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The How to Thread

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#101 gelkin

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Posted 08 October 2024 - 08:11 PM

I like contact cement.



#102 apfever

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Posted 08 October 2024 - 09:49 PM

I only use double tape for long term on things kept under pressure. Exposed items like a badge can age and peel off with double tape. 

 

Make the badge a slightly tighter radius than a curved surface it will go on. This will help keep the edges down tight. 

 

I use wood glue (usually Titebond II) for badges on wood. These are usually small "JAPAN" badges. Thin apply with a toothpick and let it get just slightly tacky. Use very little, it spreads. Cover with Saranwrap type stuff then a buffer like a cloth to spread out the pressure, then a block, and clamp it. 

 

Spray adhesive on larger badges. Cut a hole in a piece of paper or plastic that is a hair larger than the label and use that to mask off the landing area. Or tape off the area. I'll make the landing area about 1/16" larger than the badge each direction (gives a 1/32" border all around). I don't like to be short in the contact area with spray adhesive. Lay the badge out face down or in a cupped surface (sling) if the badge is curved. The badge doesn't have to be super sealed around the edges. I haven't had an issue with spray adhesive getting around the front while spraying the back. Make Sure the badge edges are not curved up, better to have them slightly down so the edges seal. A bent up corner of a metal badge will forever want to pop back up sometime.   Make Sure you are well centered and start from one edge and work across.  This is instant down if the edges are tight but I still tend to clamp pressure. I'll use hose clamps if on a pier. 

 

Biggest factor - tight edges, then avoid bubbles by working across the badge. 

 

Super glue trick, Never apply it directly from the bottle. Put a small drop on a piece of plastic. Use a needle to apply small amounts to raised corners or edges. Tap it in along the seam. TAP it in, don't rub, that helps keep the needle from sticking. Add a little fresh glue when the needle gets tacky, get a new needle thing if the needle gets gummy. Push the corner or edge down with a toothpick or stick or whatever covers the distance. You will probably get a bead to squeeze out. Keep holding the edge down while you use another stick or strip of paper to wick off the bead. DON'T use a Qtip type thing to wick off the bead unless you want a fuzzy bunny label edge. A Qtip will activate supe glue. Super glue sets up better without a bead around the edge, this helps activate crystallization.  


Edited by apfever, 08 October 2024 - 10:02 PM.

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#103 deSitter

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Posted 09 October 2024 - 02:41 PM

I only use double tape for long term on things kept under pressure. Exposed items like a badge can age and peel off with double tape.

Make the badge a slightly tighter radius than a curved surface it will go on. This will help keep the edges down tight.

I use wood glue (usually Titebond II) for badges on wood. These are usually small "JAPAN" badges. Thin apply with a toothpick and let it get just slightly tacky. Use very little, it spreads. Cover with Saranwrap type stuff then a buffer like a cloth to spread out the pressure, then a block, and clamp it.

Spray adhesive on larger badges. Cut a hole in a piece of paper or plastic that is a hair larger than the label and use that to mask off the landing area. Or tape off the area. I'll make the landing area about 1/16" larger than the badge each direction (gives a 1/32" border all around). I don't like to be short in the contact area with spray adhesive. Lay the badge out face down or in a cupped surface (sling) if the badge is curved. The badge doesn't have to be super sealed around the edges. I haven't had an issue with spray adhesive getting around the front while spraying the back. Make Sure the badge edges are not curved up, better to have them slightly down so the edges seal. A bent up corner of a metal badge will forever want to pop back up sometime. Make Sure you are well centered and start from one edge and work across. This is instant down if the edges are tight but I still tend to clamp pressure. I'll use hose clamps if on a pier.

Biggest factor - tight edges, then avoid bubbles by working across the badge.

Super glue trick, Never apply it directly from the bottle. Put a small drop on a piece of plastic. Use a needle to apply small amounts to raised corners or edges. Tap it in along the seam. TAP it in, don't rub, that helps keep the needle from sticking. Add a little fresh glue when the needle gets tacky, get a new needle thing if the needle gets gummy. Push the corner or edge down with a toothpick or stick or whatever covers the distance. You will probably get a bead to squeeze out. Keep holding the edge down while you use another stick or strip of paper to wick off the bead. DON'T use a Qtip type thing to wick off the bead unless you want a fuzzy bunny label edge. A Qtip will activate supe glue. Super glue sets up better without a bead around the edge, this helps activate crystallization.



