42 replies to this topic

[Anarken]

Hi All!

 

I apologize in advance for the many questions!  I've joined a local astronomy club many months ago whom are awesome, have been doing visual observation and have been wanting to do astrophotography for some time.  I've tried to do quite a bit of reading and research, but still have some lingering questions.  I do regular photography and my wife is a professional photographer, so this has really just piqued my interest to no end.  With that said, I am brand spanking new to this and wanting to get started. My primary targets are nebula and galaxies to start.  Would love to be able to capture comets or star clusters later, but my immediate focus is more in the nebula and galaxies as the colors and tones just blow me away (Orion, Running Man, Bode's, Pinwheel, Witch Head etc etc).

 

Would anyone be kind enough to please cross-check my shopping list and let me know before I make a crazy expensive purchase and regret it?  I'll likely be doing it in phases over the next few months and worry about compatibility of the system as I build it out so I don't make a costly mistake.  I'm really looking to build a great, portable first system that I can grow my way into over the next several years.  This will all be controlled via an iPad Pro.  I know I have a lot to learn and look forward to it!

1. Is there anything here that I have that is not compatible, or should be swapped out?
2. Is there anything missing that I haven't included? Lots of USB cables?
3. What is the difference between the three filters I have selected and their use case?  I'm assuming type of target? Do I need them all? Primary starting goal is galaxy and nebulae. 
4. Is the camera good to have as ASP-C versus full-frame (I shoot full frame in standard photography) and is it compatible with the scope?
5. Do I need a field flatener or anything else to run this setup properly?
6. What size dew band does the scope take and where can I find that info?
7. Filter wheel works with mounted and unmounted.  Is it better to get mounted, or unmounted filters?
8. Any need to worry about light pollution filters with a monochrome camera if I want to image from my home (bortle 6).

 

Shopping List:

 

• ZWO AM5N with tripod
• ZWO 200mm extension pier
• ZWO 12v plug / power brick x1
• ZWO ASIAIR Plus 256gb
• Two high-speed 256gb flash drives
• Askar FRA400 f/5.6
• ZWO ASI2600MM DUO APS-C (Does this perform as well as a camera + guide scope setup?)
• ZWO Narrowband SHO (S-II, H-a & O-III) unmounted 31mm filter
• ZWO Premium LRGB Imaging Filter Set - 31mm Round Unmounted
• Is it better to just get a single set of Optolong 2" Filter Set with LRGB, H-Alpha, SII, and OIII Filters over the ones above (albeit much more expensive at $1k)?
• ZWO 8-Position Electronic Filter Wheel for 1.25" or 31mm Filters
• ZWO Electronic Auto-Focuser (5V Version)
• ZWO EAF Automatic Focuser Temperature Sensor
• Jackery 3600 watt 1500wh portable battery (future purchase for use at dark sites)

I sincerely appreciate everyones input, insight and time.  Really looking forward to joining you all soon!

 

Edited additions from feedback received:

• ZWO ASI2600MM Pro APS-C CMOS Monochrome Cooled Astronomy Camera Kit with 36mm EFW7, OAG-L & 36mm LRGBSHO Filters
• ZWO 256GB ASIAIR Plus Wi-Fi Camera Controller Kit with ASI120MM-Mini Camera & 30mm f/4 Mini Guide Scope

Edited by Anarken, 15 October 2024 - 08:26 PM.

[charles.tremblay.darveau]

The 36mm filter will work for the regular 2600mm, but not the duo. Honestly I would just go for either a separate guide scope with 120mm or an OAG with the 220mm. The 2600mc duo is great because you only need a few filters which is not too expensive. The jump to 2” filter is much more expensive in mono. The zwo filter are fine for a starter set. If you want to upgrade for the the antlia 3nm set. Otherwise the 2600 is a great sensor for that scope.

FRA400 will give you fairly large FOV which is good for larger objects. Try to use astronomy.tool for FOV simulator

Edited by charles.tremblay.darveau, 14 October 2024 - 09:55 PM.

[joshman]

for starters, with that sensor you'll need 36mm unmounted filters. minimum.

