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problems with dummy battery canon eos 4000d

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#1 astronoob96

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Posted 06 December 2021 - 01:43 AM

i have a canon 4000d what i do astro with and i recently bought a dummy battery for it. it seems to work except that the cable(of the dummy battery) does not allow the battery compartment to close and because of that the camera does not turn on. does anyone know how to solve this problem?



#2 ziggeman

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Posted 06 December 2021 - 01:56 AM

drill a hole for the cable?

Drilling in plastic could crack it if not carefully done. Slowly puncturing the plastic with a hot soldering iron could also make a hole for a cable


Edited by ziggeman, 06 December 2021 - 02:04 AM.


#3 17.5Dob

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Posted 06 December 2021 - 04:18 AM

drill a hole for the cable?
Drilling in plastic could crack it if not carefully done. Slowly puncturing the plastic with a hot soldering iron could also make a hole for a cable


If the OP's dummy is like mine, there's a fairly large diameter cable socket fitting on the end. There wouldn't be much left of the battery door once you drilled/melted a hole big enough to let the fitting pass through....not to mention all of the dust/dirt/moisture than now could get in.

It don't have that problem because it doesn't make any difference closed, or not, with my Nikon.....

#4 Tim J Fowler

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Posted 06 December 2021 - 08:26 AM

My Canon 600D has a little notch (from the factory) in the door, with a notch in the body (with rubber cover) that allows the cable to pass through. Maybe try cutting something like that. 

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#5 F.Meiresonne

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Posted 06 December 2021 - 01:14 PM

Gosh, i never noticed that....i have a Canon 600D too, and if the 600D has that might be that an 800D has that too...hmm. i bought a spare batterie for both,  not to become powerless but i have to change to the batteries if it is empty...normally they don't hold  longer then 3 hours...


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#6 galacticinsomnia

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Posted 06 December 2021 - 05:00 PM

Pull the rubber plug.  You'd bet a lot better off to replace the wire in a dummy battery than doing damage to your camera. 

Find a different MFG of a dummy battery.. They are like 20 bucks. 
It's good to opt for the cable that comes out of the Side of the dummy battery, rather than pointed out the bottom that can cause the door to not want to close because of the looping of the cable inside. 
 

Clear skies !!

 



#7 Tim J Fowler

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Posted 06 December 2021 - 06:43 PM

Gosh, i never noticed that....i have a Canon 600D too, and if the 600D has that might be that an 800D has that too...hmm. i bought a spare batterie for both,  not to become powerless but i have to change to the batteries if it is empty...normally they don't hold  longer then 3 hours...

Yes, I use BackyardEOS, and whenever a battery died BYEOS would have to be rebooted, so I went this route. Makes life much easier, although I suck at cable management, and a dummy battery just adds to the suckiness!

 

Also, not sure if the "Pull the rubber plug" comment is for me, but there's no chance of damaging the camera, or wire for that matter, with the rubber plug in.


Edited by Tim J Fowler, 06 December 2021 - 06:45 PM.


#8 kevinbreen

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Posted 06 December 2021 - 06:53 PM

I used a dummy battery in my 600D for about 6 months but then suddenly dummy batteries stopped powering the camera, even when I replaced the dummy battery. I ended up buying 2 cheap replacement normal batteries (and last weekend I lost the original Canon battery, bummer). I suspect the dummy battery upset something in the camera. I'm having the main board replaced in the camera as the USB connection is broken (sounds like I need a new camera, right?) and then I'll test the dummy battery again. I'll let you know.

#9 Tim J Fowler

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Posted 07 December 2021 - 07:46 AM

I used a dummy battery in my 600D for about 6 months but then suddenly dummy batteries stopped powering the camera, even when I replaced the dummy battery. I ended up buying 2 cheap replacement normal batteries (and last weekend I lost the original Canon battery, bummer). I suspect the dummy battery upset something in the camera. I'm having the main board replaced in the camera as the USB connection is broken (sounds like I need a new camera, right?) and then I'll test the dummy battery again. I'll let you know.

I hope the dummy battery isn't a common Canon killer. I only recently started using mine, maybe 4-5 sessions, but the 600D is my only camera (other than cell phone). I bought it for some Alaska trips we took and it's been great for AP (mostly planetary), so losing it would be painful. I haven't even considered a backup plan.



#10 kevinbreen

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Posted 07 December 2021 - 12:13 PM

I hope the dummy battery isn't a common Canon killer. I only recently started using mine, maybe 4-5 sessions, but the 600D is my only camera (other than cell phone). I bought it for some Alaska trips we took and it's been great for AP (mostly planetary), so losing it would be painful. I haven't even considered a backup plan.


