601 replies to this topic

[iKMN]

Kristian

 

Welcome to the 80EDL club. 

 

My scope serial number is 00011. This has become my grab and go wide field viewing telescope of choice. I like the F/7 focal ratio for lessened field curvature, eyepiece astigmatism and greater magnification capability over my AT60ED F/6 telescope. The added aperture makes it a slam dunk replacement for that telescope.

 

The double star in Gemini you split is Castor, pretty easy pickings with this telescope. I think you did well in choosing this telescope, my friend. 

Yeah thanks for the warm welcome.  This is my 3rd 80mm class scope over the years... I keep coming back to this aperture for GnG.  I'm looking forward to posting more adventures with the 80EDL. I just sold my collimation kit and ordered the 10mm XW to go with this kit.

 

cheers

 

K

Edited by iKMN, 16 February 2023 - 11:05 PM.

[nicknacknock]

I still haven’t had first light with my own, but decided already I do not want to take a chair when observing from my yard, so waiting on a Manfrotto 475B (geared column) to pair with my M2C. I had this setup in the past with a 3” Tak and it was supremely enjoyable.

 

A bit worried about field curvature as my eyes have changed over the last couple of years, but if it is a problem, the TS flattener will make short work of this. Given light pollution levels though, my Nagler 22mmT4 will probably get more use than the 31mm grenade.

 

I also ordered a Lens Hood for it - have done the same for my 125EDL. Since the scope is protected in its case, I prefer to forego the metal cap for something more comfy to slip on

[nicknacknock]

BTW, while I have a Herschel Wedge, that is currently devoted to Solar WL imaging. Plus I plan to keep the AT80EDL permanently mounted with a regular diagonal and binoviewers at home, so I needed a front filter for it.

 

I can confirm that this fits just fine and the price is right. Since I am in Europe, I sourced my from First Light Optics, but I am sure someone must stock it in the US if anybody is interested.

[wrvond]

BTW, while I have a Herschel Wedge, that is currently devoted to Solar WL imaging. Plus I plan to keep the AT80EDL permanently mounted with a regular diagonal and binoviewers at home, so I needed a front filter for it.

 

I can confirm that this fits just fine and the price is right. Since I am in Europe, I sourced my from First Light Optics, but I am sure someone must stock it in the US if anybody is interested.

Historically I’ve kept full aperture solar filters for all my scopes and ordering filters for the AT80 and AT125 EDLs has been on my mind.

I like the color presentation of the Helios glass filters sold by Seymour Solar but, a pretty expensive 14” filter arrived slightly damaged and a request for a replacement screw went unanswered. 
In the meantime I’ve got my solar case:

 

Edited by wrvond, 17 February 2023 - 06:30 AM.

[nicknacknock]

While I appreciate the aesthetics of the glass filters, I prefer the sharpness of the Baader WL filter with the Baader Solar Continuum added to the mix. Green, but oh-so-sharp green

 

Reason I went with a full aperture solar filter is that I do not want to swap diagonals - call me lazy but convenience is important!

[Scott in NC]

I don’t mean to derail the thread, but I think it’s still pertinent because I use it with my AT80EDL (in fact, the last time I used it was with that scope).  But ever since I bought my Baader Herschel wedge I haven’t used a solar film filter once, nor do I want to.  The views are so much sharper IMO. I also love the convenience of not having to get a dedicated solar film filter for each scope.  But OTOH, if you want a solar filter that you can permanently keep stored in the case with your AT80EDL, then that would be a really good reason to get one.  I have a dedicated solar film filter for my FS-60Q which I can store in that scope’s case.  And since I don’t have a 1.25” Herschel wedge, nor do I plan to buy one just for that one scope, I’m content with that arrangement l

[Alan S]

I also do a lot of white light solar with this scope, and use a 2" Lunt Herschel wedge and a Baader Solar Continuum filter..  Agree with Scott and others that the view is notably sharper and, when the seeing allows, I see more detail than with any front mounted glass or film filter I have used on any scope.  I have hundreds and hundred of sketches I have made of the Sun in white light going back over a dozen years and would never consider anything other than a Herschel prism for white light. 

 

I did go the route of a 1.25" diagonal for night time use, and have no problem switching to the Herschel wedge in daytime. Personally, I would not want to compromise the quality of the white light view by going to a front mounted filter for the convenience of not having to change the diagonal.  The 1.25" star diagonal made just enough of a difference in balance that I was able to loosen the tension on the altitude axis just a bit on my MC2 mount and now motions are much smoother.  Below you can see how the scope balances now following all my small changes: 

 

-Moved the OTA forward in the rings until the rear ring was against the focuser, then

-Moved the rear ring forward on the dovetail, which moved a small bit of weight forward.  (If my dovetail had proper holes further forward I would move the ring a little more)

-Moved the red dot finder to the front ring and removed the finder saddle from the focuser

-Started using a 1.25" star diagonal

 

Again, it is not perfectly balanced as if I were to completely loosen the altitude axis the scope would fall to the rear...but it is now well within the tolerance of the M2C without having to tension the altitude axis much at all.

