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Problem with Optolong L-enhance and a DSLR

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#1 OmerBaram

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Posted 05 October 2022 - 04:56 AM

Hey guys, i started using the Optolong L-enhance filter from my bortal 6 backyard for the last month.

 

I use a full spectrum modded Nikon D3400 and usually do 10min subs in ISO 200 thanks to the QHYCCD POLEMASTER.

When i get to edit the pictures i have very little signal and the image is very soft in general, my focus is spot on and my guiding is very good, 

If i bump up the ISO i get so much noise...

Did anyone ever experienced it?

Would love your suggestions 🙏

 

I have attached some pictures for example

 

 

 

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_20221005_125443.jpg

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#2 Tapio

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Posted 05 October 2022 - 05:29 AM

Need more information.

What optics do you have ?

What is the total exposure time ?

Have you streched your final image ?



#3 sharkmelley

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Posted 05 October 2022 - 05:46 AM

I'm not sure I am seeing the problem.  Is that a single exposure?  If so, you seem to have plenty of signal to me.  Remember that you usually need to stretch the image to see the fainter details.  Bumping up the ISO may appear to increase noise but you will find that the all-important signal-to-noise ratio also increases, so it's a net benefit.

 

Mark



#4 mayhem13

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Posted 05 October 2022 - 06:14 AM

Pretty similar setup for me but I image at ISO1600……for my sensor, that’s the flat line input read noise gain according to photonstophotos.net. According to their testing, your 3400 is about the same…..1600 is ideal and with long exposure will swamp out the noise.


Edited by mayhem13, 05 October 2022 - 06:18 AM.


#5 OmerBaram

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Posted 05 October 2022 - 07:50 AM

Need more information.

What optics do you have ?

What is the total exposure time ?

Have you streched your final image ?

 

I have a TS Optics 80mm triplet

Its about 3 hours of exposure time

It is stretched in Photoshop



#6 OmerBaram

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Posted 05 October 2022 - 07:51 AM

Pretty similar setup for me but I image at ISO1600……for my sensor, that’s the flat line input read noise gain according to photonstophotos.net. According to their testing, your 3400 is about the same…..1600 is ideal and with long exposure will swamp out the noise.

 

Never heard about it, can you elaborate?



#7 OmerBaram

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Posted 05 October 2022 - 07:56 AM

I'm not sure I am seeing the problem.  Is that a single exposure?  If so, you seem to have plenty of signal to me.  Remember that you usually need to stretch the image to see the fainter details.  Bumping up the ISO may appear to increase noise but you will find that the all-important signal-to-noise ratio also increases, so it's a net benefit.

 

Mark

 

I collected almost 3 hours of exposure time, the attached picture is stretched in Photoshop, yesterday i tried to shoot the California nebula, i got about 2.5 hours of exposure time but i couldn't even edit the stacked image because of the softness of the image and the bad colors



#8 Raginar

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Posted 05 October 2022 - 11:25 AM

I have a TS Optics 80mm triplet

Its about 3 hours of exposure time

It is stretched in Photoshop

It doesn't look stretched very much. Did you use curves at all? 3 hours isn't long for a narrowband filter.  Try shooting all night at the same object and you'll increase your SNR. 



#9 sharkmelley

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Posted 05 October 2022 - 11:25 AM

I collected almost 3 hours of exposure time, the attached picture is stretched in Photoshop, yesterday i tried to shoot the California nebula, i got about 2.5 hours of exposure time but i couldn't even edit the stacked image because of the softness of the image and the bad colors

How do you perform your stacking? For instance, are you loading lights, flats, bias and dark raw files into Siril, DeepSkyStacker or similar?


Edited by sharkmelley, 05 October 2022 - 11:55 AM.


#10 vidrazor

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Posted 05 October 2022 - 11:47 AM

Looks like a fair amount of data to me. I pulled this out of your image here with a Starnet rendered layer in Photoshop. Try stretching and processing in Siril first before finishing in Photoshop. You can follow a basic tutorial to get your base image and color correction, then try something a little more advanced to really pull your data out. Get yourself Starnet as well.

