1216 replies to this topic

[nateman_doo]

First thing that comes to mind... wasted opportunity to match the adapter with the camera:

 

Why cant the OAG be rotated?  Is it a screw-on?  That was the first thing that turned me on to QHY products.  As awful as their adapters are sometimes, being able to bolt the OAG into the orientation you desire (along the edge of the sensor) I found incredibly handy.  Screw on OAG's you cant help where threads terminate.  On the downside... I did have to design and machine a brand new prototype filter drawer to make my vision come to life cause I really am not a fan of most commercially sold filter drawers:

 

I hope someone here with a similar arrangement can help?

[DavesGalaxy]

Hey Guys,

 

I was just wondering, do any of you use the APEX ED-L and do you take it off to star collimate?  I had a Newtonian that had as corrector and they suggested you do a star collimation with the corrector in place.  I had always done a star collimation with the corrector removed so I could get the most accurate Airy disk.  Let me know what you do?  Do you star collimate with the corrector in or out?

 

Thanks and CS!

Dave

[nateman_doo]

I use it, and it never comes off.  If that's what you image with, collimating with it on and leaving your optical train alone makes sense. 

[Dark_Knight18]

The OAG is threaded.  However, I figured out a way to rotate the OAG into the position I wanted.  The adapter that I purchased from Teleskop Express is attached to the Baader Drawtrube using grub screws.  I loosened the grub screws and rotated the whole assembly to the desired position.  I have the Apex ED-L inserted into the drawtube now and have the back-focus set to 55mm.  I removed the Askar Back Focus adjuster because that added too much back focus. Finally ready to start getting this setup out and fine-tuning it.

[nateman_doo]

Good to hear!

[nateman_doo]

under 3 hours with the Antlia Filter and zoomed in quite a bit. Such a fascinating target.  Saw it year after year and never thought to image it.  

 

 

So. Much. NOISE.  Will try and put a few days worth of integration time on this guy.  

[Dark_Knight18]

I ran into another problem with getting back focus correct. Decided to abandon the Askar OAG and Askar Back Focus dial by purchasing a ZWO 2600MC duo. It was an expensive solution but being able to remove the OAG freed up 19mm. Plus the camera came with a tilt plate. 

 

Hoping to get out and finalize the fine tuning this week.

 

Brian

[nateman_doo]

defiantly the most expensive option, but I do look forward to seeing the results.

[Dcox17]

OK all, a little help here... 

 

I see these decouplers and the results and now I would like to have one for my RC8. How do I get one? Who do I give my money to?

[nateman_doo]

Step into my office....

[Mert]

OK all, a little help here... 

 

I see these decouplers and the results and now I would like to have one for my RC8. How do I get one? Who do I give my money to?

Let us know how it works for you!

Will be another and way better scope afterwards!!

[Dark_Knight18]

https://astrob.in/pban5w/0/

 

 

I finally took my first complete image set using an RC8.  Getting this OTA up and running has been a challenge, but persistance and practice has finally paid off. The DSO that I chose as my first image was NGC 6888. Please click on the link to view it.

 

I still need to work on the collimation, fine tune the backfocus and tilt. However, I have discovered, despite the challenges and needed modifcations to make an RC system work, in the end, it is well worth it.  These OTA's really perform.  

 

 

42 LF @ 120 sec. - 1 hour 42 minutes
ZWO 2600MC Duo
Celestron CGX mount
SharpCap Pro
PixInsight
Adobe Lightroom

Nick's Plate

Apex EDX-L

 

Brian

 

 

[helicopterjeff]

Got my collimation adapter on and ready for first light. The red looks awesome!

 

 

[Mert]

Looks great, easy to collimate now

[kevinkiller]

I've been thinking of getting the new CarbonStar 8 RC from High Point.

Do you think @nateman_doo's adapter can/should be used with this new telescope?

Any other opinions on this scope being better/different than the typical GSO?

Any opinions on expected performance compared to Celestron C8-A XLT + Starizona Reducer/Corrector (F7.3, 1570mm)?

 

Thanks in advance.
 

https://www.highpoin...r-telescope-8rc

 

Edited by kevinkiller, 26 July 2024 - 06:22 PM.

[nateman_doo]

It should be 100% compatible.  The backplate looks exactly the same.  

It looks like the same exact GSO with fancier trim.  It may not need the baffle tube extension since its newer, but I dont see a single thing different.  

