Back to serious answers, I'll expand a bit on Lee's, based on my own similar but somewhat different experiences and research.
It is my understanding after restoring my own scopes and reading the available literature, that the factory 'spin' alignments are not done to tune the telescope for aberrations, but rather, to tune the telescope to make the optical and mechanical axes of the telescope coincident. Apparently Celestron did do some hand correction of secondaries and restoring the original spin alignment markings also places any adjustments back where they belong.
The primary optical access is presumed to be the same as the baffle mechanical axis. As long as the primary was properly glued squarely to the mount. I don't believe the factory compensates for a crooked primary but based that only on one online example of a c14 that had to be reglued.
I think there are two most likely explanations here.
One is that the corrector with secondary was removed and reinstalled rotated 180° out of its normal orientation, the second (and I think more likely) is that, secondary housings often being easily rotated by accident (so far every one I've had, and the reason for the starizona sorbothane gasket for its hyperstar), the secondary housing was simply rotated 180° out of normal position.
It has been my experience based on my massively misaligned Meade that a misaligned telescope can be collimated, but will deliver badly aberrated images. My Meade gave awfully comatic images even after apparent collimation.
While ideally, the rotation of the secondary and housing should make no difference, the 'spin' rotation final alignment at the factory is done to place the secondary mirror, not the secondary housing or the attachment puck, exactly centered over the baffle tube, which should be exactly over the optical center of the primary.
After the tuning, most Celestrons are marked with an etched number on the front edge of the corrector at the 3:00 position viewed from the big end, and opposite side from the focuser knob.
The secondaries are also marked, with a fat sharpie stripe on the ground edge at the same position, AFAIK only visible after the corrector has been removed from the tube. Meade used a different method.
Back in the orange tube days I believe all the correctors were simply centered within the tube with cork spacers, but at some later point before my 2006 GPS11 Celestron started using a sticky mat, and centered the corrector perforation and/or secondary over the baffle on assembly, often leaving, correctly, the corrector not concentric to the cell.
Since it's common for secondaries to be rotated by accident, my FIRST step, no disassembly needed and easy to reverse, would be to simply rotate the secondary housing if it is free enough to rotate, to its normal name right side up position, and then see if the scope improves in sharpness.
If that doesn't do it, I suspect it will, I would then remove the retaining ring and look for the etched marking on the edge of the corrector and align the secondary housing with respect to the etching being in line with the writing, the corrector etched edge itself then being aligned to the 3:00 position on the telescope.
In the worst case, like my once sad GPS 11 with inexcusably soft images not disclosed by the seller (still upset- most users would simply have condemned the scope or resold it with disclosures) I found that the corrector was in the wrong position, that the secondary sharpie marking was in the wrong position, and even the fastaer holder was in the wrong position relative to the secondary (usually the notch is also at the 3:00 position as is the sharpie stripe on the secondary).
The corrector had also been improperly placed centrally in the cell, all due to a careless cleaning procedure, and the failure to follow any of the directions for installation of Bob's knobs. Those installation directions make sure that the alignment marks stay in the correct location.
On a scope that was built essentially centered, this wouldn't have made a difference. But my scope required offsets to the corrector and the secondary mirror to have them align properly with the baffle and primary.
After the alignment marks were properly placed, I had to also locate the correct position for the corrector, a couple of millimeters off center within the cell, and verify that the secondary mirror was absolutely centered over the baffle and, the primary optical axis once the factory alignments were restored to the secondary and the corrector edge.
This resulted in a very fine performing sharp GPS 11, a world away from what I was shipped.
I had also been working on a factory misassembled Meade 8 with a crooked baffle tube and a deteriorating secondary coating. Meade had actually glued the secondary off-center to the puck, intentionally, to allow the secondary to be rotated into place above the primary axis and the baffle axis. I can only assume they kept the stock of secondaries glued and varying distances from the center of the aluminum puck.
The corrector in that scope had to be placed flush to one edge of the cell. Obviously, this was an extreme case, but prior to the realignment it gave severely chromatic images even when collimated.
I can't wait to get it recoated, it gives every indication of being a excellent optic set. Once useless though, after a disassembly and careless reassembly.
I like the left-handed scope installation. As long as the optics are not touched it's a great solution.
Both were great learning experiences. But like many repairs it would have been nice not to learned them the hard way, reverse engineering why the factory made its alignments.