The main goal is to eliminate reflections from the interior of the tube. But also important is that they be very dark so that they are not sending light back up the tube, where it can reflect from the objective.
When I look down the objective end, the baffle paint is not very dark (more of a dark gray than black), and it is thin in places so that the aluminum reflects as bright spots.
The baffles are just held by tabs that are pressing out agains the tube, and are known to slip out of place sometimes. So my hope is that there is an easy way to remove the entire rear cell, which would allow me to slide them out, paint them, and slide them back in.
I know that the focuser comes off of the rear cell. But that doesn't create an opening large enough to remove the baffles. Although it would probably be enough access to straighten or reposition them if they slip.
I'm hoping that someone here, who has dealt with the peculiarities of the old Meade APOs, can share their experience.