That is a great question markmanner! It has a long answer. It has to do with the way I teach first-time eclipse photographers to figure out the proper exposures for the eclipse for their particular camera setup. In 2017 when there were a lot of people with no eclipse photography experience (unlike for 2024), I would give talks and people were freaking out over choosing camera settings for exposure. And rightly so, because the eclipse exposure tables are hard to figure out. But I realized something from my prior eclipses about a powerful relationship with glass solar filters and this is what I teach. If you are using a glass solar filter, you can go outside today and take a balanced exposure of the full solar disk. What I mean about balanced exposure is a disk that has a relatively bright center but preserves the natural limb darkening of the Sun on the edges. So, at this point, your f/stop is fixed and you have chosen an ISO, and you adjust your shutter speed for a balanced full disk exposure. I can tell you that those same settings, when the solar filter is off your gear, will be the settings that expose for inner corona. That is very powerful information about the way your system will handle light for the eclipse! But, you don't go from imaging the partial phases to imaging the corona, there is stuff in between. Here is what you do with that information:
1. Take all of your partial phase images at the setting for full disk except for the last one or two images before C2 (within 3 minutes). These small crescents emit less light, so slow your shutter speed by 1/3 stop for these.
2. After your last crescent image change your shutter speed to 2 full stops faster than your full disk image shutter speed and use this setting for the entire bright sequence of the diamond ring, into Baily's beads, into the chromosphere.
3. Now you are at C2 at that fast shutter speed so just bracket corona images 1/3 or 1/2 stop slower and slower until you take a 3 or 4-second exposure.
4. Then reverse the process after C3.
Now, this only works well with glass due to the percent transmission characteristics of glass. This technique works great. Glass gets you in a good range of working shutter speeds to be faster for beads and get much slower for the outer corona. This range gets thrown off with film products. I've tested glass, SolarLite, and Baader on the same rig at the same time of day. Thousand Oaks Optical passes about 3 stops less light than glass. Astro solar Baader film passes about 2 1/3 stops more light than glass. For the two film products, conversions can be done to estimate corona and beads shutter speeds, but they can get you into some weird shutter speeds depending on the f/stop of your system. Glass just works so well!
So, you may already know what you want to do, and others who imaged 2017 may have their plan. This may not be for you. This guideline I teach, works for first-timers to get them to be greatly successful at their first eclipse. Thanks for your thoughtful question. Gordon