 

Would look nice with a red backplate.  

[nateman_doo]

Got my collimation adapter on and ready for first light. The red looks awesome!

 

IMG_1200.jpeg

Such a clean look right here.  I love it!  mount, tripod and scope all match.  Red and black accents.  Such a classy look! 

 

btw, if you guys need a new replacement cover, this is the dude that makes them.  They are really so much better then the factory.  Go right over the front and lots of fun to play the drums with  

[F.Meiresonne]

I've been thinking of getting the new CarbonStar 8 RC from High Point.

Do you think @nateman_doo's adapter can/should be used with this new telescope?

Any other opinions on this scope being better/different than the typical GSO?

Any opinions on expected performance compared to Celestron C8-A XLT + Starizona Reducer/Corrector (F7.3, 1570mm)?

 

Thanks in advance.
 

https://www.highpoin...r-telescope-8rc

 

Imho this is a typical GSO scope.

 

An add on is that it has a carbon tube, less prone to focus issues. Allthough i have a steel tube version, from what i have seen sofar it holds focus well despite some temps drops during a session.

[nateman_doo]

Cant catch a break with the clouds.

 

Touched up my collimation in preparation for the Black Forest Star Party.  It was sitting at 12% last I recall and I didnt want to mess with it, but since the weather has been so cloudy, I managed to get a short window and messed around with it a bit:

 

 

 

As seeing and guiding is important here, I got a 400 second tracked sub with a rich star field and got 6% tilt.  I really am keen to not mess with it.  

 

Hope everyone else is doing well with collimation.... and better with their weather?  

[nateman_doo]

Seeing and guiding does have an impact on the star shapes

 

 

I hope everyone gets some decent skies?  finally having another decent night.  2 in a row.  Sadly the moon is up, but its not that terrible with the Antlia RGB filter.

[Mert]

Wow, that is very well ajustes James.
Do you fine adjust under the stars?

[nateman_doo]

yup.  I find I dont really need to adjust all that much when using the spider vane mounts to center the primary with the farpoint astro 2" cheshire.

 

I helped my buddy collimate his RC with my kit and he also got similar results.  His HFD looks more like tree rings, but he doesnt have a flattener.  I wonder if I just hit the upper limit of what these GSO scopes can do.  If the more expensive RC's use better glass and the HFD would have less rings.  My last sub last night went down to 3% tilt.  Im really happy with this.  Got 2 solid nights on the wizard nebula. Just getting my scopes in line for the Black Forest Star Party.  Now if only I could get my refractors to look this good which I will try next.

[paseve]

nateman - are your adjustments under the stars just of the primary mirror to center the secondary shadow? I have been using a howie glattor to get nice symmetric rings and forgo the outside work all together.   Seems to be ok, but not to the level of precision you're getting.

[nateman_doo]

Here is my method.

 

1. Insert a well collimated fine 2" laser into the focuser.

2. Adjust the tilt plate to aim the laser into the center donut of the secondary mirror.

3. Adjust the secondary to aim the laser back on itself.

 

-never touch secondary or tilt plate again-

 

4. Insert 2" farpoint astro Cheshire and adjust primary while centering those spider vane nubbens centered.

5. Fine adjustments to primary under stars.

 

I really think the quality of the sky translates to the quality of your collimation.  I'd waste moon filled nights like these to do any kind of scope maintenance and adjustments.   

 

Also keep in mind I'm using a 1" extension that never comes off my plate.  I'm also using a $400 Starizona flattener/reducer, so maybe that will help with star shape. (It better for that price). I don't use the secondary shadow to adjust, I adjust by way of star shape.

[paseve]

Thanks for the rundown!   I was looking back at other posts to discover that procedure as well.   I pretty much do the same but I use the howie glattor with the concentric circles reticle to project against a white sheet of paper (arms length).   I find it really easy to discover if the rings are concentric or not - and can make the primary mirror adjustments at the same time.  Youtube posts have shown this method but they always seem to project against a wall some number of feet away and at that point all the circles look concentric.  Closer in to the scope shows they may not be as good as you think.    I believe that is an ok method to align the primary.  Haven't had a lot of experience with it though!  

 

From other posts it seems like the best way to reduce seeing and guiding errors is to take a lot of short exposures in a rich star field, then use ASTAP to find the very best result out of all the exposures.    That should be most indicative of your alignment quality.  No need for a long exposure.  Is that correct?