#104 deSitter

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Posted 09 October 2024 - 02:42 PM

This worked great. Tanks

-drl
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#105 deSitter

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Posted 10 October 2024 - 12:06 PM

Anyone have a suggestion for a aperture cover for a Vixen/Celestron C80? The original version from the 80s. TTA.

 

-drl



#106 deSitter

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Posted 22 October 2024 - 01:24 PM

Countersinking experience -

 

My tabletop drill press has a tiny amount of runout, as you'd expect in a $60 item. Not enough to make it hard to get accurate drill holes, but enough to make a countersink chatter when milling aluminum. It is far more effective to use a hand drill and let the bit orbit about vertical to even out the sink. The hand and arm act as a great shock absorber to inhibit chattering. Learn to run the drill at low speed and increase SLOWLY until there is good action. That speed is not very high.

 

-drl


Edited by deSitter, 22 October 2024 - 01:25 PM.

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#107 Ken Launie

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Posted 27 October 2024 - 02:05 PM

Countersinking experience -

 

My tabletop drill press has a tiny amount of runout, as you'd expect in a $60 item. Not enough to make it hard to get accurate drill holes, but enough to make a countersink chatter when milling aluminum. It is far more effective to use a hand drill and let the bit orbit about vertical to even out the sink. The hand and arm act as a great shock absorber to inhibit chattering. Learn to run the drill at low speed and increase SLOWLY until there is good action. That speed is not very high.

 

-drl

This technique works, but I'll add that it is easiest to get a clean, chatter-free finish by using single flute countersinks like the ones made by Weldon, M.A. Ford or Keo (as well as any of the numerous imported alternatives you'll find on Amazon or eBay if they're still sharp). They essentially carve the material away. Avoid the 3 or 6-flute hardware store ones. There are also "through hole" ones that are sometimes called zero-flute that are best of all for minimizing vibration. They both come in various included angles, with 82 degrees the most commonly used for screws. For metal, either works, but for wood, I get my best results with the latter.

 

--Ken

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#108 deSitter

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Posted 01 November 2024 - 07:29 AM

I bought a 4x0.75mm tap to make the obsolete screws - and realize I don't know where to get blanks for threading. Where to get aluminum screw blanks? I need to make cheesehead screws for a AO lens cell. TIA.

 

-drl



#109 ErnH2O

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Posted 01 November 2024 - 09:10 AM

I bought a 4x0.75mm tap to make the obsolete screws - and realize I don't know where to get blanks for threading. Where to get aluminum screw blanks? I need to make cheesehead screws for a AO lens cell. TIA.

 

-drl

Get longer screws with unthreaded shoulder, cut them shorter and then use your die to cut the threads.

Cheers,

Ern


Edited by ErnH2O, 01 November 2024 - 09:10 AM.

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#110 deSitter

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Posted 01 November 2024 - 09:41 AM

Get longer screws with unthreaded shoulder, cut them shorter and then use your die to cut the threads.

Cheers,

Ern

Yes that occurred to me :) Seems like cheating!

 

-drl


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#111 apfever

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Posted 01 November 2024 - 10:46 AM

Clamp thin board to drill press table, masonite or the like. 

Drill hole size the end of bolt.

Drop bolt in hole then clamp head in drill press. (3 jaw and hex head)

Bolt should now be held in place on both ends.

 

I've done this to grind down bolts to size, usually taking off threads for the core size. I use my drill press as a vertical lathe/mill a lot. 


Edited by apfever, 01 November 2024 - 10:47 AM.

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#112 deSitter

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Posted 05 November 2024 - 01:14 PM

Anyone try to nickel-plate brass? Such a finish is attractive and durable and a nice alternative to hopelessly pitted chromed brass, such as is often found on classics.

 

Seems simple enough.

 

https://www.reddit.c...nd_its_so_easy/

 

-drl


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#113 ErnH2O

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Posted 06 November 2024 - 10:17 AM

Anyone try to nickel-plate brass? Such a finish is attractive and durable and a nice alternative to hopelessly pitted chromed brass, such as is often found on classics.

 

Seems simple enough.

 

https://www.reddit.c...nd_its_so_easy/

 

-drl

Now I want to try it on a telescope of less than great quality. Might make a nice display piece.

E.




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