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Astro-Tech 80EDL owners thread

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#51 Scott in NC

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Posted 27 January 2023 - 10:48 PM

Scott are you planning on doing a formal write up for the 80edl vs the Televue?  I keep going to find what you did post and it seems I can never find the thread.

 

I keep thinking since the 80edl is on sale I might get one just to compare to my TS version and see if I can tell any difference between the fpl53 vs fcd100 glass.

 

thanks

Here you go:  https://www.cloudyni...100/?p=12438568

 

I’d have to spend more time gaining experience with both the AT80EDL and TV85 in order to say anything more about the two scopes (or at least anything worth reading), and I haven’t had a chance to do any further observing since that night.

 

And re: directly comparing the AT vs. the TS versions, unless you really want to support Astronomics and get an AT version with the plan of selling off your TS scope, I wouldn’t waste your money.  You won’t see a difference between the two, as despite one using FCD100 and the other FPL-53, the specs are essentially identical.  The scopes are made by the same manufacturer, Kunming United Optics in China, and there’s even speculation that the TS version really doesn’t use FPL-53 any more, as it’s possible that those specs may be out of date.  It would be odd for KUO to make the same scope but use a different glass for each of the two resellers.


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#52 Adluginb

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Posted 27 January 2023 - 11:11 PM

Here you go:  https://www.cloudyni...100/?p=12438568

 

I’d have to spend more time gaining experience with both the AT80EDL and TV85 in order to say anything more about the two scopes (or at least anything worth reading), and I haven’t had a chance to do any further observing since that night.

 

And re: directly comparing the AT vs. the TS versions, unless you really want to support Astronomics and get an AT version with the plan of selling off your TS scope, I wouldn’t waste your money.  You won’t see a difference between the two, as despite one using FCD100 and the other FPL-53, the specs are essentially identical.  The scopes are made by the same manufacturer, Kunming United Optics in China, and there’s even speculation that the TS version really doesn’t use FPL-53 any more, as it’s possible that those specs may be out of date.  It would be odd for KUO to make the same scope but use a different glass for each of the two resellers.

I emailed TS several times and each time I got a reply saying they think that fpl53 is still better than fcd100 so that’s why they spec’d their scopes that way.  I’ll have to look and see who the person was that replied to my emails.

 

Yeah, it’s sucks since I live in Oklahoma so I would have to pay tax if I order from Astronomics.  Not that that’s a lot but I despise paying .gov anymore than they’re already taking.  

 

Only reason I was thinking about it was because yesterday and today when I was out with the TS80, I noticed quite a bit of CA on Sirius that I hadn’t seen before.  
 

Since I still consider myself an amateur “Amateur Astronomer”, can seeing or transparency cause CA? It’s been clear the last 2 nights but the charts show my seeing and transparency as being horrible?

 

thanks



#53 Scott in NC

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Posted 27 January 2023 - 11:25 PM

Sure, atmospheric effects can make CA seem worse than it really is.  The night I did the comparison between my former AT125EDL and FS-128 there was quite a bit of high altitude smoke/haze, and I was surprised to see a bit more CA on Vega with the FS-128 than I had ever remember seeing before.  With any doublet, even a high-end Tak doublet, you’re just about guaranteed to see CA on Sirius or Venus.  So don’t fret that you saw it with the AT80EDL.  

 

And one final comment: The TS scopes may indeed use FPL-53 because the owner of that company likes that glass better than FCD100.  But any suggestion that that glass is “better” than FCD100 is ludicrous.  FPL-53 been around a lot longer and has more name recognition, and scope manufacturers have quite a bit more experience using it, so that’s quite understandable that TS prefers using it.  But it’s got nearly identical specs to FCD100, and I don’t think any observer or imager could tell the difference.  AP even uses FCD100 glass in their new 92mm Stowaway.


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#54 Scott in NC

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Posted 29 January 2023 - 10:30 AM

Well, I just bit the bullet and bought a Stellarvue C20 case for my AT80EDL.  If it’s good enough for my SV80L, it’s good enough for this scope too. :)

 

https://www.stellarv...0mm-refractors/


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#55 Alan S

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Posted 06 February 2023 - 06:53 PM

I'll probably end up with a SV case as well...especially as my little grab and go system is now coming together.  Funny how I cheap out on a $23 case yet dump hundreds into a mount and tripod lol.giflol.gif

 

Anyway, it's mostly together now that I have purchased a SV M2c mount for a very good price on Astromart...and after some consideration of alternatives and on recommendation of some CN members ended up purchasing this tripod on Amazon from Innorel.

