6 replies to this topic

[JoaoAstro]

Hi!

First I apologize if I'm in the wrong place.

I want to astromod my canon 850D(T8i) but i have a few questions.

Can i have a astronomik glass with LFP1 filter together? If yes, i will need to reajust the sensor?
My friend warned me to not use baader cause they suck and use astronomik instead

If i just remove the LFP2 filter, can i still use my lens?

 
In the future i will use my canon with a refractor telescope and a rikinon 135mm, but for now i just have kit lens like 18-55mm and the 75-300mm.

And i still want to have AF, the auto cleaning sensor and day photography with a custom WB

 

Thank you for your time!

Edited by JoaoAstro, 05 August 2024 - 06:21 PM.

[archiebald]

Hi!

First I apologize if I'm in the wrong place.

I want to astromod my canon 850D(T8i) but i have a few questions.

Can i have a astronomik glass with LFP1 filter together? If yes, i will need to reajust the sensor?
My friend warned me to not use baader cause they suck and use astronomik instead

If i just remove the LFP2 filter, can i still use my lens?

 
In the future i will use my canon with a refractor telescope and a rikinon 135mm, but for now i just have kit lens like 18-55mm and the 75-300mm.

And i still want to have AF, the auto cleaning sensor and day photography with a custom WB

 

Thank you for your time!

Using various internet resources, I successfully astro-modded my Canon 60D a couple of years ago.

 

In my case I only removed the LFP2(?) filter, did not add anything back in.  People will tell you that this will mess up your AF, however there is a simple workaround (if your sensor mounts the same as mine did)

 

The sensor is mounted by three sprung screws so it can be adjusted by a technician individually to calibrate the autofocus.  Since you are removing a known thickness of glass, it is possible to compensate by resetting the sensor to a slightly different position.  Most important is to make a very careful measure of the current sensor "height" and when finishing up, adjust those screws to a position 1/3 of the thickness of the glass that was removed (sorry - don't remember).

 

After reassembly, sensor cleaning and my autofocus worked perfectly (confirmed with two different lenses).  As you mentioned, a custom WB can virtually restore terrestrial shooting.

 

You need to close yourself off without disturbance in a very dust free location for maybe 2-4 hours and don't rush things.
 

[PIEJr]

I donno, I've never really understood why folks want to take a good terrestrial camera and mod it for astronomy work instead of just getting the right tool for the job.

A dedicated Astro Camera with the right stuff for the job.

 

Just the other day I was checking my ASI2600 MC Pro on a ridge about 2 miles (guesstimate) from my backyard. Doing a prefocus before dark.

I was pleasantly surprised how well it worked in the daylight. Cooled to 0°C in 100°F heat.

 

I've used my DSLR for comet work with a 150-600mm Tamron telephoto. But never really wanted to modify it.

Ever consider just getting an Astro Camera instead?

Edited by PIEJr, 05 August 2024 - 11:47 PM.

[Zambiadarkskies]

I donno, I've never really understood why folks want to take a good terrestrial camera and mod it for astronomy work instead of just getting the right tool for the job.

A dedicated Astro Camera with the right stuff for the job.

 

Just the other day I was checking my ASI2600 MC Pro on a ridge about 2 miles (guesstimate) from my backyard. Doing a prefocus before dark.

I was pleasantly surprised how well it worked in the daylight. Cooled to 0°C in 100°F heat.

 

I've used my DSLR for comet work with a 150-600mm Tamron telephoto. But never really wanted to modify it.

Ever consider just getting an Astro Camera instead?

I took a perfectly good 6DMkII and had it modded. Sometimes all one wants to do is use a static tripod or a tracker and a DSLR and a lens.  No cables, computers, batteries/power station.  Tonight I am planning some MW shots from an island in the dark on the Kafue river as we are doing a sleep out with friends.  The last thing I want to do is have to bring "stuff".  I just want a travel tripod, my 6D, 28mm lens and maybe a battery pack to do a big timelapse.  Sometimes for certain jobs less is more. 

 

The 6D was hardly getting use after getting an R6.  It was purely a backup body.  The increased Ha response is handy.  Modding it made a lot of sense to me.  

Edited by Zambiadarkskies, 06 August 2024 - 04:44 AM.

[archiebald]

I took a perfectly good 6DMkII and had it modded. Sometimes all one wants to do is use a static tripod or a tracker and a DSLR and a lens.  No cables, computers, batteries/power station.  Tonight I am planning some MW shots from an island in the dark on the Kafue river as we are doing a sleep out with friends.  The last thing I want to do is have to bring "stuff".  I just want a travel tripod, my 6D, 28mm lens and maybe a battery pack to do a big timelapse.  Sometimes for certain jobs less is more. 

 

The 6D was hardly getting use after getting an R6.  It was purely a backup body.  The increased Ha response is handy.  Modding it made a lot of sense to me.  

...and a lot cheaper to get started too.  Camera, lens, tracker....done (basically)

[michael8554]

If you remove LPF#2 and don't adjust the Torx screws, autofocus will be wrong, but lenses (and a telescope) can be manually focused with LiveView.

 

Adding the Baader glass will correct for the removal of LPF#2.

 

I've not heard that Baader "sucks".

[bbasiaga]

Baader sucks now?   That was always the one people wanted back when i had a camera modded.  I thought I heard they stopped making camera glass replacement filters anyway.   

 

You can buy Ha mod glass from LIfepixel and Kolari as well, both of which are common sources and well regarded.