Hey, like OldManSky said, this camera can take 10 mins exposures, but you really should be asking yourself WHY would you do 10 mins exposures. That topic is very complex and vast, but I highly suggest Cuiv the Lazy Geek's video on gain/offset/exposure time to get a better grasp on this. There are plenty of research videos on the topic of shorter vs longer subexposures that have proven that very long exposures are rarely worth it (unless you know why you're doing it).
Unless you're planning on doing extremely faint and unusual targets, chasing exposure time is a common beginner's trap. A better approach is trying to balance dynamic range and read noise your camera produces. The more gain, the less DR but the less read noise too. Take into consideration the fact that the shorter your subexposures, the less risk your subs get ruined by any variable out of your control (wind, planes, extreme satellites trails, ...). It's all a balancing act Unless you're really experienced and know WHY you're doing any exposure over 300s (5mins), I highly suggest you simply don't.
As for your darks library, here's what I've been working on for the past couple of days, and I think it's a nice balance of versatility. Attached is my current progress on my darks library (the layout was borrowed from another CN member who did that better than me!). Yellow is planned, green is done, the rest is not a priority for now. My plan is as follow :
- use gain 76 on targets that have dark gas structures (such as the eagle nebula) : the high dynamic range should allow for more details in here
- use gain 139 on pretty much everything else narrowband for now because that's the best balance of noise and DR most of the time
- use gain 200 on anything too faint or if I need to take short subs for some reason
- use mostly gain 76 on LRGB targets because most of these can really use higher dynamic range. Test things out for shorter subs with gain 139 and 200.
As for offset, I went and did Offset 60 because, while it's costing a little bit in dynamic range, i'm extra safe dodging dark pixels.
Someone with a much more practical approach than me please correct me if I'm wrong. I still need to test all of this out, but the theory should check out!
EDIT : Also attached is a 300s, -15°C, 139 gain and 60 offset dark sub from my library, with basic STF stretch in Pixinsight. The glowing edges is amp glow which you should notice in your light subs too.
Edited by maximalz, 21 September 2021 - 01:59 PM.