You also need a fast guiding cadence with the SWG mounts, so you might have trouble getting enough stars with the Duo through NB filters. I've not used the Duo, so i can't speak from experience. I would be concerned that you might run into issues if you eve want to upgrade to better/narrower filters

 

But to Answer your questions in order:

1. It all looks pretty good, see my main points above for potential imcompatibilities
2. Definitely good quality USB Cables.
3. Filters allow only certain bandwidths (colours) of light to pass through and be recorded by the sensor. The standard set of Filters are Luminance, Red, Green, Blue, Hydrogen Alpha, Oxygen3 and Sulphur2. The 1st 4 in that list are "Broadband" filters, in that they are specifically used to mimic the visible spectrum of light. Specifically the red/green/blue filter are for colour information, the Luminance filter is for detail information. the Hydrogen(Ha), Oxygen3 (O3) and Sulphur2(S2) filters are "Narrowband" filters, in that they only let very narrow bandwidths of light through. these are tuned to the very specific bandwidths of ionised gas. Some targets will be stronger in one of those wavelengths more than others, Hydrogen alpha is just about everwhere you look in the sky, and is mostly responsible for all the red you see in images. O3 will be very strong in planetary nebula, and S2 is out there, it seems to mostly live on the edge of the Ha signal
   For your starting Goal, you can get away with just the LRGB set of Filters, they will get you on your way and creating images. The narrowband filters can come later.
4. APS-C is perfectly fine for Astrophotography. Because we're shooting at "infinity" The argument for Full-frame doesn't make as much sense as terrestrial photography. besides, then you need to be purchasing optics that can support full frame. If you thought the demand for high quality optics in terrestrial photography was big... wait until you really dive into telescopes, high-quality Lens' (Canon L, etc) don't come close to the optical quality of a good telescope.
5. That scope is a great choice to begin with. It is a "Petzval" design, which basically means that it has a built in flattener and won;t need any optical accessories to start imaging. You'll be limited in the Galaxies you can get with it, but you'll have a lot of fun with the nebula.
6. The dew band just needs to go around the barrel of the scope. bands are usually measured in the diameter of scope they can go around, and band that can fit a 80-ish mm telescope should work.
7. Again, see my points right at the top. you'll need to go with 36mm unmounted at a minimum for the APSC sensor, otherwise you'll be jumping up to a 2" mounted solution (which is very expensive)
8. No need to worry about Light Pollution filters. stacking filters is a bad idea anyway. Given your bortle, you might be better off with Narrowband filters first.

 

It's a great journey, enjoy it, don't let the set-backs get you down (and there will be setbacks). Persevere and the rewards can be fantastic.

[Oort Cloud]

I agree with Charles; everything looks good except using a mono duo. Just get a separate guidescope and cheap guide camera at that point. You do not need a fancy guiding solution for an FRA400. I'd skip the OAG and just do a small 32mm guidescope mounted onto the FRA400.

[jml79]

As has been pointed out, the 2600 requires 36mm filters. The duo requires 2" so best to either add an OAG (standard size, not -L is fine for the FRA400) and ASI 120m or a guidescope (small 30mm is fine for the FRA400) and an ASI 120 and buy the less expensive standard ASI2600MM. With the 36mm filters you will need the ZWO 36mmx7 filter wheel but it pairs perfectly with the ASI2600mm camera, directly bolting to the camera. The ZWO EAF has an internal temp sensor that is perfectly good enough to use to trigger a re-focus. No need to buy the external sensor at all. You won't use it.

 

Personally I would go with the OAG instead of a guide scope simply to avoid the second dew heater that the guide scope needs. It is slightly more expensive and finicky to set up but once it's working the OAG is great and problem free. The only "upgrade" I would consider is buying Antlia V-Pro LRGB and either the 4.5nm or 3nm filters if you have the budget. The ZWO are perfectly fine, I have 2 sets but buying once beats spending on the ZWO set and then upgrading later. Totally an optional decision for both the guide setup and the filters. The less expensive option will work just fine and the difference in the upgrade is in the less than 10% range.

[charles.tremblay.darveau]

One more comment, the FOV of the FRA400 may be too large for detailed views of galaxies (you will detect them but most will look like 1 tiny dot). It would be good for larger galaxy clusters or composition of multiple galaxies. Most of the time people will get two scopes, 1 for widefield view and 1 for longer focal length detailed shots. It's probably a good idea to start widefield with the FRA400 which is more forgiving on tracking. The AM5 is an excellent mount choice and will work fine if you decide to add an edge 9.25" or 4" APO.

