12 replies to this topic

[PeterWar]

Hello everyone,
 

I was planning a trip to Namibia this November, but an amazing opportunity to visit Japan came up, so I've decided to postpone my Namibia trip until 2025. This change gives me an excellent opportunity to invest in the best possible lenses for my future trips, aiming for top optical quality while keeping the weight manageable. My gear will be used 80% for astrophotography and 20% for wildlife.
 

Currently, I have:
 

-Sony A7III Camera and a modified Sony A7S

Lenses:
-Irix Firefly 15mm f2.8 for Canon (used with a manual adapter)
-Sony 24mm GM 1.4 lens
-Sigma 85mm F/1.4 DG DN
-Nikkor 300mm F2.8 AFS-II (used with a manual adapter)

What I'm thinking about buying:

A- Sigma 14mm f/1.4 DG DN (for aurora and milkyway photography, as replacement of the Firefly)

B- Sony 50mm GM 1.4 (I don't know if I would use it, as cropping the 24mm GM images on the A7III gives good results)

C- Sony 70mm-200mm GM OSS II f2.8 (for wildlife photography in Namibia and ocasional astrophotography)
     OR
     Sony 70mm-200mm GM OSS II f4 (just for wildlife, keeping the weight down)
D- Sony 300mm f/2.8 GM OSS (as replacement to my Nikkor)
E- Teleconverters (1.4x OR 2x)
F- Sony A7SIV camera (if it's released and it's an improvement over the A7III for astro)

 

Any thoughts about this would be appreciated!

[Blue_Orca]

For what it's worth, I own a Sony A1 for wildlife/birds, a A7IV (modded for Hydrogen Alpha) for astrophotography, and a A7CR for travel photos. 

 

Lenses I frequently use for starry landscape shots are Sony 16-35mm GM f2.8 and the Zeiss Batis 18mm f2.8.  These two lenses have little to no coma and astigmatism when shooting open wide at f2.8, so stars in corners stay sharp, and they allow me to use the Sightron Japan Star Enhancer filter (comes in 82mm and 77mm), to reduce light pollution while making brighter stars larger at same time.  I also own the Sony 14mm GM f1.8, but it does not support the aforementioned filter and I find 16mm on my 16-35mm wide enough for most of my Milky Way shots.  

 

For deep sky, my preferred setup is a ZWO 183MC Pro with a 48mm Radian Triad Ultra filter on a 480mm/f6 refractor or the Samyang 135mm f2, driven by a Rainbow Astro RST-135E.  Right now, I'm experimenting a lighter setup for traveling abroad, shooting unguided on my RST-135E with the A7IV body and a Sony 100-400 GM, for bright deep sky nebula (<30s subs).

 

If you have not already done so, I would recommend trying out the different camera body and lens combinations on a telescope simulator such as Telescopius to see how framing a particular lens+camera combo will deliver for the deep sky objects or wide field images you have in mind.  This should narrow down on the lenses you really want for astrophotography.

 

Not certain which city you have in mind when traveling to Japan, if you are staying in Tokyo, I would recommend Map Camera in Shinjuku for camera lens shopping, brand new or used.  Map Camera typically has lower prices on brand new lenses than Yodobashi and Bic Camera, the two largest electronic retailers nationwide in Japan.  Since Sony camera bodies sold in Japan may only support the Japanese language and cannot be changed even with a firmware update, I would stay away from camera body shopping and focus on the lenses alone.  

 

For wildlife, my go to combo is the A1 and the 100-400mm GM.  I'm tempted to get the 300mm f2.8 with a 2x teleconverter for birds in flight, but my trusty A1 the and 100-400mm GM have served me well in the past, so I'm not in a hurry to acquire another super expensive lens.

 

Good luck on your lens shopping in Japan.

Edited by Blue_Orca, 24 July 2024 - 03:30 AM.

[PeterWar]

Interesting, I did not know about Map Camera, from their website I see they specialize in second hand sale too? I've also checked Yodobashi and Bic Camera, they seem to have plenty of stores in Tokyo and Osaka, where I'll travel.

Edited by PeterWar, 24 July 2024 - 08:28 AM.

[LPHawaii]

You can also try Fujiya (short distance from Shinjuku).

Nakano Station

（JR Chuo Main Line / Tokyo Metro Tozai Line）
North Exit
2 minutes on foot

 

It's been a long time since I ventured out to Nakano.  I do remember that Nakano has a few stores that sold camera equipment.

Be careful with your purchase (warranty and if you purchase a camera make sure the menu has an English option).