 

This morning was the first time I was able to use this system and while not as stable as my Berlebach planet, I can carry the whole thing assembled easily.  Observing the Sun, vibrations dampened quickly and focusing did not induce any shakes into the system.  I need to try it at night under higher power for the critical test though.

 

The one conundrum is that it is not easy to balance the scope, as it is so rear heavy.  I have moved my red dot finder to the forward ring, but otherwise, I am glad the SV M2c mount is as robust as it is, so I can tighten the alt clutch and it holds easily...has anyone found a good balance solution?

 

OK - the picture!

 

At80edl.jpg

 


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#56 nicknacknock

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Posted 06 February 2023 - 10:53 PM

Try mounting the scope on the other side. The single focusing knob may not bump onto the saddle, allowing you to push the scope forward. Option #2, fit the scope with a new saddle which is not as long as the SV one.

 

My AT80EDL is on the way and I have the same mount. Will look into it myself Re balancing.



#57 Alan S

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Posted 07 February 2023 - 10:30 AM

Try mounting the scope on the other side. The single focusing knob may not bump onto the saddle, allowing you to push the scope forward. Option #2, fit the scope with a new saddle which is not as long as the SV one.

 

My AT80EDL is on the way and I have the same mount. Will look into it myself Re balancing.

The focuser rotates, so I can turn it so the knobs are aligned vertically and slide the scope far forward…but then I would need a longer dovetail so that the saddle was in contact with a sufficient amount of dovetail…and a long dovetail just adds more weight to the rear…

 

maybe I’m missing something, or maybe perfection is the enemy of good enough…

 

Alan


Edited by Alan S, 07 February 2023 - 10:31 AM.


#58 nicknacknock

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Posted 07 February 2023 - 12:49 PM

I hate rotating the focuser like that, but hey, it would work!

 

And yes, a longer dovetail will allow you to push the scope forward. Or bring the rings closer so that you have some space to mount  the scope further up and leave some part of the dovetail free close to the focuser.



#59 wrvond

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Posted 07 February 2023 - 01:45 PM

I'd think a one or one point five inch spacer under each ring would move the focuser knob away from the mount far enough to relieve the knuckle knocking you currently enjoy.



#60 Scott in NC

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Posted 07 February 2023 - 08:32 PM

My Stellarvue C20 case arrived yesterday, but I didn’t get a chance to get out the AT80EDL and insert it into its new home until tonight.  The case is very nicely made, and it’s reasonably lightweight, yet still provides plenty of protection (nearly as much as a hard case would).  The downside is that it’s slightly smaller than the case in which my SV80L 80/600 resides (which I thought was a C20 case, but apparently not, and appears to be a size that Stellarvue no longer sells).  As a result, it’s a very snug fit for the AT80EDL.  I removed the stock Vixen-style rail from the scope and replaced it with a thinner profile Losmandy-style plate.  It now fits a little better, but I’d be happier if there was a little more room between the focuser knobs and the wall of the case.  It probably doesn’t matter though, as this case is only going to be used for storage and for protection while carrying outside and during rare car trips  such as to a star party.  It’s not going to be used for shipping, airline travel, etc., so I think it should be okay.  My wife thinks it’s perfect, so obviously I’m obsessing about this a little too much.


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#61 Scott in NC

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Posted 07 February 2023 - 08:33 PM

51D19ADA-4634-403F-8BFB-85A288E565B5.jpeg


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#62 Scott in NC

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Posted 07 February 2023 - 08:36 PM

70DF248A-3C6D-45B5-AF26-66013740DF26.jpeg


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#63 wrvond

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Posted 07 February 2023 - 10:16 PM

That's snug, alright!



#64 Alan S

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Posted 07 February 2023 - 11:26 PM

What about putting the dovetail down? Would it close? Or, could you rotate the focuser to a position with the knobs at say a 45 degree angle, and would they clear the top bottom and sides?

 

Hearing your report of dimensions, I’m thinking of the C18 as it is a little larger inside and also would hold accessories such as my Herschel Wedge that I only use with this scope…and it is only $30 more…plus that shipping…ugh.

