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I need recommendations on a 12VDC + 110VAC power tank that won't break the bank.

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#1 Borodog

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 08:59 AM

Requirements are simple; I need to run my CGEM, which is 12VDC, or my EQ platform or worm gear drive classic Celestrons, which are all 110VAC. A bonus would be powering the laptop, but it is older and power hungry (50-70 Watts) and is not absolutely necessary. I am spending money on astronomy equipment like water lately, so something easy on the budget is preferred.

 

Thanks for your thoughts.



#2 sanbai

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 09:05 AM

I went with the LiFePO4 Golabs 299Wh found in Amazon, but I haven't use it yet. Actually I don't have plans for the 110V output except for emergencies. It's going to be for dew heaters, visual use only.
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#3 Mike G.

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 09:20 AM

are you planning on running strictly on battery or do you have 120v nearby?  if you are going battery-only, you will need an inverter to produce 120v AC, which complicates things somewhat.


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#4 Borodog

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 09:28 AM

Battery only; if I am at the house I have 110V power for everything. I know that there are power tanks that have a sine wave inverter and 110V plugs built in. There are a plethora of them available in fact; hence the request for recommendations.


Edited by Borodog, 14 October 2021 - 09:29 AM.


#5 Tom M

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 09:50 AM

I picked up the Tenergy 300Wh unit a while back. In reality, I think most of these have similar performance so go with one that meets your requirements and seems to have good support. There is currently a $50 off coupon which brings it to $199.


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#6 wrvond

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 10:03 AM

Requirements are simple; I need to run my CGEM, which is 12VDC, or my EQ platform or worm gear drive classic Celestrons, which are all 110VAC. A bonus would be powering the laptop, but it is older and power hungry (50-70 Watts) and is not absolutely necessary. I am spending money on astronomy equipment like water lately, so something easy on the budget is preferred.

 

Thanks for your thoughts.

You would be ahead financially and logistically if you invested in 12 Vdc power cables. Your mounts run on 12 volts natively, the cables you currently have convert 110 Vac to 12 Vdc. You are proposing to convert 12 Vdc to 110 Vac and back to 12 Vdc - not very efficient.

There are plenty of plans available for building your own battery box - you can use the 12 v cigarette lighter style connectors, alligator clips or anything that strikes your fancy. I'm a fan of Anderson power poles myself.

 

Each of my mounts has wall wart power supplies, as do the dew strips, for when I am at home or near my camper. But for those times when 110 is not available, everything can run directly off of batteries, no invertor required.



#7 terrypaula

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 10:05 AM

I only use a battery booster, they provide very clean and consistent DC power. 

I, personally, NEVER use an AC adapter because I experienced a very costly power spike using one and it almost destroyed all my equipment.  Electronically a factory AC adapter killed my GM8 mount, which has been repaired/upgraded.  I had to purchase an entire Gemini 2 unit.  It turned into a big upgrade for me because it runs a bunch faster and quieter now. 

I also don't operate the Losmandy at 12 volts either 16 volts seems to take care of business very well.

I've also found that some car battery boosters can be used while they are charging.



#8 Borodog

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 10:19 AM

You would be ahead financially and logistically if you invested in 12 Vdc power cables. Your mounts run on 12 volts natively, the cables you currently have convert 110 Vac to 12 Vdc. You are proposing to convert 12 Vdc to 110 Vac and back to 12 Vdc - not very efficient.

There are plenty of plans available for building your own battery box - you can use the 12 v cigarette lighter style connectors, alligator clips or anything that strikes your fancy. I'm a fan of Anderson power poles myself.

 

Each of my mounts has wall wart power supplies, as do the dew strips, for when I am at home or near my camper. But for those times when 110 is not available, everything can run directly off of batteries, no invertor required.

That's why I asked for recommendations for units that have both 12VDC and 110VAC. I need 12VDC for the CGEM and 110VAC for EQ platform and worm gear drive Celestrons, my 1977 C90 and 1985 C8.



#9 wrvond

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 10:33 AM

In that case, I used this for a number of years and it worked quite well:

 

https://www.lowes.co...play/1000569111

 

Capture.JPG


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#10 Borodog

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 10:40 AM

In that case, I used this for a number of years and it worked quite well:

 

https://www.lowes.co...play/1000569111

 

attachicon.gifCapture.JPG

I don't see the Amp-hours listed. Do you know what it is?



#11 Enance42

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 10:41 AM

Knowing how much power your equipment uses would be helpfull. If you get to small of a power supply your night is over quickly. I just bought a Bluetti EB70 716WH. Massive upgrade from my Celestron which is only 157WH or so.
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#12 Borodog

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 10:46 AM

The AC units all use very little power, in the range of 1-3 W. I have no idea how much the CGEM uses; I haven't tested it yet. It's carrying a C11, for whatever that might be worth. As I said, the big power hog would be the laptop, at 50-70 Watts. 



#13 Enance42

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 11:05 AM

So say you have a 300wh battery. Your computer alone is using 50-70w so you should get 4 to 6 hours of use.

#14 wrvond

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 11:58 AM

I don't see the Amp-hours listed. Do you know what it is?

