Warning: DPAC infestation is spreading in the refractor forum on CN. Blanks and flat mirrors are sold out world wide due to peoples believe, that this is there cure
I recently aquired a TEC160FL from a kind seller from whom I already bought a Tak FC100DC and the AOM160 f/10. I am exchanging major scopes from my collection and the TEC140ED had to go for this FL lens. And since DPAC testing seems to be the best diversion during bad weather this beautiful 160 fluorite lens fits right in now.
BTW: This very night I will have to change to test it under the sky.
After all the recent threads in this forum on DPACing refractors I re-build my set up. I already had ronchi screens (66, 133 and 200lpi) for some time and now got a 3D printing ronchi screen/LED holder, that nicely fits into the 2" focuser extension. Additionally, I got LEDs in white, red (617nm), organge (600nm?), yellow-green (568nm), green (252nm) and blue (465nm).
Compared to my older tests (on the Tak100, TEC140, CFF185, etc) where I used my iPhone to take pictures, I now employ an Canon 500D/Rebel T1i and a Canon 50mm 1:1.8 lens. In a discussion with Peleuba, Jeff B, Scott in NC and the former owner of the telescope Donadani I learnt quite a lot on "proper" testing technique and methodology. DPAC testing can be a quick way to look at a lens, but if you are careful there is a lot information that you can scrutinize from it!
How I tested: I use an 200lpi ronchi screen. Be advised that the higher your lpi the more severe the results may look. I used a white light LED and color balanced my camera in order to match the respective channels. Shutter times were very short ~ 1/2000s, due the light intesity. ISO was at 100 for white light and 200 for the colored LED. I used Pixinsight for cropping and channel extraction into RGB. However, because the extracted channels are only greyscale (is there another solution?), I also employed an online site to split the channels. This gives them their respective color - nice for viewing. But the grey scale channels give more contrast imho. I also tested with the other color LEDs and they are included in this test in the following posts, but there is not much additional information to be found there. Null images were tuned in order to give best contrast on surface features. I think this is important to point out, as one can easily shift the grating and make to lens look smooth .
Top row is always inside, mid row outside focus, bottom row is Null image. First image montage is colored RGB split channels, second montage is grey scale RGB split channels.