 

Alan


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#65 Alan S

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Posted 07 February 2023 - 11:35 PM

So tonight I had a chance to use the scope on my tripod and mount (pic a few posts above) for about an hour after dark and before moonrise.  I was primarily interested in observing the comet 2022 E3 (ZTF) which was easy to locate in Auriga.  Using my red dot to align on where the comet should be, it was nearly dead center in my AT 28mm UWA.  Switching to my 10mm Delos and the comet displayed a brighter nucleus with a wide coma and a faint tail. 
 

I just purchased the 28mm and was quite pleased with it in this scope.  Compared to my 24mm panoptic it provides a much more contextual view of objects such as M45 (as would be expected) and the Orion Nebula region.  The 10mm Delos is a great match for this scope and the only other eyepiece I played with was a 3mm just to see how it would handle some doubles…and the answer is very well.

 

in terms of vibrations focusing, it was noticeable at high power but not in a way that prevented accurate focus.  At the suggestion of a CN member, I’ll be installing a gasket between tripod and mount tomorrow to see if it dampens the slight vibration…but even if not, I’m pleased as punch with this grab and go system!


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#66 Scott in NC

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Posted 08 February 2023 - 11:12 AM

What about putting the dovetail down? Would it close? Or, could you rotate the focuser to a position with the knobs at say a 45 degree angle, and would they clear the top bottom and sides?

 

Hearing your report of dimensions, I’m thinking of the C18 as it is a little larger inside and also would hold accessories such as my Herschel Wedge that I only use with this scope…and it is only $30 more…plus that shipping…ugh.

 

Alan

 

If I had to do it again, I might get the C18 or C19 case, although those really are a little larger than I'd like.  And no, I can't place the dovetail down, or else the focuser knob sticks out too far on the top.  Fortunately, I can rotate the focuser a little, and that's probably the best option.



#67 explore19

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Posted 08 February 2023 - 02:05 PM

Sigh, joining the gang as Scott did some arm twisting, and a AT80EDL is on the way! Small brother / sister to my AT125EDL. Will decide if a boy or girl when I get it grin.gif

I’ll get the C20 for it, as this scope will be my grab n’ go scope and a nice padded case is a must for frequent transporting. Looking forward to slapping an eyepiece or 10 into this thing and checking it out!

I also have a Manfrotto 475B incoming, to pair with the Stellarvue M2C and keep this setup permanently mounted indoors for SLAP Astronomy. And hopefully, soon have it dual mounted with the 125EDL and enjoying some serious views!



Let us know how this combination works out. I have a M2C on a Bogen 3068 (similar to the 475, but higher weight capacity and doesn't go as tall). With my AT102 mounted, I was disappointed to find it is just too shaky for high magnification, even with the center column all the way down. I guess I should get a sturdier tripod or a 80mm scope.
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#68 Scott in NC

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Posted 08 February 2023 - 08:57 PM

 

Hearing your report of dimensions, I’m thinking of the C18 as it is a little larger inside and also would hold accessories such as my Herschel Wedge that I only use with this scope…and it is only $30 more…plus that shipping…ugh.

 

Alan, if you do decide to get a Stellarvue C18 case, could you please post a pic of it here with the scope inside?  And that goes for anyone else that decides to get a C18 or C19 case for their AT80EDL.  I don’t plan to return my C20 case, as it’ll certainly do the job, and having to pay for shipping both ways and then pay for shipping for its replacement really doesn’t make sense.  But it’s possible that one day I might decide to get a larger case and then use my current smaller case for another purpose.  You can’t ever have too many cases, can you? :grin:


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#69 nicknacknock

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Posted 09 February 2023 - 12:47 AM

Let us know how this combination works out. I have a M2C on a Bogen 3068 (similar to the 475, but higher weight capacity and doesn't go as tall). With my AT102 mounted, I was disappointed to find it is just too shaky for high magnification, even with the center column all the way down. I guess I should get a sturdier tripod or a 80mm scope.

Will do. Expecting 475B by end of February. I have found the tripod suitable for up to 80mm to 85mm aperture. 102mm is pushing it because of the variable height column and well, high magnifications with a tripod not matched to the scope usually does not end up well.