[Ar3s701]

I agree with most in saying that the 2600MM Duo is probably not a good choice and honestly I wouldn't want my guide camera behind narrowband filters. I also think that the 2" filters work better with a larger APS-C size sensor. It is what I use with my IMX 571 sensor cameras (Player One Poseidon M-Pro and ToupTek OSC).

 

The telescope you chose is a nice one with what I believe to be a great focal length for nebulas and for learning in general. You will be able to get the majority of popular targets (remember they are usually pretty big) and an APS-C size sensor gives you a great field of view. You can also get some galaxies as well. Here is M101 at 350mm focal length:

 

 

Now I get that your entire ecosystem is ZWO and I get the convenience, but I personally don't like being backed into a corner when it comes to compatibility. A mini-pc with NINA is also a very strong option and will let you use basically any equipment you want. I control mine with my ipad while I'm out at the telescope, then my PC when I am in the house.

 

Lastly, I didn't see you mention processing software. If you have the funds, I highly recommend Pixinsight and the RC Astro addons (BlurXterminator. NoiseXterminator, and StarXterminator) as the most comprehensive tool set to processing your images. You can go quite far with the free options too like Siril and gimp.

Whatever you choose, I hope you enjoy the hobby.

Clear skies

Edited by Ar3s701, 15 October 2024 - 02:02 PM.

[Oort Cloud]

As has been pointed out, the 2600 requires 36mm filters. The duo requires 2" so best to either add an OAG (standard size, not -L is fine for the FRA400) and ASI 120m or a guidescope (small 30mm is fine for the FRA400) and an ASI 120 and buy the less expensive standard ASI2600MM. With the 36mm filters you will need the ZWO 36mmx7 filter wheel but it pairs perfectly with the ASI2600mm camera, directly bolting to the camera. The ZWO EAF has an internal temp sensor that is perfectly good enough to use to trigger a re-focus. No need to buy the external sensor at all. You won't use it.

Personally I would go with the OAG instead of a guide scope simply to avoid the second dew heater that the guide scope needs. It is slightly more expensive and finicky to set up but once it's working the OAG is great and problem free. The only "upgrade" I would consider is buying Antlia V-Pro LRGB and either the 4.5nm or 3nm filters if you have the budget. The ZWO are perfectly fine, I have 2 sets but buying once beats spending on the ZWO set and then upgrading later. Totally an optional decision for both the guide setup and the filters. The less expensive option will work just fine and the difference in the upgrade is in the less than 10% range.

I've never put a heater on my 32mm guidescope, and never had dew on it, either. My SCTs, OTOH, will dew up if I look at them funny. I live in a fairly humid area too; I'd say dew should only be a problem on the guidescope if you live in a rainforest or somewhere else that is very very humid. I am in NJ, USA, for reference. If OP is in Florida or Louisiana, they might need a 2nd heater for the guidescope.

[Ar3s701]

I've never put a heater on my 32mm guidescope, and never had dew on it, either. My SCTs, OTOH, will dew up if I look at them funny. I live in a fairly humid area too; I'd say dew should only be a problem on the guidescope if you live in a rainforest or somewhere else that is very very humid. I am in NJ, USA, for reference. If OP is in Florida or Louisiana, they might need a 2nd heater for the guidescope.

I use a 50mm guide scope and I use a dew strap on it. I live out by the ocean and I find it necessary. Then again, a dew strap is fairly cheap so it doesn't hurt to be protected.

[Oort Cloud]

I use a 50mm guide scope and I use a dew strap on it. I live out by the ocean and I find it necessary. Then again, a dew strap is fairly cheap so it doesn't hurt to be protected.

Yeah, it's heavily dependent upon local conditions. I'd try without, and then buy one if it turns out its needed.

[Anarken]

I sincerely appreciate all of the replies you all shared, thank you so much!

 

I've made updates to my list above to cross off the items suggested and added what was recommended.  Anything else I am missing or anything that I got wrong?  It looks like the 2600MM has a bundle with filters and filter wheel, so assume that is probably the best way to go. 

 

Also, I am not as familiar with what an OAG is, or how that differs from a guide scope.  I am assuming off-axis guidance?  

 

Also, I appreciate the feedback on the scope.  I went with this focal range to try and capture the popular targets and get started as I imagined a lower focal range is probably a little more forgiving.  If you wanted to shoot deep galaxies, what type of scope / focal range is recommended to capture that (in the future of course).

