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#126 apfever

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Posted 13 December 2024 - 07:10 PM

HUH? So this hasn't been done all along?  Wait, you don't need the actual parallelogram. You will get that trimming the ends after doing the push me pull you thing, but you want to start with the rectangle as close as reasonable.  ARGGGGhhh....not well put.....OK

 

Make a 'perfect' rectangle piece. Make it so the matching edges are very close but not critical tight to 'pop' in place. You can have some slight gap for convenience. Insert the flock, it should still kinda lock in place but not be tight all around the tube. Have a little flock hanging out each end of the OTA.  Now grab one edge corner at one end of the ota, and the other edge corner at the other OTA end, and pull out. This will kink the paper into a very slight parallelogram and tighten the paper in the OTA. Pulling the opposite corners of the flock outward will expand the flock into a helix. If you then trim the ends to the OTA and remove the flock, you will have your parallelogram (it might be slight). 

 

You can twist (squish) in a pre made parallelogram but starting straight will give more contact force along the matching edges. 

Can somebody let me know if this makes sense or not?



#127 deSitter

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Posted 13 December 2024 - 07:26 PM

HUH? So this hasn't been done all along?  Wait, you don't need the actual parallelogram. You will get that trimming the ends after doing the push me pull you thing, but you want to start with the rectangle as close as reasonable.  ARGGGGhhh....not well put.....OK

 

Make a 'perfect' rectangle piece. Make it so the matching edges are very close but not critical tight to 'pop' in place. You can have some slight gap for convenience. Insert the flock, it should still kinda lock in place but not be tight all around the tube. Have a little flock hanging out each end of the OTA.  Now grab one edge corner at one end of the ota, and the other edge corner at the other OTA end, and pull out. This will kink the paper into a very slight parallelogram and tighten the paper in the OTA. Pulling the opposite corners of the flock outward will expand the flock into a helix. If you then trim the ends to the OTA and remove the flock, you will have your parallelogram (it might be slight). 

 

You can twist (squish) in a pre made parallelogram but starting straight will give more contact force along the matching edges. 

Can somebody let me know if this makes sense or not?

I was thinking of tubes where one end is either not accessible (Mak) or PITA-accessible (refractor). With a parallelogram, the resistance will force the edges together and so expansion to fill the tube and lay down against the side wall. Another benefit is no visible seam - not a big improvement there, but hey! I'm going to try this now. Must fish out the ETX105..

 

-drl



#128 deSitter

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Posted 15 December 2024 - 01:31 PM

Nickel + zaps + salty water = home electroplating. I have a brass finder barrel that will be going through this soon. Will report.

 

https://youtu.be/JSlnvkI04TU

 

-drl


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#129 ccwemyss

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Posted 25 December 2024 - 03:21 PM

I like Pelican cases. They're very strong and protective. The factory is also just up the road from me. But their many ridges and braces have a lot of corners and crannies that accumulate dust. I just got one that was customized to hold an optical accessory for the scope it came with, and it had clearly sat for many years in a dusty environment. Pretty grungy looking, especially around the handles, latches, and pressure relief valve, where there are a lot of small, hard-to-reach spaces. 

 

I'm also a bit compulsive about keeping cases for optics clean, so I set about wiping it down and trying things like q-tips to get the crud out of all the little recesses. Better but still not great. Had that look of something that was really dirty and then half-heartedly cleaned up. 

 

Then it hit me that the other claim to fame of these cases is that they are waterproof. So I removed the contents, snapped it shut, made sure the valve was closed, and proceeded to scrub it (using a paint brush, and a scrubby sponge with soap) under a stream of hot water in the utility sink. Only took about 10 minutes and now it looks like new.

 

Wish I'd thought of that before wasting over an hour on the earlier attempt, so I thought to share the tip here. 

 

Chip W. 


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#130 deSitter

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Posted 15 January 2025 - 04:05 AM

Thought I would cross post this - how to use the RA and date circle on mounts that have a polar scope with a calendar dial. There are surprisingly NO examples I could find of simple instructions, or why the thing works at all. This is actually a very hand little feature and amounts to a sort of slide rule for calculating local sidereal time referenced to the position of Polaris.

