I agree that it is an Edmund Super Space Conqueror. The motor cover does confirm that the motor was made in 1969 which means this is from that year or 1970. The mount is in excellent shape and they were quite stout and reliable. The drive is very simple and works quite well. It's one of the most easy clock drives to repair and use.
The EQ mount is quite strong and will move very freely. When this was made they were still using self lubricating bronze bushings instead of the later junk nylon inserts. The latter were a mess and always wore out. The old man has taken those apart, broached the axle bores to size and inserted bronze bushings into them as replacements. Apparently, in the late 1970s, Edmund was trying to cut costs and went to the cheap and sloppy nylon inserts.
The tube is made from seamless aluminum and has a coating that was known as porcelainized. It is very strong and does not scratch as easily as paint or fiberglass. If you need to repair damage to the tube it is not difficult. Many people use automotive paint but, you can just as easily have it anodized to the original color. There are a few coating companies that can still produce the original porcelain type of finish which is much harder and durable than the other two methods. It's a matter of expense that will determine which choice you make.
The extra holes on the OTA are for the camera/solar projection screen that was an option for the Edmund Newtonians. I see the mounting bracket there. Hopefully, you got the white screen or, at least the camera bracket. If not, they are easy to find or duplicate.
The secondary is in dire need of a new coating. It can be removed but, it's kind of a bugger to remount it. Any coating company will have to remove it from the stalk in order to apply a new coating. If you do have that done it would be well worth the effort and small expense to give the primary a new coating, too. IF the UPCO sticker is still on the back of the mirror you might wish to gently remove it before having if coated. You can then replace it upon its return. Normally, those are sacrificed when the mirrors are given a new coating. UPCO was the optic house that supplied Edmund, Jeagers and Criterion, to name a few. They made very good mirrors which have never let us down. The old man says that some of the ones he has had were far better than the declared 1/4 wave accuracy. He has yet to find one that was any worse than 1/8 and normally 1/10 wave accuracy. They have always been a dead on match for any Criterion RV-6 and others.
The focuser does stand away from the tube a small bit but, my old man and I have never had any issues with light intrusion since the amount of space is so small. It really cannot get into the path very easily because any light that does enter will be almost at 90 degrees off axis from the light path.
I see that you got both of the counterweights and the shaft that was originally supplied with them. The second CW with that shaft are for balancing the OTA when a camera is mounted upon it. It was supposed to help keep the center of gravity closer to the DEC axis which meant that you would not have to apply excessive force to the clamping knob.
The eyepiece that you have is a 1" focal length Kellner model. It and a few other EPs were standard with that telescope. The others would have been a 1/2" fl and f/4" fl Ramsden design accompanied by an Edmund 2x Barlow lens. The tube in the focuser uses light tension to hold the EP in place. The old man says he never noted any major scratches on his EPs from any of the Edmund scopes he has owned. (His first scope was the 4-1/4" f/10 version known as the Palomar Junior.) We have had a number of the Edmund scopes come to us and every one has been an excellent performer because they are simple and well built, unlike some of the "premium" brands from those days! LOL
The finder scope is a Towa supplied 6 x 30mm. The objective housing is the focusing mechanism. The cross hairs were made from extremely thin copper wire. We have replaced missing cross hairs in those with either fine copper wire from a very small electric motor or threads from a spider's web. It appears that a previous owner drilled a hole in the tube to install a small light to illuminate the cross-hairs. It can be repaired or used again as you see fit to do.
You have rescued a wonderful instrument from the scrap bin and should be commended for doing so. If you wish to restore it completely it will be a simple but, rewarding project. However, you can just clean it up and put it back into use. The others here noted that they really are not worth much because so many of them were sold. Although, our opinion is that they are unsung heroes of the space age. They were not Prima Donna instruments when compared to other instruments from that time period. They were excellent telescopes for short money and were built to be used heavily. They never let any of us down, ever.
I kind of ran off a bit there didn't I? LOL That's Okay, the old man would be writing an entire book on this telescope if you let him. LOL
We hope that you enjoy your rescue scope. As was noted above, this site has more information and resources for your project than you will ever need. If we can be of assistance in any way just let us know.
Clear skies, (whatever those are!)