 

For reference on the dew heater for the guide scope, I am in Illinois, so unfortunately or fortunately not in the tropics.

 

Regarding software, I imagine I will likely use PixInsight, but haven't ventured that far.  The $300 euros, is that a one-time price, or annual subscription?

 

Also, with the auto-focuser, do you still need a bahtinov mask? Do I need a finder plate to attach the guide scope?

 

Lastly, with the dew band, they are all in inches from what I am seeing.  What should I look for with that scope? I know 80mm was suggested but that is a bit over 3" and most bands I'm seeing are either 3" or 4".  Is it better to get a little larger here?  Any brands that out perform the others, or are they all about the same?  Also seeing most dew heaters with RCA jacks.  Pardon my ignorance here, but where does that plug into on the setup, or am I missing a component?

 

Thank you all again!!

Edited by Anarken, 15 October 2024 - 09:46 PM.

[jml79]

I sincerely appreciate all of the replies you all shared, thank you so much!

 

I've made updates to my list above to cross off the items suggested and added what was recommended.  Anything else I am missing or anything that I got wrong?  It looks like the 2600MM has a bundle with filters and filter wheel, so assume that is probably the best way to go. 

 

Also, I am not as familiar with what an OAG is, or how that differs from a guide scope.  I am assuming off-axis guidance?  

 

Also, I appreciate the feedback on the scope.  I went with this focal range to try and capture the popular targets and get started as I imagined a lower focal range is probably a little more forgiving.  If you wanted to shoot deep galaxies, what type of scope / focal range is recommended to capture that (in the future of course).

 

For reference on the dew heater for the guide scope, I am in Illinois, so unfortunately or fortunately not in the tropics.

 

Regarding software, I imagine I will likely use PixInsight, but haven't ventured that far.  The $300 euros, is that a one-time price, or annual subscription?

 

Also, with the auto-focuser, do you still need a bahtinov mask? Do I need a finder plate to attach the guide scope?

 

Lastly, with the dew band, they are all in inches from what I am seeing.  What should I look for with that scope? I know 80mm was suggested but that is a bit over 3" and most bands I'm seeing are either 3" or 4".  Is it better to get a little larger here?  Any brands that out perform the others, or are they all about the same?  Also seeing most dew heaters with RCA jacks.  Pardon my ignorance here, but where does that plug into on the setup, or am I missing a component?

 

Thank you all again!!

The OAG is an off axis guider and it looks like the kit you found includes the OAG-L so problem solved there, and the ASIAir kit includes the guide camera (can be used with OAG or guide scope) and a perfectly good 30mm guide scope. So by accident you get both and can try them and see.

 

-A 12v dew heater plugs into and is controlled by the ASIAir. I don't use the ASIAir so that's as much as I know.

-Pixinsight is a one time purchase.

-You do not need the Bahtinov mask with an EAF but it is handy to have around, especially if you approach the rig one step at a time and start off with just the camera and slowly add complexity.

-Guide scope should attach to the finder bracket that is already on the scope. So nothing to buy there.

-I have no advice on dew heater brands. I have SVBony ones and super cheap chinese knock offs so not enough experience with them to really have an opinion. I would buy the SVBony ones again, they have worked.

-Typical galaxy rigs with an ASI 2600 would be between 1000mm and 1400mm of focal length. So much larger refractor, mid sized SCT's and RC scopes. Not beginner friendly. You'll know it's time for a galaxy rig when you start researching all 3 and debating back and forth on which one is the best one for your purpose.

[Anarken]

The OAG is an off axis guider and it looks like the kit you found includes the OAG-L so problem solved there, and the ASIAir kit includes the guide camera (can be used with OAG or guide scope) and a perfectly good 30mm guide scope. So by accident you get both and can try them and see.

 

-A 12v dew heater plugs into and is controlled by the ASIAir. I don't use the ASIAir so that's as much as I know.

-Pixinsight is a one time purchase.

-You do not need the Bahtinov mask with an EAF but it is handy to have around, especially if you approach the rig one step at a time and start off with just the camera and slowly add complexity.

-Guide scope should attach to the finder bracket that is already on the scope. So nothing to buy there.

