28 replies to this topic

[dr.planet]

Since I’m just using my 80, 102, and 125 EDLs for visual, I wanted to remove the camera angle adjusters (CAA) to have one less thing to have to fiddle with.  Based on some diagrams online of similar-looking CAA models, as well as a discussion on another thread from a while back, it seemed like an m63 to m68 adapter would be needed.  However, when I unscrewed the different parts, I found that wasn’t necessary and I could just remove the CAA and screw everything back together (pics below).  It’s possible that there’s versions out there with different threading, but if you feel like you don’t need or want the CAA on your scope, it may be an easy fix like it was for mine.

 

Cheers,

 

    Dave

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[Scott in NC]

I don’t plan to ever remove the CAA on my AT80EDL.  Like you, I don’t do AP, only visual, but since it doesn’t bother me having the CAA in place, I’m just going to leave it alone.  But thanks for posting that as a good reference in case a situation arises in which it becomes necessary.

[KWB]

Since I’m just using my 80, 102, and 125 EDLs for visual, I wanted to remove the camera angle adjusters (CAA) to have one less thing to have to fiddle with.  Based on some diagrams online of similar-looking CAA models, as well as a discussion on another thread from a while back, it seemed like an m63 to m68 adapter would be needed.  However, when I unscrewed the different parts, I found that wasn’t necessary and I could just remove the CAA and screw everything back together (pics below).  It’s possible that there’s versions out there with different threading, but if you feel like you don’t need or want the CAA on your scope, it may be an easy fix like it was for mine.

 

Cheers,

 

    Dave

I'm of the same opinion as my friend Scott.

 

Thanks as well for the info. 

[Alan S]

I’ve been obsessed with saving weight on the back end for improved balance…so while I don’t mind the CAA, I could save what…1/3 ounce 

 

It’s time for me to leave well enough alone. Or as they say, the enemy of good enough is more better.

 

thanks for the info though, there are other reasons one may want to remove it.  For example, if switching to the Baader click lock visual back.  Taking the CAA off would get you some of the focus travel back which is lost when going to the wider (Baader) visual back.

 

Alan

Edited by Alan S, 21 February 2023 - 10:22 PM.

[eyespy]

Hi Dr,

 

If you want to keep your focuser intact but avoid the rotation aspect, simply slightly tighten the three large brass headed grub screws very carefully and evenly until the CCA will not rotate and then remove the larger locking knob in order to tidy things up a bit. These three brass grub screws have nylon tips that engage with a grove and can be adjusted to change how easily the CAA turns when the locking knob is loosened. Basically, you are removing this feature. Just make sure that you align the focuser knobs level (horizontal) with the ground if using an AZ mount before tightening the three brass grub screws.

 

Doug…..

Edited by eyespy, 21 February 2023 - 10:35 PM.

[dr.planet]

There’s two rotating things on these scopes, the rotating focuser, and then the camera angle adjuster which is basically the visual back (top photo in my post).  I’m keeping the rotating focuser intact, just removing the camera angle adjuster.

[eyespy]

Hi Dr,

 

I have the same scope. If you remove the CAA will you still be able to focus in enough with some eyepieces or Binoviewer combos ? I presume that the adaptor you mention takes care of this. In the end, what are you actually trying to achieve ? On mine, I took the screw knobs off the CAA and used some very short machine screws with hex heads.

 

Doug…..

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Edited by eyespy, 22 February 2023 - 10:21 AM.

[peter k]

This is very interesting—thanks for posting. Looks like it gains you about 20mm of backfocus. Useful if you’re looking to add a filter wheel into the visual train—like I am. 

Edited by peter k, 22 February 2023 - 10:57 AM.

[wrvond]

On both my AT80 and 125 EDLs I removed everything down to the focuser tube and installed my Baader Click Locks. I haven't weighed the components, but the Click Lock definitely feels lighter to me, and I was able to move my 80 down in the rings a bit to compensate for the lightened focuser.

Turns out the Click Lock and the clamp/rotator assembly are exactly the same length, so no in focus is lost this way.

I realize I'm giving up the rotator, but I find I don't really use that nearly as much as I use the entire focuser rotator.