Here is the battery that is inside the unit:

 

Capture01.JPG

Capture02.JPG

Capture03.JPG



#15 MarMax

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 06:10 PM

Do you want to buy something off the shelf or put together some pieces yourself?

 

A 12V 35 Ah battery would handle your needs for probably 8 hours running everything. I have a 12V 18 Ah battery and it's run the mount, camera and laptop for 4 hours. You will need to add a small inverter for the 120V AC.

 

The 35 Ah is a reasonable size footprint at about 5" x 8". You can also use two 12V 18 Ah in parallel if it's more convenient.

 

EDITED to add that you'll need a battery charger if you don't have one already. I'd recommend a 5 Ah charger for the 35 Ah battery. And 10 Ah is too much and 2 Ah or less is not enough.

 

And if you are going off the shelf you'll want to make sure the power tank battery is close to a 35 Ah rating. As you said the laptop is the hog so if you can run it on AC you can drop the battery size to 18 Ah.

 

EDITED typo.


Edited by MarMax, 15 October 2021 - 02:29 PM.

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#16 Borodog

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Posted 16 October 2021 - 12:28 PM

So, thank you all, but I realized I am dumb as a post. I drive a Tesla. All I need is a 12V Y cable and a $50 pure sine wave inverter and I could literally have continuous power for days.
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#17 scopewizard

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Posted 16 October 2021 - 01:09 PM

I recommend a LiFePo4 battery. Why because it will stay above 12 VDC until around 90% drain while a conventional battery or deepcycle will drain below 12 vdc at or before the 50% usage.

So a 12vdc with rating of 35HA would list around 420 watts available. Sure but the voltage will drop to almost 8 vdc. It is recommended to only use 50% of the rating or about 200 watts on lead acid.

Batteries are made for specific use. A car battery is made for quick and short high demand with immediate recharge. Deepcycle are made for lower demand for long periods and should be recharged as soon as possible after use.

You can research the reasons why. LiFePo4 are also build for different purposes. I use the deepcycle type rating. They do not need to be recharged immediate. When stored for long periods, they loose very little while a deepcycle needs recharging after just a month.

 

A LiFePo4 12.8 vdc rated at 65ah weights under 20lbs. These will provide at least 650 watts before going under 12 vdc. I have one of these and also a 100ah that can run everything including my laptop for 3 to 4 days.

 

About a week ago I did 6.5 hours of imaging with my CGY, 2 x dew heaters set at 40%, ASI071MC cooler on to -5c, guider and minipc, only used 80 watts for the whole session. Laptop was in the house as everything is remotely controlled.



#18 rhaskins

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Posted 17 October 2021 - 11:47 AM

So, thank you all, but I realized I am dumb as a post. I drive a Tesla. All I need is a 12V Y cable and a $50 pure sine wave inverter and I could literally have continuous power for days.

I have a Tesla also, would not do that. You only have power where you can drive your car. And if you are thinking of a long cord out to the scope 50 ft away, your voltage can drop so that nothing works properly if at all.

 

Rick



#19 Delta608

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Posted 17 October 2021 - 12:12 PM

Jackery's go on sale tomorrow...15% off....



#20 StephenOTT

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Posted 17 October 2021 - 03:38 PM

Found it to be best price for a nights power:
ROCKSOLAR Adventurer RS328 Portable Power Station https://www.amazon.c...ding=UTF8&psc=1

#21 Delta608

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Posted 17 October 2021 - 04:13 PM

Found it to be best price for a nights power:
ROCKSOLAR Adventurer RS328 Portable Power Station https://www.amazon.c...ding=UTF8&psc=1

  No cigarette 12V DC that I can see...

 

 

 

 

Edit: Comes with the adapter...Thanks  StephenOTT  !!!!


Edited by Delta608, 17 October 2021 - 04:22 PM.


#22 StephenOTT

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Posted 17 October 2021 - 04:15 PM

  No cigarette 12V DC that I can see...

It comes with a adapter to connect it to 12v outs, similar to: https://www.amazon.c...aps,179&sr=8-27


Edited by StephenOTT, 17 October 2021 - 04:17 PM.


#23 Delta608

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Posted 17 October 2021 - 04:21 PM

It comes with a adapter to connect it to 12v outs, similar to: https://www.amazon.c...aps,179&sr=8-27

  I see....I may get it myself for the mount....Thanks !!!



#24 carolinaskies

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Posted 17 October 2021 - 05:36 PM

I have a Tesla also, would not do that. You only have power where you can drive your car. And if you are thinking of a long cord out to the scope 50 ft away, your voltage can drop so that nothing works properly if at all.

 

Rick

https://www.youtube....h?v=2nMs_DwveqA



#25 TelescopeGreg

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Posted 17 October 2021 - 07:05 PM

Every EV is different, and the trick is pulling current from a place where the car won't mind.  Newer cars tend to have more monitoring, both EVs and even good ol' ICEs, and will trip some diagnostic logs if the added load exceeds some (unpublished) value.

 

But the point is, unlike a traditional ICE, there's a lot of juice stored in an EV's battery, and running a telescope draws very little.  The 12v accessory outlet is plenty.  As long as you can keep the car "awake" enough to monitor and replenish the 12v system (this is car dependent), you're not going to get stranded with a car that won't start.




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