31 replies to this topic

[SchoolMaster]

Yes!

 

I would be more than happy with images like the ones you provided. But I would imagine they weren't taken using an 8SE along with its OEM mount. Judging by the responses to my post I am bottlenecked by both my telescope and mount. So would it be a better idea, in your opinion to get a eq mount for a DSLR camera and start there? If so, would I be able to get photos that are better than an OEM 8SE with a dedicated astrophotography camera?

They are taken with a C8, and the mono capture was taken on a Evolution, not a lot better than the SE.  At 500ms subs, the mount does not matter much in the first capture/

[danny1976]

Were you using an 8SE with the DLSR or were you using a DSLR along with a eq mount? 

I was using a eq6r and a dslr and 90mm refractor. For me no camera lens anymore.

[bobzeq25]

Thanks, that's all good info!

 

I am considering the setup you mentioned in your first reply, as it appears that my telescope and mount are both major bottlenecks. If I do choose to go this way do you have any EQ camera mounts that you would recommend?  

There are a number of good ones.  I personally like the iOptron ( i've owned two iOptron mounts and one camera tracker) Skyguider Pro.  $400 plus tripod, if you have a good camera tripod, that works.  You won't find anything better cheaper.

 

https://www.ioptron....duct-p/3550.htm

 

Many people like the Staradventurer.  Kind of a Ford v Chevy thing.

 

CRUCIAL.  It will take a 300mm lens, max.  Don't mess up by trying to put a telescope on it, unless it's something like a Redcat 51, 250 mm (expensive), or an FMA180, 180mm.  Cheap.

 

https://www.askarlen...class3/186.html

 

Maybe an FMA230.

 

https://www.askarlen...fma230/250.html

 

All these are basically lenses, but optimized for astrophotography.  That counts, a whole lot.  Scroll down to the spot diagram for the FMA230.  You won't be getting stars like those with a camera lens.

 

Starting with the standard 50mm lens is a good idea.  Learn the basics with that (it will take a while) and then try going longer, when you can do images with the 50mm that you're happy with.

 

This was a 50mm lens.  Click on the (required by CN) small thumbnail for a much better version and capture details.  It was something of an ideal target for the setup.  D5500 (modified for increased sensitivity to the deep red light of the nebulae, $250) iOptron Skytracker v2.  149 20 second lights plus bias and flats, stacked.  Very light polluted suburban backyard.

 

Like it?

 

Edited by bobzeq25, 01 April 2023 - 05:07 PM.

[bobzeq25]

If you want to start imaging with a telescope, scroll down to the picture of this true expert here.  That's a $500 70mm refractor on a $1500 HEQ5 mount.  He did not choose those because he had them lying around, and it's about the ideal starter setup with a scope.  Because, there are three important things in DSO AP.  <smile>

 

https://www.astropix...bgda_index.html

 

You might like the book.  He starts with a DSLR and a wide angle lens on a tripod, moves on to camera trackers, finishes up with that setup.

 

Did I mention this is unintuitive?  <smile>

 

The bad news is that it's very complicated.  The good news is that you will never, ever, run out of new things to learn.  I'm 7+ years in, and still learning.

Edited by bobzeq25, 01 April 2023 - 05:32 PM.

[BCBSTAR72]

There are a number of good ones.  I personally like the iOptron ( i've owned two iOptron mounts and one camera tracker) Skyguider Pro.  $400 plus tripod, if you have a good camera tripod, that works.  You won't find anything better cheaper.

 

https://www.ioptron....duct-p/3550.htm

 

Many people like the Staradventurer.  Kind of a Ford v Chevy thing.

 

CRUCIAL.  It will take a 300mm lens, max.  Don't mess up by trying to put a telescope on it, unless it's something like a Redcat 51, 250 mm (expensive), or an FMA180, 180mm.  Cheap.

 

https://www.askarlen...class3/186.html

 

Maybe an FMA230.

 

https://www.askarlen...fma230/250.html

 

All these are basically lenses, but optimized for astrophotography.  That counts, a whole lot.  Scroll down to the spot diagram for the FMA230.  You won't be getting stars like those with a camera lens.

 

Starting with the standard 50mm lens is a good idea.  Learn the basics with that (it will take a while) and then try going longer, when you can do images with the 50mm that you're happy with.

 

This was a 50mm lens.  Click on the (required by CN) small thumbnail for a much better version and capture details.  It was something of an ideal target for the setup.  D5500 (modified for increased sensitivity to the deep red light of the nebulae, $250) iOptron Skytracker v2.  149 20 second lights plus bias and flats, stacked.  Very light polluted suburban backyard.

 

Like it?

 

Thanks once again for your reply.

 

After doing some of my own research the sky watcher pro seems to be the best tracking mount for my needs. Thank you for bringing it to my attention. Along with that I have decided on a Canon EOS Rebel T7 with a 75-300mm zoom lens. The only thing I am unsure about is a tripod. I'm looking for one that isn't pricey preferably under $150 that is compatible with the sky watcher pro. Any ideas? Also that photo looks awesome!

[bobzeq25]

Thanks once again for your reply.

 

After doing some of my own research the sky watcher pro seems to be the best tracking mount for my needs. Thank you for bringing it to my attention. Along with that I have decided on a Canon EOS Rebel T7 with a 75-300mm zoom lens. The only thing I am unsure about is a tripod. I'm looking for one that isn't pricey preferably under $150 that is compatible with the sky watcher pro. Any ideas? Also that photo looks awesome!

Good tracker.

 

https://optcorp.com/...=3263575.8c059d

https://www.ioptron....duct-p/3221.htm

 

Both work with the Star Adventurer.

 

Note that fixed focal length lenses ("prime") work better for astrophotography.  Zooms have too many elements trying to do too many things, and star quality suffers.  They're generally slower than primes, and optical speed counts.  The signal to noise ratio is horrible in DSO AP, and that shows on your images.  To get the same snr at 5.6 that you get at 4, you need twice the total imaging time.

 

I bought my D5500 as a body.  Some trips to used camera stores got me older actual Nikon lenses of 35mm, 135mm, and 200mm, for $50-150 each.  The old manual lenses were fine for this purpose.   You don't need autofocus, and it's not useful.   I sprang for a new 50mm F1.8, that was the lens that took that image.

 

Many people have learned on zooms, though.  Their deficiencies don't interfere too much with learning.

[EdDixon]

I too started with an 8SE and ALT-AZ mount.  I already had a Nikon DSLR (I take a lot of regular photos), so that was the initial combo.  It didn't take long to find out that a different mount was needed for any real DSO related work.  After some months I got an AVX and that changed everything.

 

Once you enter the realm of AP and DSO, you learn a lot of what else is involved.  It tends to involve a lot of gear, things, and learning. Post processing alone is a big area, where  you can easily spend more time working on image results as compared to the time acquiring the images at night.  The old line about boats comes to mind:   A boat is a hole in the water in which you pour money.  AP is a lot like that.

 

There is at least one in between option worth considering…which is using a simple rotator mount with a DSLR.  iOptron makes a number of very good lower cost options here.  I have their SkyGuider Pro which works great.  Couple that with a used DSLR and you can get some pretty good images for not a lot of $.

 

It's a very rewarding hobby, but tends to be a never ending learning process of gear, techniques, software and a few dozen other things.  Few tend to regret the journey.