 

 

[Doug Culbertson]

On both my AT80 and 125 EDLs I removed everything down to the focuser tube and installed my Baader Click Locks. I haven't weighed the components, but the Click Lock definitely feels lighter to me, and I was able to move my 80 down in the rings a bit to compensate for the lightened focuser.
Turns out the Click Lock and the clamp/rotator assembly are exactly the same length, so no in focus is lost this way.
I realize I'm giving up the rotator, but I find I don't really use that nearly as much as I use the entire focuser rotator.

Screenshot 2023-02-22 113532.jpg

Screenshot 2023-02-22 113603.jpg

What size Baader click lock?

Thanks to this thread I think that I will also remove the CAA. I use an alt/az mount so I have no need for it.

[wrvond]

What size Baader click lock?

Thanks to this thread I think that I will also remove the CAA. I use an alt/az mount so I have no need for it.

https://agenaastro.c...25-2956263.html

 

Baader 2" ClickLock clamp M63 (Feather Touch 2.5" OAZ)

[Doug Culbertson]

Great, thanks!

[wrvond]

Alright, for those of you that wonder about this sort of thing, I weighed the two clamp assemblies:

 

OEM clamp assembly as shown above weighs 6.2 ounces

Baader ClickLock as shown above weighs 6.1 ounces

 

I knew it felt lighter!  

[Alan S]

Alright, for those of you that wonder about this sort of thing, I weighed the two clamp assemblies:

 

OEM clamp assembly as shown above weighs 6.2 ounces

Baader ClickLock as shown above weighs 6.1 ounces

 

I knew it felt lighter!  

Well since I can save .1 ounce, I’ll probably go this route …also mostly because I like the mechanism much better for holding my Herschel Prism/eyepiece…

[Doug Culbertson]

How did you guys manage to remove that ring that holds the CAA? I’m talking about that inner ring with 5 or 6 screws around it and the set screw? I got everything thing else off yesterday but I couldn’t get that ring to budge. Is there something I’m overlooking?

[wrvond]

How did you guys manage to remove that ring that holds the CAA? I’m talking about that inner ring with 5 or 6 screws around it and the set screw? I got everything thing else off yesterday but I couldn’t get that ring to budge. Is there something I’m overlooking?

Give it a sharp twist anti-clockwise. You'll likely need to hold the focuser body to keep it from rotating, but it doesn't take a lot to break it free. The set screw can be screwed in nice and snug to shorten it then use it to enhance your grip. The five screws and single set screw act on the knurled portion of the assembly. The drawtube is simply a threaded pipe. If you want, you can rack the focuser tube out a bit and grip it with a jar opener or nitrile glove to help protect the gear from sideways pressure.

[Doug Culbertson]

Thanks, I’ll give it another go today. I was a little afraid to use too much force for fear of twisting the drawtube.

[wrvond]

Thanks, I’ll give it another go today. I was a little afraid to use too much force for fear of twisting the drawtube.

Absolutely. Steady pressure isn't going to work. A quick twist is what is needed.

[RKeating]

I know this is an old thread, but others may read it so I just wanted to point out another good reason to replace CAA with Baader ClickLock...

 

I recently bought an AT125EDL and noticed that if I rotated the CAA when a high power eyepiece was in scope the star would move off center. But if I rotated the entire focuser it did not. I removed star diagonal and used an extension tube, and same issue.I tried centering CAA with those nylon set screws but it did not seem to help. Further testing with a laser collimator in the focuser revealed that there was only one rotational position where the laser hit center of objective. If CAA was rotated away from that position  the laser moved away from center. So I marked the best position with painters tape and star tested on an artificial star. Perfect images were obtained when CAA was at mark, rotating away from it degraded the image.

 

So I upgraded to the Baader ClickLock and it completely solved this issue. Laser collimator hits center of objective no matter how you rotate extension tube or star diagonal and star test remains perfect. And it says true if you rotate the entire focuser assembly.

Edited by RKeating, 12 April 2025 - 12:08 AM.

[Oldfracguy]

I know this is an old thread, but others may read it so I just wanted to point out another good reason to replace CAA with Baader ClickLock...