I just returned from Tokyo on the 13th of this month.  I stayed almost a month and the Dollar$ was very strong. The best conversion rate I have seen in years!!!!

 

Don't be surprised by the Japanese prices for camera equipment.  Most of the time you can purchase cheaper in the US but who knows what you can save based on today's exchange rate.  Good Luck.

 

LeeP

Honolulu

Edited by LPHawaii, 29 July 2024 - 02:45 AM.

[Recorte]

For what it's worth, I own a Sony A1 for wildlife/birds, a A7IV (modded for Hydrogen Alpha) for astrophotography, and a A7CR for travel photos. 

 

Lenses I frequently use for starry landscape shots are Sony 16-35mm GM f2.8 and the Zeiss Batis 18mm f2.8.  These two lenses have little to no coma and astigmatism when shooting open wide at f2.8, so stars in corners stay sharp, and they allow me to use the Sightron Japan Star Enhancer filter (comes in 82mm and 77mm), to reduce light pollution while making brighter stars larger at same time.  I also own the Sony 14mm GM f1.8, but it does not support the aforementioned filter and I find 16mm on my 16-35mm wide enough for most of my Milky Way shots.  

 

For deep sky, my preferred setup is a ZWO 183MC Pro with a 48mm Radian Triad Ultra filter on a 480mm/f6 refractor or the Samyang 135mm f2, driven by a Rainbow Astro RST-135E.  Right now, I'm experimenting a lighter setup for traveling abroad, shooting unguided on my RST-135E with the A7IV body and a Sony 100-400 GM, for bright deep sky nebula (<30s subs).

 

If you have not already done so, I would recommend trying out the different camera body and lens combinations on a telescope simulator such as Telescopius to see how framing a particular lens+camera combo will deliver for the deep sky objects or wide field images you have in mind.  This should narrow down on the lenses you really want for astrophotography.

 

Not certain which city you have in mind when traveling to Japan, if you are staying in Tokyo, I would recommend Map Camera in Shinjuku for camera lens shopping, brand new or used.  Map Camera typically has lower prices on brand new lenses than Yodobashi and Bic Camera, the two largest electronic retailers nationwide in Japan.  Since Sony camera bodies sold in Japan may only support the Japanese language and cannot be changed even with a firmware update, I would stay away from camera body shopping and focus on the lenses alone.  

 

For wildlife, my go to combo is the A1 and the 100-400mm GM.  I'm tempted to get the 300mm f2.8 with a 2x teleconverter for birds in flight, but my trusty A1 the and 100-400mm GM have served me well in the past, so I'm not in a hurry to acquire another super expensive lens.

 

Good luck on your lens shopping in Japan.

May I ask what's your experience between your dedicated astro  cameras and your Sony bodies?. I'm deciding whether to go with a A7CII or A6700 body or straight to an astro camera. The versatility of  Sony bodies for daytime use is a huge plus, but I don't know whether I'll lose too much in galaxies, globulars, and nebula (I accept the loss in emission nebula). Also, the state of the Sony drivers scares me; I don't know if using NINA or Stellarmate is realistic. I've read that Canon bodies are natively supported in NINA.  

[Recorte]

Hello everyone,
 

I was planning a trip to Namibia this November, but an amazing opportunity to visit Japan came up, so I've decided to postpone my Namibia trip until 2025. This change gives me an excellent opportunity to invest in the best possible lenses for my future trips, aiming for top optical quality while keeping the weight manageable. My gear will be used 80% for astrophotography and 20% for wildlife.
 

Currently, I have:
 

-Sony A7III Camera and a modified Sony A7S

Lenses:
-Irix Firefly 15mm f2.8 for Canon (used with a manual adapter)
-Sony 24mm GM 1.4 lens
-Sigma 85mm F/1.4 DG DN
-Nikkor 300mm F2.8 AFS-II (used with a manual adapter)

What I'm thinking about buying:

A- Sigma 14mm f/1.4 DG DN (for aurora and milkyway photography, as replacement of the Firefly)

B- Sony 50mm GM 1.4 (I don't know if I would use it, as cropping the 24mm GM images on the A7III gives good results)

C- Sony 70mm-200mm GM OSS II f2.8 (for wildlife photography in Namibia and ocasional astrophotography)
     OR
     Sony 70mm-200mm GM OSS II f4 (just for wildlife, keeping the weight down)
D- Sony 300mm f/2.8 GM OSS (as replacement to my Nikkor)
E- Teleconverters (1.4x OR 2x)
F- Sony A7SIV camera (if it's released and it's an improvement over the A7III for astro)

 

Any thoughts about this would be appreciated!