It could very well be that it's just because my camera is from 2014. But it IS odd nevertheless that ordinary batteries still work.
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#11 nofxrx

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Posted 07 December 2021 - 06:28 PM

Kevin, most likely your issue is simply poor workmanship and quality control. If you can, open up your dummy battery and check the solder connections... most likely you'll find some cold or cracked solder joints...i swear sometimes they just throw components at a circuit board and see if it sticks. If it does=ship it.

#12 kevinbreen

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Posted 08 December 2021 - 08:16 AM

Kevin, most likely your issue is simply poor workmanship and quality control. If you can, open up your dummy battery and check the solder connections... most likely you'll find some cold or cracked solder joints...i swear sometimes they just throw components at a circuit board and see if it sticks. If it does=ship it.

I wish it were so, Brent. These dummy batteries are snapped together plastic but I opened one and the joints look fine. Here's the weird thing - each of the batteries power the camera no problem. But, when I take a test shot by depressing the shutter button (as you do) the red light at the bottom right of the rear of the camera remains on red and the operation freezes - ie the camera doesn't do its usual second "CLICK"  as it usually does in the processing of taking an exposure. But that's not the end of the problem - the whole camera has frozen at this point, nothing works, not even the ON/OFF button  and the only way to power off the camera is by unplugging it from the mains or removing the battery and it is only when the camera is powered on again that it returns that second anticipated "CLICK". 

 

It's perplexing. Hence I have no option but to use normal batteries and suffer the down time when the fall to zero power. 



#13 FrostByte

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Posted 08 December 2021 - 08:36 AM

I wish it were so, Brent. These dummy batteries are snapped together plastic but I opened one and the joints look fine. Here's the weird thing - each of the batteries power the camera no problem. But, when I take a test shot by depressing the shutter button (as you do) the red light at the bottom right of the rear of the camera remains on red and the operation freezes - ie the camera doesn't do its usual second "CLICK"  as it usually does in the processing of taking an exposure. But that's not the end of the problem - the whole camera has frozen at this point, nothing works, not even the ON/OFF button  and the only way to power off the camera is by unplugging it from the mains or removing the battery and it is only when the camera is powered on again that it returns that second anticipated "CLICK". 

 

It's perplexing. Hence I have no option but to use normal batteries and suffer the down time when the fall to zero power. 

Kevin, not to hijack this thread but I've run into this issue when the DC convertor for the dummy battery didn't have enough current to power the camera during the exposure. Everything runs fine right up until then, but when you take the exposure everything "hangs" or shuts down. I suspect there's a supply problem to the battery not getting enough current.


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#14 KLWalsh

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Posted 08 December 2021 - 09:04 AM

My old Nikon D5100 and my somewhat newer D810a both have a small rubber plug that can be pivoted out of the way for the dummy battery cord.
I use Gonine power supplies for the cameras. Both Gonines are about 5 years ago. I’ve had no problems with the cameras or the power supplies.
I did accidentally pop the battery cover completely off the D810a once, but it snapped right back into place.

#15 charlieb123

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Posted 08 December 2021 - 10:07 AM

On my dummy battery the power connector can wiggle off and lose connection.

I ended up putting a piece of plastic between the inside of the battery compartment and the power plug to keep it from unplugging.

 

May not be your issue but I thought I should mention it.



#16 kevinbreen

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Posted 08 December 2021 - 10:36 AM

On my dummy battery the power connector can wiggle off and lose connection.
I ended up putting a piece of plastic between the inside of the battery compartment and the power plug to keep it from unplugging.

May not be your issue but I thought I should mention it.


Interesting... maybe the fault lies in the snugness of the dummy batteries in the camera as a result of wear and tear on the camera itself. I'll try jamming it firmly in with cardboard or something

#17 jgmoxness

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Posted 08 December 2021 - 10:40 AM

Another possible hack would be to find the micro-switch that the battery door pushes to signal the door is closed so the camera turns on (likely in the rim of the door opening).

 

If you can insert something (toothpick) between the switch and door to push it when partially closed (tape or rubber band it shut) - then the camera will think it is closed when it is not.

 

Personally I use a battery extender which give more battery time (2 vs 1) and that can use a 110vac powered dummy as well (and the door on that extender doesn't quite work as smoothly as it should either).