 

I recently bought an AT125EDL and noticed that if I rotated the CAA when a high power eyepiece was in scope the star would move off center. But if I rotated the entire focuser it did not. I removed star diagonal and used an extension tube, and same issue.I tried centering CAA with those nylon set screws but it did not seem to help. Further testing with a laser collimator in the focuser revealed that there was only one rotational position where the laser hit center of objective. If CAA was rotated away from that position  the laser moved away from center. So I marked the best position with painters tape and star tested on an artificial star. Perfect images were obtained when CAA was at mark, rotating away from it degraded the image.

 

So I upgraded to the Baader ClickLock and it completely solved this issue. Laser collimator hits center of objective no matter how you rotate extension tube or star diagonal and star test remains perfect. And it says true if you rotate the entire focuser assembly.

I had a similar issue with an AT130EDT, although it was the entire focuser assembly that was the culprit and not the CAA at the end of the drawtube.  I positioned the focuser at the optimum position and was able to get the scope collimated.  When I was finished this was the view through the Cheshire for Refractors:

 

 

 

That image remained as shown if I rotated the CAA around, but if I moved the entire focuser it shifted.

 

That is good to know about the Baader ClickLock on the ATxxxEDx scopes.  I had only ever used those on SCTs and Maks, and on the Synta-made refractors (e.g., SW xxxED Evostars) to replace their visual backs.

Edited by Oldfracguy, 13 April 2025 - 09:29 AM.

[RKeating]

Your experience with focuser rotation blows my theory that the CAA is added after the factory collimates the optics.

 

Early this morning Xi Scorpi was amazing in the AT125EDL at 220x. The 1.1" AB pair was two distinct little airy disks just touching with the C component sitting there 7" away. And in the same view was HD144087 / HD144088 with 12" separation.

[Oldfracguy]

Your experience with focuser rotation blows my theory that the CAA is added after the factory collimates the optics.

 

Early this morning Xi Scorpi was amazing in the AT125EDL at 220x. The 1.1" AB pair was two distinct little airy disks just touching with the C component sitting there 7" away. And in the same view was HD144087 / HD144088 with 12" separation.

The nice thing about the AT125EDL, besides how sharp the images it produces are at higher magnifications (I like to say the AT125EDL is just getting out of 3rd Gear at 300x) is that it has three trios of collimation screws at 120° intervals around the front edge of the objective cell.  They can be accessed by extending the dew shield out about half travel and unscrewing it from the silver collar at the back:

 

 

 

The two outer screws are "push", or locking screws.  The inner screw is the "pull", or lens tilt adjustment screw.  Just back off all six locking screws before making small adjustments to one, or perhaps two, of the center pull screws based on the appearance of the two small greenish circles that are reflections from each of the glass lens elements as seen in a Cheshire for Refractors.  When the circles are concentric, with the smaller one right on top of the larger one, then start to tighen the locking screws, all the while checking the alignment of the circles in the Cheshire.  It is possible to make a final tiny collimation adjustment by tightening one set of locking screws just a little more than the others.  The locking screws do not need to be cranked down extremely hard, just firm.

Edited by Oldfracguy, 13 April 2025 - 09:58 PM.

[cbowlsby]

I pulled the CAA and stock visual back off of my 115EDT and replaced with a ClickLock. Turns out the adapter is of similar optical length to the stock setup so nothing much changed other than getting rid of a bunch of knobs I wasn’t using.

[AZ_Trails]

I pulled the CAA and stock visual back off of my 115EDT and replaced with a ClickLock. Turns out the adapter is of similar optical length to the stock setup so nothing much changed other than getting rid of a bunch of knobs I wasn’t using.

I did the same thing with my AT80EDL and AT102EDL. Really pleased with how it simplified the setup, and the optical length remaining essentially unchanged is a nice bonus.

[wrvond]

The 80, 102 and 125 EDLs are identical in this regard. However, the 150 EDL is quite a bit different. The CAA has a large diameter and takes up a lot of focus length. Fortunately it is quite beefy and doesn't appear to be prone to the same problems the smaller units can have.