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SVBONY SV 105

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#1 Stardust Dave

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 10:44 AM

Haven't done any AP since the film days, and am ignorant in most all aspects of imaging from hardware to software..  Been enjoying all of your captures - but there are times I wanted to capture a really good prom . I'd be dependent on someone catching what I saw, and posting it. 

 

Looking at the SVBONY SV105 . Saw for $60.00 on amazon. 

As I read description 

 

"SV105 works well with telescope focal lengths in 400mm to 800mm range so using a refractor telescope with this focal length should allow seeing a clear image without any accessories.

When using a refractor telescope on the Moon with over 1000mm focal length you may need a focal reducer in order to focus correctly. SVBony also sells a 1.25” focal reducer."

 

I am intending to use it on f /10  8"SCT to shoot both WL and H-alpha. 

Camera to be behind a rear mounted Daystar single etalon with an off axis ERF in front. 

The WL set up is Badder film and polarizers.

 

Questions would be -

Worthwhile to pursue this combo, appropriate for this use

Which is the correct focal length reducer to use.

What are the longest cables I can use.

 

I haven't interest right now in using multiple software programs to process images.

That has been the turn-off for me. Would the provided SharpCap be sufficient for my intended use?

 

Again this would be my first electronic AP camera. (My OM-1) is up in classifieds. 

Haven't shot anything (outside a smartphone pic at EP) since early 90's.

 

Expectations are to be able to capture WL detail ,granulation and faculae well

In H-alpha would like to see the level of detail in proms I can see visually. As well as the details I can see in active regions.

Expecting too much from this camera at this price?

 

I'm in no hurries. Thanks 

 

 



#2 rblackadar

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 12:07 PM

If you can afford a Daystar, I think you can afford a better camera. SV 105 is basically a webcam, also it's color and I think you want monochrome for what you propose.

 

(And the price is a bit high too, compared to Ebay.)

 

As for their comment about focus, I think that may be somebody not quite successfully trying to write in English as a second language. It's just wrong. The relevant point is field of view -- you can't capture the full disc of the moon (or sun) on its small sensor, if the FL is too long. 


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#3 Tailspin45

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 01:02 PM

I concur with the comment that you need a better camera than the $60 SV105 which is almost in the toy category.

 

I had one for a about a week and found it really suffers from sensor bloom and pixel vignetting (which can be calibrated out with flats, but...).

 

Upgraded to the $150 SV305 which I had for about 3 months before upgrading again to a ZWO camera

 

Here's what I captured yesterday with an SV-305 and a Lunt 40/B600 Ha solar scope.

 

2021-10-13_13-22-06.png


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#4 MalVeauX

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 01:11 PM


 

I am intending to use it on f /10  8"SCT to shoot both WL and H-alpha. 

Camera to be behind a rear mounted Daystar single etalon with an off axis ERF in front. 

The WL set up is Badder film and polarizers.

 

Questions would be -

Worthwhile to pursue this combo, appropriate for this use

Which is the correct focal length reducer to use.

What are the longest cables I can use.

 

I'm in no hurries. Thanks 

Heya,

 

I would pump the breaks on using a C8 at all for any solar. I would not buy a sub-aperture ERF for a C8 and then put a Quark behind it either. These approaches require excellent seeing conditions to be worth while at these image-scales. You would be much better off with a 4 in refractor for this job and in red wavelengths (like HA is) could top off in around 1.5 arc-second conditions. A 200mm aperture in red would need lower than 1 arc-second seeing, closer to 0.8 arc-seconds in red, to be usable really with any resolution potential. So unless you already know what your general seeing conditions are like, in day time, I would back peddle big time on the larger aperture. 60~100mm aperture in solar is actually quite lot, because our star is so big and close, and because day time seeing conditions are so poor.

 

Before dishing out for the ERF and Quark and all that; I would suggest you get a white light setup first, it's much cheaper to build, and will give you the same experience in terms of what resolution is possible, what image scale, etc, in your seeing conditions, if you image in red wavelength (610nm Baader for example, or any basic red imaging filter). It will be photosphere, but it will tell you how an HA system of the same aperture and image scale would perform in your seeing conditions. Super handy information to know before dishing out for expensive stuff.

 

Very best,


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#5 Stardust Dave

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 01:54 PM

The scope and Daystar ATM were purchased mid 80's.  

 

Was not intending to go get a C-8 rear mount a daystar ATM and image from there.

I already own an 8"SCT and off axis ERF and rear mount filter. as well as a Baader WL filter for the scope. Looking to add only a camera. 

 

Regarding seeing I have good to excellent seeing here for Solar . I employ higher powers when appropriate in each session . I am fine with the performance of the scope in WL full aperture and 70mm ERF with Daystar ATM.

 

"Before dishing out for the ERF and Quark and all that; I would suggest you get a white light setup first, it's much cheaper to build, and will give you the same experience in terms of what resolution is possible, what image scale, etc, in your seeing conditions, if you image in red wavelength (610nm Baader for example, or any basic red imaging filter). It will be photosphere, but it will tell you how an HA system of the same aperture and image scale would perform in your seeing conditions. Super handy information to know before dishing out for expensive stuff."

 I may have given the impression that I had not had previous Solar viewing experience. 

No expert observer here , but I log many hours in the 8" SCT in both WL and H-alpha over the decades. It has been more than adequate for my purposes.smile.gif  


Edited by Stardust Dave, 14 October 2021 - 02:18 PM.


#6 MalVeauX

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 02:49 PM

Hi,

 

Good to know. Since you have the stuff, nothing wrong with trying it out. Image away.

 

Visual and imaging are two very different things however, regarding large aperture and the concept of seeing. Your brain is an amazing processor.

 

The camera will be a factor in this. I suggest you aim at a 3.45um or larger pixel size, mono and look for something capable of 100+ FPS with the full or near full FOV of the sensor used.

 

Very best,


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