 

Edited by Alan S, 17 February 2023 - 11:21 AM.

[wrvond]

It's for pretty much all the reasons above that I have not purchased full aperture filters for my two 'fracs yet. I also prefer the view through the Baader Herschel wedge - even more so since I purchased the new Baader 7.5nm HBW continuum to replace the old Baader 10nm HBW continuum filter.

 

The decision to buy a 14" full aperture filter was easy since that scope is a reflector, the 'fracs, not so easy. However, I do only have one wedge and at least three - if not four - refractors. It really comes down to how I intend to use the scopes. 

One, which belongs to my bride, really never gets used. She prefers to look at whatever I happen to be looking at rather than hunt on her own. Plus, I'm a snob and won't bother with her Meade LX70 R5 achromat.

Another, my S-W Pro 120ED is listed for sale at what I think is a very good price but the world doesn't appear to be beating a path to my door, so I may end up keeping it and buying a mount for it. To what end, who knows? Maybe make it bino viewer friendly and use the full aperture solar on it (which I already have).

That leaves the two ATs. I'm thinking solar wedge on the 125 and Quark on the 80 is the way to go here. 

This leads me to conclude that I really don't need any more full aperture solar filters, and begs the question - how many telescopes can a person use at one time? 

[CHASLX200]

I also do a lot of white light solar with this scope, and use a 2" Lunt Herschel wedge and a Baader Solar Continuum filter..  Agree with Scott and others that the view is notably sharper and, when the seeing allows, I see more detail than with any front mounted glass or film filter I have used on any scope.  I have hundreds and hundred of sketches I have made of the Sun in white light going back over a dozen years and would never consider anything other than a Herschel prism for white light. 

 

I did go the route of a 1.25" diagonal for night time use, and have no problem switching to the Herschel wedge in daytime. Personally, I would not want to compromise the quality of the white light view by going to a front mounted filter for the convenience of not having to change the diagonal.  The 1.25" star diagonal made just enough of a difference in balance that I was able to loosen the tension on the altitude axis just a bit on my MC2 mount and now motions are much smoother.  Below you can see how the scope balances now following all my small changes: 

 

-Moved the OTA forward in the rings until the rear ring was against the focuser, then

-Moved the rear ring forward on the dovetail, which moved a small bit of weight forward.  (If my dovetail had proper holes further forward I would move the ring a little more)

-Moved the red dot finder to the front ring and removed the finder saddle from the focuser

-Started using a 1.25" star diagonal

 

Again, it is not perfectly balanced as if I were to completely loosen the altitude axis the scope would fall to the rear...but it is now well within the tolerance of the M2C without having to tension the altitude axis much at all.

 

80edl_diagonal.jpg

The solar wedge for sure shows more detail than a front mounted filter.  I was shocked at the detail i could see with my AT80ED on the sun.

[Alan S]

Yeah, it can be pretty impressive when the seeing is good to great. I find that about 2 to 3 hours after sunrise seems to be the best as far as stability this time of year.

In the summer here in AZ, make that about 1 to 2 hours after sunrise...it just gets so hot so fast...

[Scott in NC]

Below you can see how the scope balances now following all my small changes: 

 

-Moved the OTA forward in the rings until the rear ring was against the focuser, then

-Moved the rear ring forward on the dovetail, which moved a small bit of weight forward.  (If my dovetail had proper holes further forward I would move the ring a little more)

-Moved the red dot finder to the front ring and removed the finder saddle from the focuser

-Started using a 1.25" star diagonal

 

Again, it is not perfectly balanced as if I were to completely loosen the altitude axis the scope would fall to the rear...but it is now well within the tolerance of the M2C without having to tension the altitude axis much at all.

 

80edl_diagonal.jpg

Alan, in the picture your rear ring doesn’t appear to be anywhere near the focuser.  Or did you make that change after you took this pic?

[wrvond]

Alan, in the picture your rear ring doesn’t appear to be anywhere near the focuser.  Or did you make that change after you took this pic?

I think he's saying he set the ring and bar assembly up against/near the focuser, then moved the rear ring up on the bar, leaving the front ring there. At least that's what it seems like to me...  

[Scott in NC]

Ah, yes…I do believe you’re correct.  

[nicknacknock]

The solar wedge for sure shows more detail than a front mounted filter.  I was shocked at the detail i could see with my AT80ED on the sun.

I quite agree, which is why I am waiting on the new Baader Herschel Wedge to be released at the end of the month. The APM one I currently have will remain as is for Solar WL imaging and the new wedge will be used for visual. 
 

