Glad to see you have gotten off on the right foot, looks good to me. But a quick warning: you must remove the solar filter during totality, or your camera will see nothing. Don't worry, you won't harm anything if you remove it a second or two before totality. Here is an excellent video on photographing the eclipse from Alan Dyer, one of the best astrophotographers on the planet. At the timeline 23:30 of his video, he shows how if you are videoing on auto exposure, the DSLR camera will quickly adjust the shutter speed (or ISO): https://www.youtube....h?v=D-K2YCLtaEU. Using an astrophotography camera you will need to program it, unless your ZWO models have an auto setting, mine does not.
To know exactly when totality starts and ends, you really need to get an app for your mobile phone, I recommend Solar Eclipse Timer, whose developer is active on this forum. https://www.solareclipsetimer.com/ . The app will give you verbal countdowns exactly.
Dyer also has tips for taking still shots. You will need to use an automation program to change the exposures to get the full dynamic range of the disk and its corona, today's digital cameras cannot capture all of them without changing the exposure settings quite a bit. SharpCap is what I plan on using, but FireCapture is also a great choice. You will need to do some early-on experimenting with your scope and camera settings to know what range to program in. Lots of people suggest using the crescent moon to see what works best on the corona and disk, since you can't practice on a solar eclipse .
I also want to spend as much of the time as possible visual observing with my family, but there are a couple of quick moves you will need to do removing the solar filter, at the beginning of totality and the end. I want to especially capture the diamond ring effect, which requires exact timing.