#18 kevinbreen

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Posted 08 December 2021 - 10:50 AM

Kevin, not to hijack this thread but I've run into this issue when the DC convertor for the dummy battery didn't have enough current to power the camera during the exposure. Everything runs fine right up until then, but when you take the exposure everything "hangs" or shuts down. I suspect there's a supply problem to the battery not getting enough current.


Don't worry, I've already hijacked this thread, Todd. Apologies to the Original Poster 🥰.

What dummy battery do you use?

I use(d) these crap ones from Amazon.

I phoned a camera shop today and they told me there's a worldwide shortage of dummy batteries for the last 2 years.

#19 FrostByte

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Posted 08 December 2021 - 11:58 AM

Don't worry, I've already hijacked this thread, Todd. Apologies to the Original Poster 🥰.

What dummy battery do you use?

I use(d) these crap ones from Amazon.

I phoned a camera shop today and they told me there's a worldwide shortage of dummy batteries for the last 2 years.

I use one of these, but at the time I bought it the battery insert was connected with a mini-jack, and I could replace it with one that fit my 600D... Then I just plug it into my 12Vdc supply to power the camera.

 

https://www.amazon.c...em?ie=UTF8&th=1



#20 galacticinsomnia

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Posted 08 December 2021 - 07:46 PM

I wish it were so, Brent. These dummy batteries are snapped together plastic but I opened one and the joints look fine. Here's the weird thing - each of the batteries power the camera no problem. But, when I take a test shot by depressing the shutter button (as you do) the red light at the bottom right of the rear of the camera remains on red and the operation freezes - ie the camera doesn't do its usual second "CLICK"  as it usually does in the processing of taking an exposure. But that's not the end of the problem - the whole camera has frozen at this point, nothing works, not even the ON/OFF button  and the only way to power off the camera is by unplugging it from the mains or removing the battery and it is only when the camera is powered on again that it returns that second anticipated "CLICK". 

 

It's perplexing. Hence I have no option but to use normal batteries and suffer the down time when the fall to zero power. 

If you are getting the red light on when using a dummy battery, that is most likely because you are not suppling the correct voltage/wattage/amperage to the camera.

Replace the Power delivery, or replace the dummy battery.  It is horrible to waste your time fiddling with a 15.00 item.

Clear Skies !!

 



#21 Rocklobster

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Posted 09 December 2021 - 12:47 AM

i have a canon 4000d what i do astro with and i recently bought a dummy battery for it. it seems to work except that the cable(of the dummy battery) does not allow the battery compartment to close and because of that the camera does not turn on. does anyone know how to solve this problem?

I have the same camera...just get some files and file a groove out for the cable to slot in. It's works perfectly..

If you need me to send you pictures of what I did, just ask. Send me a message
It's super easy and takes 10 mins to do. The camera hack, not messaging me

Sent from my WP5 using Tapatalk
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#22 otoien

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Posted 09 December 2021 - 01:36 AM

If you are getting the red light on when using a dummy battery, that is most likely because you are not suppling the correct voltage/wattage/amperage to the camera.

Replace the Power delivery, or replace the dummy battery.  It is horrible to waste your time fiddling with a 15.00 item.

Clear Skies !!

 

Regarding the power draw and how to remedy it, one might want to look at my post here:

https://nikongear.ne...37083#msg137083

and my post #5 in this thread:

https://www.cloudyni...external-power/

The essence of it is that mirror movement causes a peak in power draw that can be leveled out with a supercapacitor to avoid that the dc converter/power bank shuts off and camera get into error mode in mid shutter actuation.


Edited by otoien, 09 December 2021 - 01:37 AM.


#23 ziggeman

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Posted 09 December 2021 - 11:57 AM

I am gonna forget upgrading my dslr and buy a dedicated ccd camera like a asic, svbony or whatever they are instead. 



#24 kevinbreen

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Posted 09 December 2021 - 12:06 PM

I am gonna forget upgrading my dslr and buy a dedicated ccd camera like a asic, svbony or whatever they are instead.


Traitor!
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#25 Tim J Fowler

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Posted 10 December 2021 - 07:59 PM

Regarding the power draw and how to remedy it, one might want to look at my post here:

https://nikongear.ne...37083#msg137083

and my post #5 in this thread:

https://www.cloudyni...external-power/

The essence of it is that mirror movement causes a peak in power draw that can be leveled out with a supercapacitor to avoid that the dc converter/power bank shuts off and camera get into error mode in mid shutter actuation.

Wouldn't using the mirror lock up eliminate the need to do this? 




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