First stop is Yodobashi in Akihabara. Check total discounts, sometimes they give you special discounts depending of the credit card used. Then use that price reference to look into other stores.

[Blue_Orca]

May I ask what's your experience between your dedicated astro  cameras and your Sony bodies?. I'm deciding whether to go with a A7CII or A6700 body or straight to an astro camera. The versatility of  Sony bodies for daytime use is a huge plus, but I don't know whether I'll lose too much in galaxies, globulars, and nebula (I accept the loss in emission nebula). Also, the state of the Sony drivers scares me; I don't know if using NINA or Stellarmate is realistic. I've read that Canon bodies are natively supported in NINA.  

Ah, the dream of using the same camera for daytime and astro photos; unfortunately, for me, it has not worked out well and so I just end up using different cameras. Heck, even my Sony A7IV, just for starry landscapes, is modded for HA, versus my A1 & A7CR are not. 

 

For deep sky, dedicated astro camera has perks over DSLR.  The ability to control sensor temperature means you can do darks, flats and flat-darks at anytime.  You can replicate same temperature on the sensor for shooting same subjects over multiple nights.  This increases total integration time.  e.g., I once spent 3 nights capturing the Jellyfish nebula. Total integration time was around 24 hours (i.e, 3x 8 hours), and this brought me lots of details on the nebula in the final picture, vs. what a single 10 min sub can show.  A dim nebula such as the SH2-240 spaghetti nebula will definitely need shooting over many nights.  

 

Another reason I use dedicated astro cameras with small sensors: I travel to do astrophotography, do not have nor do I want to carry large telescopes / astrographs optimized for full frame sensors.  I want the reach in my photos, yet at the same time, not having to worry about sensor tilt, aberrations at lens edge/corners and vignetting.  Filters, filter wheel, rotator, optics, cameras, they all get more expensive when camera sensor size is larger.

 

And finally, like you said, ASCOM driver and software compabitility.  To me, ASCOM gives me to ability to goto and plate-solve, so I know precisely where in the sky the camera is pointing to, allows me to replicate the shooting conditions and continue to capture more lights on same subject on different nights. 

 

As said earlier, I have only started experimenting, pairing my A7IV and a Sony 100-400 GM for bright deep sky nebula (<30s subs).  No idea how well the work-in-progress ASCOM driver and my camera body/lens will work consistenly over time. I use SGP, am not familiar with NINA.  No idea how well said ASCOM driver would behave on ASCII or A6700 in NINA.

Edited by Blue_Orca, 01 August 2024 - 09:22 AM.

[PeterWar]

Interesting, traveling lightweight in Namibia will be the reason why I won’t be bringing a dedicated astrocamera, my staradventurer can carry the Sony A7III+Nikkor 300mm AFSII 2.8 but the total weight is pushing it, I can get round stars up til 20” but Namibia will be very dark and I want to get to 30”. I would save 1kg of weight with the new Sony GM 300mm 2.8. With it I’ll have a well corrected 100mm f2.8 telescope and a flat field in a bagpack.

[PeterWar]

For what it's worth, I own a Sony A1 for wildlife/birds, a A7IV (modded for Hydrogen Alpha) for astrophotography, and a A7CR for travel photos. 

 

Lenses I frequently use for starry landscape shots are Sony 16-35mm GM f2.8 and the Zeiss Batis 18mm f2.8.  These two lenses have little to no coma and astigmatism when shooting open wide at f2.8, so stars in corners stay sharp, and they allow me to use the Sightron Japan Star Enhancer filter (comes in 82mm and 77mm), to reduce light pollution while making brighter stars larger at same time.  I also own the Sony 14mm GM f1.8, but it does not support the aforementioned filter and I find 16mm on my 16-35mm wide enough for most of my Milky Way shots.  

 

For deep sky, my preferred setup is a ZWO 183MC Pro with a 48mm Radian Triad Ultra filter on a 480mm/f6 refractor or the Samyang 135mm f2, driven by a Rainbow Astro RST-135E.  Right now, I'm experimenting a lighter setup for traveling abroad, shooting unguided on my RST-135E with the A7IV body and a Sony 100-400 GM, for bright deep sky nebula (<30s subs).

 

If you have not already done so, I would recommend trying out the different camera body and lens combinations on a telescope simulator such as Telescopius to see how framing a particular lens+camera combo will deliver for the deep sky objects or wide field images you have in mind.  This should narrow down on the lenses you really want for astrophotography.