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#70 nicknacknock

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Posted 09 February 2023 - 12:50 AM

Alan, if you do decide to get a Stellarvue C18 case, could you please post a pic of it here with the scope inside?  And that goes for anyone else that decides to get a C18 or C19 case for their AT80EDL.  I don’t plan to return my C20 case, as it’ll certainly do the job, and having to pay for shipping both ways and then pay for shipping for its replacement really doesn’t make sense.  But it’s possible that one day I might decide to get a larger case and then use my current smaller case for another purpose.  You can’t ever have too many cases, can you? grin.gif

You can put your 60mm Tak with diagonal fitted in there, and get another case for the 80EDL ;)



#71 nicknacknock

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Posted 09 February 2023 - 12:51 AM

I use this one and it fits the scope with a Losmandy dovetail and the handle just fine - a bit tight, but just fine!



#72 Scott in NC

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Posted 09 February 2023 - 07:32 AM

You can put your 60mm Tak with diagonal fitted in there, and get another case for the 80EDL wink.gif

Nick, I thought about that, but my 60mm Tak is a FS-60Q f/10, so it’s actually slightly longer (in FL, at least) than the AT80EDL f/7.  But it’s a little thinner, so just might fit a little better if the length isn’t a problem.  I have another case for the FS-60Q though (a repurposed SV case which has room for a Tak diagonal and a few eyepieces that I use for my FS-60Q G&G travel kit).

 

Here’s the only pic I could find of my FS-60Q in its case:  https://www.cloudyni...-60q/?p=7530598


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#73 Scott in NC

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Posted 09 February 2023 - 07:40 AM

And after looking at that FS-60Q picture I just remembered that I like to keep its finderscope permanently attached, and so I’m not sure that it would fit in that configuration in the SV C20 case.  But I’ll check it out this weekend to see.  As I said earlier, one can never have too many cases!



#74 nicknacknock

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Posted 09 February 2023 - 07:41 AM

No go then for the C20. The C19 is nice if you plan on keeping accessories in it though...



#75 Alan S

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Posted 12 February 2023 - 02:14 PM

I've been out observing a few more days and nights with the scope and I am really pleased.  Friday night I observed Comet C/2022 E3 (ZTF) and Mars in the same field of view and it was a very memorable view with the comet displaying a faint tail as it slowly drifted by an ~9th magnitude star near the nucleus.  I always enjoy when close field stars make observing cometary motion easy!

 

I have not totally worked out the balance conundrum, but I have moved the rear ring forward on the dovetail and removed the finder bracket from the focuser and it has allowed me to relieve some tension on the altitude clutch so things are operating just that much smoother. 

 

Also angling the focuser knobs on the right hand side up just a little has provided all the clearance needed for easy operation without the SV handle interfering.

 

Earlier I mentioned that I had purchased an Innorel carbon fiber tripod off Amazon.  It is a good match for this system, and the perfectionist in me did note that under high power at night or zooming in on a sunspot, I would have a little vibration induced when focusing - it didn't ultimately prevent accurate focus, but I'm used to my rock steady set up with the TEC 160, so my standard is unfortunately vibration free.  Another CN member sent me a private message, the same one who first recommended the tripod and also has a SV MC2 mount, and shared a trick that had been shared with him.  Acquiring some (automotive) gasket material from Amazon, I cut a circular piece to sit between the mount and tripod - and I was pleasantly surprised that it did eliminate much of the small vibration (which was already pretty minimal).  You can see this gray colored gasket in the picture below.  I'm not marketing this as a wonder material, but as the vibration was already minimal, just placing a different material between the metal tripod and metal mount seems to have made just enough of a difference.

 

Another revelation was that I can live, easily, without using my 2" eyepieces on this scope.  This relieves me of changing tension when changing between 2" and 1.25" eyepieces.  The 24mm Panoptic gives up nothing other than FOV to my 28mm AT UWA...and my 21 Ethos is just too heavy to drop into the back end, despite the amazing views.  From the 24mm Pan (23x/2.9 deg FOV), I am most likely dropping right down to my 10mm Delos (56x/1.3 deg FOV) which is a 1.25" eyepiece. I have been mulling over the idea of getting a 1.25" diagonal to further aid with balance, but I've spent a bundle on this rig already...so need to really decide before I just act to try it out....any reasons why not to get a 1.25" diagonal?

 

Now that I'm free from 2" eyepieces, besides considering a 1.25 diagonal, I am likely to go the route of the Baader click lock visual back...anyway, here is the pic of the night configuration, as it is in final form (unless I change diagonal and visual back lol.gif )-

Clear skies,

 

 

AT-80EDL.jpg


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