-I have no advice on dew heater brands. I have SVBony ones and super cheap chinese knock offs so not enough experience with them to really have an opinion. I would buy the SVBony ones again, they have worked.

-Typical galaxy rigs with an ASI 2600 would be between 1000mm and 1400mm of focal length. So much larger refractor, mid sized SCT's and RC scopes. Not beginner friendly. You'll know it's time for a galaxy rig when you start researching all 3 and debating back and forth on which one is the best one for your purpose.

Thanks for the reply!  Pardon my ignorance here, but does a camera connect into the OAG-L and it is simply a different method of auto-guiding, or is it a manual viewfinder to get situated with?  Sorry for the dumb question here!  It doesn't appear to have any magnification, so unsure if that is more accurate or less than a guide scope?  

 

Edit - Found a video, so looks like the camera connects directly into the top of the OAG-L and guides that way.  Does the OAG-L not interfere with the main camera at all?

 

Oh man, what a rabbit hole I've found in this hobby!

Edited by Anarken, 15 October 2024 - 10:32 PM.

[charles.tremblay.darveau]

Thanks for the reply! Pardon my ignorance here, but does a camera connect into the OAG-L and it is simply a different method of auto-guiding, or is it a manual viewfinder to get situated with? Sorry for the dumb question here! It doesn't appear to have any magnification, so unsure if that is more accurate or less than a guide scope?

Edit - Found a video, so looks like the camera connects directly into the top of the OAG-L and guides that way. Does the OAG-L not interfere with the main camera at all?

Oh man, what a rabbit hole I've found in this hobby!

There is a stem to raise/lower the oag prism. You need to increase it enough to avoid leaving a shadow but low enough to get illumination. It’s fine for the fra400 which technically supports full frame

[charles.tremblay.darveau]

I recommend the 220mm mini for oag at that focal length. The 174mm mini is better a long focal length

[Oort Cloud]

I recommend the 220mm mini for oag at that focal length. The 174mm mini is better a long focal length

I use my 174mm mini on OAG-L with my 418mm 65PHQ, and the EQ6-r guides it at the same .3-.5" as it does my C8 at 1484mm.

The 174 is fine. Maybe below 400mm it might start to have issues with image scale, but at 400 it works just fine.

[charles.tremblay.darveau]

I use my 174mm mini on OAG-L with my 418mm 65PHQ, and the EQ6-r guides it at the same .3-.5" as it does my C8 at 1484mm.

The 174 is fine. Maybe below 400mm it might start to have issues with image scale, but at 400 it works just fine.

Yes, it will work fine it is just overkill in price compared to the 220mm. If you can go for the 174mm then this is an excellent guide camera.

[idclimber]

You do not need an OAG and it will not improve your tracking over a guide scope with the FRA400. IMHO the main reason to go this way is so you can use this with a long focal length scope you might get next. If you have plans for an 8" Edge or larger then this idea is fine. 

 

If you are going with the OAG-L the ASI174mm is better sized for that prism. The larger pixels are also better than the 220. 

[Oort Cloud]

Yes, it will work fine it is just overkill in price compared to the 220mm. If you can go for the 174mm then this is an excellent guide camera.

The ZWO version went from 600 to 400 a year or so ago; for whatever that's worth...that was what pushed me to buy one...no way I was paying 600 for a guide camera, and I'm guessing not too many other folks were keen on it either, hence the price drop. Pure speculation, of course, but money is typically the driving factor behind well, everything.

[jml79]

When the OP made amendments to his shopping list, he chose 2 packages. One of the packages comes with an OAG-L and the other comes with a 30mm scope and ASI120. All of this will work excellent with an FRA400. Why are we talking about upgrading guide scopes. Such a minor consideration. Unless you are using an SCT or RC scope it should be - have guide scope, yes, good enough.

 

I have guided my 102mm scope at 571mm f/l and sampling of 0.84 arc seconds to less than 0.6 arcseconds using a webcam (SV105) and an antique SSAG with giant pixels and horrible sensitivity. They both worked just fine. With an OAG and Ceres-M (ASI120MM) it easily guides down to 0.3 arcseconds if the seeing is good enough.

 

The truth is most mounts can't guide well enough to need more than a 30mm guide scope and an ASI290 or ASI120 which easily guides at or below 0.6. A 60mm guides scope with an ASI290 or a small prism OAG with an ASI220 or ASI120 can guide as low as 0.3, possibly lower. Only SCT's and RC scopes really need an OAG-L and ASI174 and that is for a few compounding reasons like mirror flop and/or differential flexure and the solution to those issues (an OAG) means you have to guide through a super long focal length so need large pixels and a larger FOV.