But I also wanted a front mounted filter since these are pretty cheap and sometimes easier to use when scope is stet up for night use, but want to leave everything as is and view the sun - hence the usefulness of a el-cheapo front filter!

[Alan S]

Ah, yes…I do believe you’re correct.  

Yes, sorry for the confusion…I first moved the scope fully forward against the rings…then moved the rear ring forward without changing the position of the OTA relative to the dovetail…just trying to move a little more weight forward.

[Scott in NC]

Thanks for the clarification, Alan.  I had a long work week, and as a result I’m a bit slow tonight!

[CHASLX200]

I quite agree, which is why I am waiting on the new Baader Herschel Wedge to be released at the end of the month. The APM one I currently have will remain as is for Solar WL imaging and the new wedge will be used for visual. 
 

But I also wanted a front mounted filter since these are pretty cheap and sometimes easier to use when scope is stet up for night use, but want to leave everything as is and view the sun - hence the usefulness of a el-cheapo front filter!

I had a wedge before when the sun was dead and only saw a few tiny spots. This week there was 3 very big spots and the seeing was pretty good and would snap here and there where it really showed some good detail.  Maybe i got a freaky good AT80ED as it seems to be about even with two FS78's i had in the past.  Unreal for the price at under $400.
 

[Doug Culbertson]

I just gave in to my irrational side and ordered an AT80EDL. It’s not that there is anything at all wrong with my AT80ED, but I couldn’t get over the nagging feeling that I “needed” the optical, mechanical and cosmetic equal of my AT125EDL.

[Scott in NC]

I just gave in to my irrational side and ordered an AT80EDL. It’s not that there is anything at all wrong with my AT80ED, but I couldn’t get over the nagging feeling that I “needed” the optical, mechanical and cosmetic equal of my AT125EDL.

 

There's absolutely nothing wrong with that, Doug.  The AT80ED and AT80EDL are inexpensive enough that you can buy both and take your time comparing the two.  If you find that the AT80EDL doesn't represent enough of an upgrade for the money spent, then you'll easily be able to resell it.  And if you do find that the AT80EDL represented a worthwhile upgrade, then you should be able to easily sell your AT80ED.

 

Which reminds me.  I just down the road of learning to DPAC test today, and I need to test out my AT80EDL.

[Doug Culbertson]

There's absolutely nothing wrong with that, Doug. The AT80ED and AT80EDL are inexpensive enough that you can buy both and take your time comparing the two. If you find that the AT80EDL doesn't represent enough of an upgrade for the money spent, then you'll easily be able to resell it. And if you do find that the AT80EDL represented a worthwhile upgrade, then you should be able to easily sell your AT80ED.

Which reminds me. I just down the road of learning to DPAC test today, and I need to test out my AT80EDL.

That’s pretty much what I was thinking about the two 80mm models. I have a feeling that I’ll end up keeping the EDL though.

Looking forward to seeing your report on the DPAC results of the 80EDL!

[Alan S]

I had a wedge before when the sun was dead and only saw a few tiny spots. This week there was 3 very big spots and the seeing was pretty good and would snap here and there where it really showed some good detail.  Maybe i got a freaky good AT80ED as it seems to be about even with two FS78's i had in the past.  Unreal for the price at under $400.
 

I just came in from observing and sketching the Sun with the AT80EDL and Lunt Herschel Prism/Baader solar continuum filter.  This was at approximately 1:30 PM local time (not ideal) and you can imagine that the detail in the scope was far sharper than what I can represent.  This f/7 doublet and Herschel Prism combination is hard to beat for portability and high quality views at the eyepiece.

 

[Scott in NC]

Very nice sketch, Alan!

[Adluginb]

I’m using the Baader Herschel wedge and also the Quark with mine.  I think I’ve dedicated this scope just for Solar.  Oh and why do we call it white light Solar viewing when it’s clearly green from the filter??  I mean I do know why it’s called white but a lot of newbies don’t and expect to see white when it’s green.

Edited by Adluginb, 18 February 2023 - 08:17 PM.

[Scott in NC]

The funny thing is that I’ve been using the Baader Herschel wedge with Continuum filter for so long that my eye/brain combo naturally translates the green to yellow, and it now looks perfectly natural to me.  I’ll admit that I didn’t care for it too much the first time I ever looked through one.  But it’s so sharp that I absolutely love the solar views that it provides.

[Scott in NC]

That’s pretty much what I was thinking about the two 80mm models. I have a feeling that I’ll end up keeping the EDL though.

Looking forward to seeing your report on the DPAC results of the 80EDL!

Okay, here we go!

 

AT80EDL inside focus:

 

 

AT80EDL at focus:

 

 

AT80EDL outside focus:

Attached Thumbnails

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