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  • na neb.jpg

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#11 mayhem13

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Posted 06 October 2022 - 05:35 AM

Pretty similar setup for me but I image at ISO1600……for my sensor, that’s the flat line input read noise gain according to photonstophotos.net. According to their testing, your 3400 is about the same…..1600 is ideal and with long exposure will swamp out the noise.

so input read noise testing measures your cameras noise at varying ISO and plots it on a graph. In the case of your camera,  the noise drops from ISO100 and then levels out at around 1600. You can shoot at 3200 will virtually the same amount of noise, but now dynamic range or contrast begins to suffer…..ISO1600 is the sweet spot for dim deep space targets and your Nikon



#12 F.Meiresonne

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Posted 06 October 2022 - 06:37 AM

I collected almost 3 hours of exposure time, the attached picture is stretched in Photoshop, yesterday i tried to shoot the California nebula, i got about 2.5 hours of exposure time but i couldn't even edit the stacked image because of the softness of the image and the bad colors

Something must be wrong, probably in processing.

 

This https://www.astrobin.com/ejjaeb/ is taken with an UNmodded canon 800D/T7i DSLR with the L-enhance, bortle 5 skies. I use 400 iso .



#13 FrostByte

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Posted 06 October 2022 - 06:58 AM

Can you elaborate on how exactly you are focusing? Depending on whether your scope can focus the deep red and blue/green wavelengths at the same point or not, focusing with a bahtinov mask may end up with the OIII band in focus but the H-a band not in focus. 



#14 mayhem13

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Posted 07 October 2022 - 06:20 AM

Can you elaborate on how exactly you are focusing? Depending on whether your scope can focus the deep red and blue/green wavelengths at the same point or not, focusing with a bahtinov mask may end up with the OIII band in focus but the H-a band not in focus. 

There’s a fringe of AP on a budget guys who swear by achromats for dual band nebula imaging…..the typical green fringe gets ‘corrected’ by the filter and produce some nice photos on the cheap. I can’t attest to this as I’ve never tried it but the images I’ve seen look pretty darn good.



#15 OmerBaram

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Posted 07 October 2022 - 06:37 AM

How do you perform your stacking? For instance, are you loading lights, flats, bias and dark raw files into Siril, DeepSkyStacker or similar?

Of course, i use DSS with all calibration frames



#16 OmerBaram

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Posted 07 October 2022 - 06:41 AM

Can you elaborate on how exactly you are focusing? Depending on whether your scope can focus the deep red and blue/green wavelengths at the same point or not, focusing with a bahtinov mask may end up with the OIII band in focus but the H-a band not in focus. 

I use a bahtinov mask, the data that i do get is in great focus, the problem is that the signal is very very low


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#17 beebs

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Posted 19 October 2022 - 06:28 PM

Hey guys, i started using the Optolong L-enhance filter from my bortal 6 backyard for the last month.

I use a full spectrum modded Nikon D3400 and usually do 10min subs in ISO 200 thanks to the QHYCCD POLEMASTER.
When i get to edit the pictures i have very little signal and the image is very soft in general, my focus is spot on and my guiding is very good,
If i bump up the ISO i get so much noise...
Did anyone ever experienced it?
Would love your suggestions 🙏

I have attached some pictures for example



#18 beebs

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Posted 19 October 2022 - 06:28 PM

Hi i noticed you have the same camera as me nikon d3400. I was hoping to astro mod it myself. Did you do it yourself? Do you have a guide available that i might be able to follow please?

#19 beebs

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Posted 12 November 2022 - 08:13 AM

Hi i noticed you have the same camera as me nikon d3400. I was hoping to astro mod it myself. Did you do it yourself? Do you have a guide available that i might be able to follow please?


Modified it. Great signal but messed up and only got jpegs not raw on the one night of clear sky. With l-enhance. No darks, flats or bias. Stacked in dss. The whole pic is blown out with red. When i used photoshop to stack it wasn't red but seemed to lack the same detail.

#20 Robert7980

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Posted 21 November 2022 - 06:00 PM

Looks fine to me, gathering very faint light is just tough… that’s the name of the game we all struggle with it… 




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