Edited by jml79, 16 October 2024 - 01:06 PM.

[charles.tremblay.darveau]

 

The truth is most mounts can't guide well enough to need more than a 30mm guide scope and an ASI290 or ASI120 which easily guides at or below 0.6. A 60mm guides scope with an ASI290 or a small prism OAG with an ASI220 or ASI120 can guide as low as 0.3, possibly lower. Only SCT's and RC scopes really need an OAG-L and ASI174 and that is for a few compounding reasons like mirror flop and/or differential flexure and the solution to those issues (an OAG) means you have to guide through a super long focal length so need large pixels and a larger FOV.

Not true, I have been bitten by differential flexure on my FRA400 before. You need to make sure that the connection is SOLID otherwise any minor drift can mess up exposures.  Meanwhile, you only need to set the OAG once and you don't think about it anymore. A scope with differential flexure will guide well in the RMS but still show star trails.

 

Then again, nothing wrong with starting with a 30mm guidescope with the 120mm-mini. It's just good to be aware of the pitfalls.

[charles.tremblay.darveau]

BTW this is the cable I use for my dew straps. It connects to RCA style connectors back to the DC port of the ASIAIR:
https://agenaastro.c...asiair-pro.html

 

If you go for the guidescope solution the same cable can power the two dew straps. The Dew-not products have been working well for me.

[Anarken]

Sincerely, thank you all.  I've scrapped the 2600mm combination package, and instead am going to go with the guide scope to start.  So added a filter wheel and filters, going with the the ZWO filters (LRGB and SHO).  I looked at the Antila filters, but they openly state that they create halos on the stars and will not accept returns on it.

 

Seems that it wouldn't be worth the price compared to the cheaper ZWO?  Chroma is insanely expensive, and probably will put me way too far over my already painful budget I am coming to terms with.

 

Do filters have as much of an impact as the quality of the glass in the scope, or is it not as significant at these price ranges?  ZWO filters will still be about $700.

Edited by Anarken, 16 October 2024 - 08:55 PM.

[charles.tremblay.darveau]

Sincerely, thank you all. I've scrapped the 2600mm combination package, and instead am going to go with the guide scope to start. So added a filter wheel and filters, going with the the ZWO filters (LRGB and SHO). I looked at the Antila filters, but they openly state that they create halos on the stars and will not accept returns on it.

Seems that it wouldn't be worth the price compared to the cheaper ZWO? Chroma is insanely expensive, and probably will put me way too far over my already painful budget I am coming to terms with.

Do filters have as much of an impact as the quality of the glass in the scope, or is it not as significant at these price ranges? ZWO filters will still be about $700.

Agena says that but the 3nm set is excellent. I’ve got two set and never saw an halo. Same story for many other people. In my opinion it’s second in line after chroma.

Then again it’s hard to beat the value of the zwo set. The oiii zwo will have some halos but so does the Hubble space telescope.

[Anarken]

Agena says that but the 3nm set is excellent. I’ve got two set and never saw an halo. Same story for many other people. In my opinion it’s second in line after chroma.

Then again it’s hard to beat the value of the zwo set. The oiii zwo will have some halos but so does the Hubble space telescope.

This is what made me nervous though, from Agena's website.  Am I looking at the wrong product?  Not knowing enough about any of this, it gave me a lot of pause.

 

https://agenaastro.c...-unmounted.html

 

Please note we are unable to accept returns of any Antlia narrowband filters if you do observe this haloing effect in your images.

If you must ensure there are no detectable halos in your images, you may want to consider Astrodon or Chroma narrowband filters instead. These filters, however, cost two to three times as much as Antlia 3nm filters do. Antlia is being honest and upfront. They are the ones telling us about these halos, that their filters are great for the money but still not as good as Astrodon/Chroma, and pointing out that with this full disclosure, they will not accept returns. They are leaving it up to the customer to decide if this is good enough for them or not. We believe that for most imaging applications, Antlia filters continue to offer excellent value for astrophotographers and these continue to be among our top sellers.

Edited by Anarken, 16 October 2024 - 09:36 PM.