My club was donated 2 LX200GPS scopes. One a 10" and one 8". Both had issues and we were able to repair both. In the process one of my club members donated an LX200GPS mount that he bought for parts to keep his own LX200GPS running. We only needed one gear from the mount so the rest he gave to me since I wanted to see if I could get it running.
All the electronics and the drive were out of the scopes and in a box. So the first job was to put it all back together to see what was working and what wasn't. Well almost every board had issues.
First project was to see if the main power board that holds the CPU and memory was alive. I had two boards in the pile of parts to try. You don't have to have them hooked up to the rest of the boards to see if they will communicate over the RS232 serial ports. Luckily both boards were alive and I updated both of them using StarPatch to latest StarPatch version of the firmware. I highly recommend this over the Meade firmware and loader software. StarPatch is bug free and offers many options and most off all fixes the GPS rollover problem.
Next came the motor driver boards. It was easy to see the problems with them. The RA board had one burned up MOSFET and the DEC board two of them. Off to Ebay and I was able to find replacements for only a few dollars. These are surface mounted parts and easily removed with low melting solder and liquid flux. The solder stays liquid at a lower temperature then standard solder . You flood the pins of the IC with the low melting solder and flux and get just pick the part off the board, then give the board a shake to remove what is left of the solder. Then clean up the flux with a little isopropyl alcohol .
Here are a couple of pictures of the boards with the damaged parts and with them removed. It is easy to "drag solder " the new surface mount parts back in place so I had both boards with new parts installed and hoping that is all it would take to get the mount working. So I assembled everything and power up the mount. I hit the buttons on the Autostar II controller to slew the mount and display on the Autostar went blank, the RA motor moved the scope but very slowly . What now was the problem ? I hooked the scope up to my lab power supply to see how much current the scope was drawing. Powered it back up and when I tried to move the scope it was drawing a HUGE 4 amps !!!
Were was that huge draw coming from ? I disconnected the motor and no more huge current draw. I attached the RA motor directly to the power supply and it was the RA motor. The DEC motor was doing the same.
I took the DEC motor apart and was treated to an armature that looked like it was placed on the barbecue !! It was black from being over heated!
I can only guess that maybe the former owner tried to use the scope with the power supply that was much higher then the 12 volts ? I also understand that these motors do go bad because of how the Pulse Width Modulation controls them. Who know but in any case I needed two motors.
Some digging and I found out that they are 12volt at 12000 rpm with a special armature designed to reducing clogging and custom made by Igarashi for Meade. Meade has an non disclosure agreement with them so Igarashi won't sell them to you. Meade sells/sold the whole drive assembly but they want close to $400 for it. You can't put any old DC motor in place of these since the servo control algorithm is tuned for the spec's of these motors
A hunt on Ebay and others places turned up empty, so what to do ? You Tube had a couple of videos on how to rewind motors. It looked pretty easy so I measured the wire diameter on the armatures and ordered a spool off of Amazon for $10 which gave me enough to rewind maybe 50 motors.
I was able to carefully unwind the coils and count the turns. I cleaned up armature and then spent about 30 minutes carefully rewinding the five coils on the armature in the same pattern that I removed them.
I assembled the motor and it ran ! Better yet it was only drawing about 350ma . I attached it the 50:1 gear box and checked the RPM with an optical Tach and was getting around 245 rpm at 12 volts and the spec's called for 240 at 12.0 volts but the tach isn't super accurate and I was reading the 12 volts off the analog gage on my power supply so I felt that the motor was within spec.
Here is a picture of the cooked armature and the rewound one. I'm now in the process of rewind the other motor. So more to come, if I can get Humpty Dumpty back together again.
I want to thank OzAndrewJ for answering my many PM's to him since he is the real expert on how these things work.
- Dave