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Sony Bulb Mode + Imaging Edge App. How to shoot intervals > 30 sec?

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16 replies to this topic

#1 gabebalazs

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Posted 26 January 2022 - 03:53 PM

Now that I got a Skyguider Pro, I can finally be shooting subs longer than a few seconds.

 

I have a Sony A7III and an A7RIII. I also have the Sony Imaging Edge app for Android.

Now, the problem is that although I can access BULB mode via the app, I don't seem to find a way to shoot intervals (e.g. 50 x 2 minute subs with 5 seconds in between them). Without the app I can do interval shooting with the built-in intervalometer on both bodies but those max out at 30 seconds, no BULB mode. 

 

Is there any workaround, or I need a different app or tethering?



#2 calypsob

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Posted 30 January 2022 - 02:05 PM

pm Mark Shelley and ask him for a link to the ap he made for controlling sony cameras through imaging edge.  You cant do an intervalometer in the edge ap with bulb support. Its ridiculous to me.

 

Marks software is amazing and it lets you use phd to autoguide and dither in addition to full exposure bulb control. 


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#3 gabebalazs

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Posted 30 January 2022 - 06:19 PM

Wes, thanks for the tip!

 

In the meantime I did some more research and seems like that if I don't mind more cables, I could tether the Sony cameras to my computer and use Imaging Edge Desktop instead. It has a much more sophisticated system, and I think can set exposure time in bulb mode and interval shooting too. Not 100% positive yet but it seems like it should work. BUT I of course would prefer wireless. I think the newest gen Sonys do work with Imaging Edge Desktop wirelessly. Mine don't, at least according to Sony's website.


Edited by gabebalazs, 30 January 2022 - 06:22 PM.


#4 calypsob

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Posted 30 January 2022 - 06:25 PM

Wes, thanks for the tip!

 

In the meantime I did some more research and seems like that if I don't mind more cables, I could tether the Sony cameras to my computer and use Imaging Edge Desktop instead. It has a much more sophisticated system, and I think can set exposure time in bulb mode and interval shooting too. Not 100% positive yet but it seems like it should work. BUT I of course would prefer wireless. I think the newest gen Sonys do work with Imaging Edge Desktop wirelessly. Mine don't, at least according to Sony's website.

sorry I thought that is what you meant. The phone ap is terrible, it turns off when the screen goes to sleep what a joke. The PC program unfortunately does not allow you to control the length of bulb exposures. 

 

btw here is a link to marks thread https://www.cloudyni...ras/?p=8345634 


Edited by calypsob, 30 January 2022 - 06:26 PM.


#5 Feldhusen

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Posted 01 February 2022 - 11:02 AM

What about skipping the app and go for an old fashioned cabeled timer remote?

 

My cheap ones work even in -30 C without a hitch.

 

Not wireless but pretty worryless.


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#6 nsblifer

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Posted 02 February 2022 - 06:38 AM

Just use an external intervalometer. I use JCC timer remote. 20 bucks, robust, just a small cable directly to your camera body.
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#7 CltFlyboy

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Posted 02 February 2022 - 08:10 AM

I've been testing this Pixel intervalometer I got last week (just inside getting used to it). It's super easy to use and foolproof. I can't wait to take it on a test run, might do that tonight with just a tripod shooting 5-10 sec subs. I love that it has a wireless remote (not IR) that has a very long range; conceptually I could sit inside and manage the process etc.



#8 gabebalazs

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Posted 02 February 2022 - 08:35 AM

Thank you for all the responses. 

 

Wes, I've just downloaded Mark's app and will test it hopefully on Saturday.



#9 mmalik

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Posted 02 February 2022 - 08:35 AM

Here...



#10 Borodog

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Posted 02 February 2022 - 05:25 PM

Just use an external intervalometer. I use JCC timer remote. 20 bucks, robust, just a small cable directly to your camera body.

Thanks for the recommendation. Looked at a few and went with this.


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#11 Borodog

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Posted 02 February 2022 - 05:29 PM

mmalik,

 

How is the first graph in this post calculated, and is there an analogous graph for the a6000?



#12 mmalik

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Posted 02 February 2022 - 06:03 PM

How is the first graph in this post calculated, and is there an analogous graph for the a6000?

 

Per Kasson/Claff...

Attached Thumbnails

  • Capture.JPG

Edited by mmalik, 02 February 2022 - 06:04 PM.

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#13 Borodog

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Posted 02 February 2022 - 06:39 PM

"Bill Claff calls the above curves “Photographic Dynamic Range Shadow Improvement” curves. If you compare them to the curves in the previous post, I think you’ll see that they are inverses of each other."

 

Boom; thank you.

 

It appears that perhaps by this metric ISO 1000 might be the best bet? Would you agree with that?

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • a6000_shadow_improvement.jpg


#14 spazmore

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Posted 02 February 2022 - 06:55 PM

Friendly reminder: let's keep the post relevant to the OP's original question. Thanks.



#15 gabebalazs

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Posted 03 February 2022 - 09:58 AM

Friendly reminder: let's keep the post relevant to the OP's original question. Thanks.

Thank you for the reminder. I actually don't mind the direction of the discussion because it is actually still somewhat relevant, to me at least, since I also have a recently modded a6000 and I'm actually very interested about what ISOs to use, read noise, etc. smile.gif


Edited by gabebalazs, 03 February 2022 - 09:59 AM.

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#16 DangsStars

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Posted 16 April 2022 - 07:42 PM

Back on topic, I had this same Bulb mode question for my Sony cameras recently and discovered that the PC version of Sony Imaging Edge "Remote" has an intervalometer that does support Bulb exposures >30 seconds. I don't know when they added this feature, but it looks like an afterthought and is practically invisible. You'll find it under Remote/Tools/Settings/BULB shooting. This is for PC tethered shooting, and I don't know about mobile or wireless support.



#17 vidrazor

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Posted 16 April 2022 - 11:48 PM

Actually you don't need to worry too much about getting longer sub times, what's more important is total sub time. Just get yourself a really good polar alignment, and shoot 30 second subs. You unfortunately can't dither other than manually, and you should keep that in mind and manually dither. With the scopes you're listing, you're not going to be able to pull off longer subs without autoguiding anyway, so really, you're already set. Just use the intervalometers right in the cameras and just shoot lots of subs. You're in a decent Bortle for this as well.




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