 

The key is that the inner dial should stay fixed, and it has to be calibrated just once. There is an index mark on a ring that is fixed on the RA shaft, and so rotates with it. The calendar circle is set so that your distance from the time zone meridian in degrees is indicated on the small scale E 20 10 0 10 20 W. Then you do not touch the calendar circle again! This was the part that was confusing me. BUT - the index mark itself HAS to be calibrated to your location.The only dial you move is the RA dial itself. I'll get to calibration in a minute.

 

So the general idea is -

 

1) Start in polar home position - DEC axis straight down, Polaris marker as seen through the polar scope also straight down. That is, the DEC axis and the view through the polar scope coincide. This accounts for the inversion of the image in the polar scope (see below).

 

2) Now rotate the RA circle *without disturbing the calendar circle* so that the date on the calendar is opposite the local (military) time on the scale that increases right to left. On my mount that is the top scale. If daylight saving time is in effect, subtract an hour to get the local time. Note that you are NOT aligning the RA circle with the index mark for the calendar OR the index mark on the mount casting - you are setting a time opposite a date.

 

3) Now unlock the RA axis and rotate the mount in RA until 0 comes to the RA index mark on the mount casting.

 

You are now in the right configuration to proceed to adjustment in azimuth and altitude to bring Polaris into the right place in the polar scope.

 

This method is really accurate!

 

Now - to calibrate the calendar circle we have to work backward. We look for a time when Polaris is transiting, directly over the pole. Use a planetarium program to find such a time and date - any pair will do. Let's say it's Jan 15th at 20h 0m.

 

Set the scope in home position and the RA circle to 0 as indicated by the mount casting index. Now, lock down the RA circle using the set screw, and this time move the CALENDAR circle so that 1/15 is opposite 20h 0m on the RA circle - again, use the scale that increases right to left. Finally, undo the set screw on the calendar index ring and move it so that it points to your distance from the time zone meridian. This index is only used once this way, but provides a reference for resetting the calendar dial should it be disturbed. Tighten the set screw and from then on, do not disturb the calendar circle. ONLY the RA circle needs to be moved.

 

Ideally the calendar dial should have enough damping grease so that it moves, but not easily. It should resist enough to force the use of both thumbs.

 

Note that if you change longitude, you must move the calendar circle to account for that. The index mark, once calibrated, should not be moved again. Just move the calendar dial against the index mark to the new displacement within the time zone.

 

The fixed angle between vertical and the calendar index mark when the scope is in home position, represents the position of Polaris when local sidereal time is 0h 0m. So in a sense, it encodes the right ascension of Polaris itself. Which makes the calibration process even simpler - just convert Polaris' RA into an angle and set the mark at that angle clockwise from the RA index at top center. As of this writing, Polaris' RA is 46.2 degrees.

 

It is very satisfying to know one can polar align accurately without touching a computer or phone or using constellation matching by just eyeballing it!

 

-drl


Edited by deSitter, 15 January 2025 - 12:00 PM.

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#131 deSitter

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Posted 04 February 2025 - 11:45 AM

Question - can faded black anodizing be refreshed? I have a setting circle that is not happy.

 

-drl



#132 clamchip

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Posted 17 March 2025 - 03:57 PM

I finally decided to do something about this clamchip. I held off until now because it's hardly noticeable as

you can see in my top photo. I decided to fix the problem.

Second photo you can see light being reflected from the mirror surface. Notice the clamchip is reflecting it's

light somewhere else. Where? I don't know but I don't want it to disrupt the properly focused light so I must

kill it's ability to reflect.

This chip was stubborn, most I meet have fallen out already. I didn't want to pick at it with a knife so I stuck

a piece of tape on it and lifted it out. I then painted the crater with Testors flat black enamel model paint. I like

this paint because it has a little higher viscosity and stays where you put it.

The last photo you can see I now have a big ugly spot. The clamchip is now dead real-estate on the surface

of the mirror, it cannot harm the view. 

Being quite a hunk missing I wonder if the surface now has a distorted figure from stress. I do a very careful

star test and look for any irregularities in the bull's eye pattern. If I don't see any I figure I'm ok. 

Robert 

 

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Edited by clamchip, 17 March 2025 - 04:39 PM.

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#133 Kasmos

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Posted 01 April 2025 - 08:07 PM

How to Fix your Vixen Polaris Tube Crushing Mount

 

https://www.cloudyni...ing-mount-easy/

 

Addition info

https://www.cloudyni...unt/?p=13263627

 

and more tips

https://www.cloudyni...unt/?p=14056584

 

 

 

 




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