 

Not certain which city you have in mind when traveling to Japan, if you are staying in Tokyo, I would recommend Map Camera in Shinjuku for camera lens shopping, brand new or used.  Map Camera typically has lower prices on brand new lenses than Yodobashi and Bic Camera, the two largest electronic retailers nationwide in Japan.  Since Sony camera bodies sold in Japan may only support the Japanese language and cannot be changed even with a firmware update, I would stay away from camera body shopping and focus on the lenses alone.  

 

For wildlife, my go to combo is the A1 and the 100-400mm GM.  I'm tempted to get the 300mm f2.8 with a 2x teleconverter for birds in flight, but my trusty A1 the and 100-400mm GM have served me well in the past, so I'm not in a hurry to acquire another super expensive lens.

 

Good luck on your lens shopping in Japan.

Blue Orca, I'm supper appreciative for your advice to buy at Map Camera.

I bought the following:

 

Sony 300mm f2.8 lens

Sony 70-200mm f2.8 lens

Teleconverter 1.4x
Teleconverter 2x
Sigma Art 14mm F1.4 Lens (second hand)

I've got more than 3K in savings compared to EU prices, you don't get to be in (probably) the best camera store in Tokio during black friday every day... the real bargain were cameras as they where 50% their price in Europe but they only come in Japanese language.

I now wander if I should buy anything else to have everything covered, I also have a Sony 24mm Gm 1.4, and a Sigma 85mm Art 1.4 at home. Any recommendations in the next 72h would greatly be appreciated.

Edited by PeterWar, 15 November 2024 - 09:20 AM.

[Blue_Orca]

I now wander if I should buy anything else to have everything covered, I also have a Sony 24mm Gm 1.4, and a Sigma 85mm Art 1.4 at home. Any recommendations in the next 72h would greatly be appreciated.

Glad to hear you are having a wonderful time in Japan.  Lens shopping at Map Camera is addictive, isn't it?  However, do beware of GAS (gear acquisition syndrome), and if you have not already done so, start thinking how you would pair up those lenses and cameras you have, carry them and actually use them in the field.    Those wild animals are not going to sit still and maintain their poses while you switch lenses / teleconverters on your cameras. 

 

I recent traded in my Sony 24-70mm f2.8 GM1 and accquired a Sony FE 20-70mm F4 G and a Sigma Art 24-70mm F2.8 DG DN II instead.  The former is for travel photos with my A7CR, it's very compact and lightweight.  The latter is for shooting constallations on a fixed tripod with my A7IV, e.g., Barnard's Loop around Orion.  The Art 2 lens is half the cost of the Sony 24-70mm f2.8 GM2, but supposedly better at sagittal coma than the GM2.

 

Enjoy your stay in Tokyo. 

[sharkmelley]

Before you splash a load of cash on lenses, you may or may not be aware that using lenses recognised by the firmware on a Sony mirrorless camera for deep sky astrophotography can cause problems with Sony's concentric coloured polygons:

https://www.markshel...d_polygons.html

 

There was a great example of the problems on Cloudy Nights just a week ago:

https://www.cloudyni...irst-dso-image/

[Blue_Orca]

Before you splash a load of cash on lenses, you may or may not be aware that using lenses recognised by the firmware on a Sony mirrorless camera for deep sky astrophotography can cause problems with Sony's concentric coloured polygons:

https://www.markshel...d_polygons.html

 

There was a great example of the problems on Cloudy Nights just a week ago:

https://www.cloudyni...irst-dso-image/

Thanks.  I was not aware of the problem, and personally have not run into it on my starry landscape photos.  For deep sky on long telephotos, I have not traveled far down that road.  I did try the work-in-progress Sony ASCOM driver, but am not happy with it as it only works with APT if I want a live view, for now.  I know one can use Sony lenses on the Nikon Z camera bodies with an adapter, so perhaps that's the way to go forward, bypassing the concentric coloured polygons and the ASCOM driver issues.

Edited by Blue_Orca, 16 November 2024 - 08:04 AM.

[PeterWar]

Before you splash a load of cash on lenses, you may or may not be aware that using lenses recognised by the firmware on a Sony mirrorless camera for deep sky astrophotography can cause problems with Sony's concentric coloured polygons:

https://www.markshel...d_polygons.html

 

There was a great example of the problems on Cloudy Nights just a week ago:

https://www.cloudyni...irst-dso-image/

I wasn't aware of this, thanks a lot for pointing it out, I will let you know if I encounter issues with my lenses. I've bought the 300mm F2.8 and the 70-200mm 2.8 OSCII based on the review of the digital picture website that reports no similar issues with these lenses when photographing the stars.