6 replies to this topic

[Mark SW]

Beginner to the wonderful world of MAK.

This is my first MAK127mm from Explore Scientific (great crew) which is new to me form a former reflector/dob user.

Main reason for the MAK is double stars, then moon and planets.

Just any suggestions for a complete MAK beginner.

Observing from Colorado.

 

Thank you

Mark

 

 

 

 

[Bruce K]

Albireo  in Cygnus.... always a delight to see

[sevenofnine]

Mizar in the handle of the Big Dipper is always fun. Use a zoom eyepiece if you have one. Good luck! 

Edited by sevenofnine, 06 August 2024 - 12:08 PM.

[quilty]

yes, a perfect compliment is a short frac like Bresser 102/460, Polaris or SW Startravel or Starquest 102/500.
Then you've full access to anything possible at 4 or 5 inch size

keep the small mirror diagonal for the frac. Get a small Celestron prism. they're cheap, come with any scope but shunned by most observers, very good, still.

And the goldline ep ensemble of 4: 20, 15, 9 and 6 mm which do great in both scopes:


20, 15, 9 good in both scopes without restictions. 6 mm for doubles and Mars in the Mak, not for the moon.

6mm is too high in the short frac unless you stop it down to 70mm and maybe use a yellow filter. Does great this way at the sun.

Edited by quilty, 06 August 2024 - 03:14 AM.

[Oldfracguy]

Beginner to the wonderful world of MAK.

This is my first MAK127mm from Explore Scientific (great crew) which is new to me form a former reflector/dob user.

Main reason for the MAK is double stars, then moon and planets.

Just any suggestions for a complete MAK beginner.

Observing from Colorado.

 

Thank you

Mark

Suggestions, yes.  Your ES FirstLight 127mm Mak has male T2 threads on its visual back adaptor (yellow arrow in photo below), and also actual male SCT (2"-24) threads on the visual back itself (green arrow).  Having T2 threads allows you to screw on one of those excellent Baader T2 Prism Diagonals with the 1.25" Helical Focusing Eyepiece Holder:

 

 

and having SCT threads allows the use of lots of different adaptors:

 

 

I like to use the Baader T2 Prism Diagonals with Maks for two reasons.  Firstly, these scopes already have two mirrors that scatter a little bit of the light, so another mirror does not help.  I use these Baader T2 Prism diagonals with 1.25" eyepieces on all my scopes, unless I'm going for wide fields.  Then I switch to a 2" diagonal and 2" eyepieces.  I think the Baader T2 Prisms provide the most pinpoint stars and sharpest detail on the planets and the lunar surface of any diagonal I have tried. Secondly, the Helical Focusing Eyepiece Holder allows you to approach the focus point from one direction, preferably by rotating the Mak's focuser knob counterclockwise so that the primary mirror is being pushed forward toward the front of the scope, and thereby being supported from behind.  As you approach the exact focus point, you can rotate the Helical Focusing Eyepiece Holder a little in one direction (usually clockwise) or the other to hit the focus point precisely.  These catadioptric scopes (Maks and SCTs) focus by moving the primary mirror, and oftentimes you will see some image shift, or "mirror hop", when reversing the focuser knob direction.  That annoying image sfift is eliminated using the Baader Helical Focusing Eyepiece Holder.

 

Another thing...when you collimate the scope, which you won't have to do very often compared with a Dob or an SCT, always appraoch focus by rotating the focuser knob in the same direction as you do during use, and then a little more to see the diffraction pattern required to assess collimation.  That will automatically cancel out any image shift that might be large enough to throw off the collimation.

Edited by Oldfracguy, 06 August 2024 - 12:53 PM.

[vtornado]

look up the many threads on insulating the Mak with reflectorix.  This will eliminate/reduce cool down time.

 

Look into a dew shield.

[quilty]

Suggestions, yes.  Your ES FirstLight 127mm Mak has male T2 threads on its visual back adaptor (yellow arrow in photo below), and also actual male SCT (2"-24) threads on the visual back itself (green arrow).  Having T2 threads allows you to screw on one of those excellent Baader T2 Prism Diagonals with the 1.25" Helical Focusing Eyepiece Holder:
 
101_1063_2.JPG
 
and having SCT threads allows the use of lots of different adaptors:
 
101_1057.JPG
 
I like to use the Baader T2 Prism Diagonals with Maks for two reasons.  Firstly, these scopes already have two mirrors that scatter a little bit of the light, so another mirror does not help.  I use these Baader T2 Prism diagonals with 1.25" eyepieces on all my scopes, unless I'm going for wide fields.  Then I switch to a 2" diagonal and 2" eyepieces.  I think the Baader T2 Prisms provide the most pinpoint stars and sharpest detail on the planets and the lunar surface of any diagonal I have tried. Secondly, the Helical Focusing Eyepiece Holder allows you to approach the focus point from one direction, preferably by rotating the Mak's focuser knob counterclockwise so that the primary mirror is being pushed forward toward the front of the scope, and thereby being supported from behind.  As you approach the exact focus point, you can rotate the Helical Focusing Eyepiece Holder a little in one direction (usually clockwise) or the other to hit the focus point precisely.  These catadioptric scopes (Maks and SCTs) focus by moving the primary mirror, and oftentimes you will see some image shift, or "mirror hop", when reversing the focuser knob direction.  That annoying image sfift is eliminated using the Baader Helical Focusing Eyepiece Holder.
 
Another thing...when you collimate the scope, which you won't have to do very often compared with a Dob or an SCT, always appraoch focus by rotating the focuser knob in the same direction as you do during use, and then a little more to see the diffraction pattern required to assess collimation.  That will automatically cancel out any image shift that might be large enough to throw off the collimation.

I agree specially at preferring a small prism over a large mirror, except one remark

the last focus turn should always push the mirror ahead. When I remember well the ES Mak turns opposite to all other scopes which means the last turn should be cw. No warranty for that easy to test though.
What direction do you have to turn when changing focus from the garden to the star? that's the last turn direction

Edited by quilty, 07 August 2024 - 03:52 AM.