4 replies to this topic

[Stryderstar]

Hello astrophotography community! I am a newbie coming from wildlife photography. I’ve been researching astrophotography for a mere four months and I’m not sure what to do. I’ve got a Canon 600mm F4 RF, and a 400mm f2.8 ef, as well as an R7 mirrorless camera. I’m just thinking about using that lens on the ZWO AM5n mount, with an ASI Pro, and trying to figure out a way to hook the lens up to a ZWO ASI2600MC-Air Wireless Smart Camera and Guider. What do I need to accomplish that, can I use filters with it?

I’m a bit confused with all of the editing processes. While I like editing in photoshop , it Seems like a gigantic headache to stretch and stack and have to use other programs. Then I saw the Celestron Origin smart telescope, Which at first I thought was gimmicky and overpriced; however, it seems super easy, it stacks it for you and I can still the. Edit in photoshop, and the results look very solid. However am I just getting taken with that Sony sensor? Will I be happy with the image results?

if you were starting from the ground up in astrophotography, but had some background in photography and really respected quality of an image, what setup would you go with within reason (4k with some wiggle room). What kind of telescope would be an obvious upgrade from my prime photography lens or is that not what you would bother with? I’m a bit nervous to go monochromatic as that seems like a much more complex deal. I just don’t want to purchase all of these expensive instruments, but have no confidence in being able to produce an image I enjoy.

Thanks for your time!

[terry59]

Hello astrophotography community! I am a newbie coming from wildlife photography. I’ve been researching astrophotography for a mere four months and I’m not sure what to do. I’ve got a Canon 600mm F4 RF, and a 400mm f2.8 ef, as well as an R7 mirrorless camera. I’m just thinking about using that lens on the ZWO AM5n mount, with an ASI Pro, and trying to figure out a way to hook the lens up to a ZWO ASI2600MC-Air Wireless Smart Camera and Guider. What do I need to accomplish that, can I use filters with it?

I’m a bit confused with all of the editing processes. While I like editing in photoshop , it Seems like a gigantic headache to stretch and stack and have to use other programs. Then I saw the Celestron Origin smart telescope, Which at first I thought was gimmicky and overpriced; however, it seems super easy, it stacks it for you and I can still the. Edit in photoshop, and the results look very solid. However am I just getting taken with that Sony sensor? Will I be happy with the image results?

if you were starting from the ground up in astrophotography, but had some background in photography and really respected quality of an image, what setup would you go with within reason (4k with some wiggle room). What kind of telescope would be an obvious upgrade from my prime photography lens or is that not what you would bother with? I’m a bit nervous to go monochromatic as that seems like a much more complex deal. I just don’t want to purchase all of these expensive instruments, but have no confidence in being able to produce an image I enjoy.

Thanks for your time!

The quality of the raw data and the finished image are dependent upon the amount of work invested. If you know that high quality images are your goal you should start with equipment that can grow with you. First off is a German Equatorial  or strainwave Mount sized for the imaging package you will have it carry. Sized here includes both the weight and moment arm. The mount also needs to track with high precision in both RA and DEC axes.

Excellent images are created using both color and monochrome cameras. Color cameras require filters to image emission nebula very well and mono requires filters for everything. Most important early is having a camera with controlled temperature. Decide if calibration is something to learn or to avoid.

 

How I’d spend 4k: A quality mount first. Start with a regular camera and lenses that you own if possible. Use free software to learn the fundamentals of processing. Save what you don’t spend here for the next level.

 

Next would be an inexpensive Windows laptop to control the mount and camera plus the control software. If you decide that astrophotography isn’t for you at this point your investment is limited and you can sell what you’ve bought easily. If you are hooked then auto guiding, auto focus, processing software, etc would make your data collection much easier.

 

Edit: You can find excellent mentors here

 

My 2   
 

CS

 

Terry

Edited by terry59, 05 November 2024 - 11:10 AM.

[Ranger Tim]

If you want the easiest and simplest avenue into the hobby you are thinking along the correct path. Here are some thoughts:

 

• If you don’t want to spend much but want an easy fool-proof scope that will give you pics to share on social media then one of the automated models such as the Seestar by ZWO would be perfect. This will not result in images that can be turned into wall hanging art but will be a turn key entry for only $500. Since you have some high dollar camera gear I suspect this would not be good enough for you.
• Adapting your existing lenses to a cooled camera is certainly possible with adapters. Mounting the lens to a dovetail plate would take some investigation but I know folks here do it all the time. Whether or not images from these lenses would be free of aberrations at max aperture is unknown to me. If I were to spend the money to get an AM5, ASI2600MC Air, and an EAF it would be a logical step to get a quality starter refractor instead of trying to adapt the Canon equipment. This would be a no brainer for me, especially dealing with auto focusing.
• The above ZWO equipment is a fairly robust and simple solution that will yield good pictures and help flatten the learning curve of image capture. Many here object to the design philosophy of packaging a camera, guider, and computer into one unit because it limits flexibility. They also have a difference in principles with ZWO — that’s all I will say about that. I have been in the hobby for a long time and appreciate how astro companies are marketing smart tools for new users, increasing their chances of success. ZWO is not the only game in town for this approach, but once you start down this road with any manufacturer it tends to narrow your choices. I use and like their stuff but have accumulated other stuff over the years. I will leave the rest of the equipment debate for others.
• Neglecting the software side of this hobby is often a beginner’s classic mistake. You seem to be aware of how important SW is to bring images to their eventual polished end point. Postprocessing is a much more important facet of AP than landscape or conventional photography. As such it only makes sense to use software designed for AP for best results. Yes, it is more complicated, but there are plenty of Processing for Dummies videos and websites to help you. I have used most of the common AP software available and recommend that you try all of them to find the best fit. If you are a Photoshop power user you may be able to get away with continuing to use it along with a simple image stacker like Deep Sky Stacker. There are quality free complete options like Siril available. Trial periods exist for others like Pixinsight and Astro Pixel Processor. Excellent video tutorials exist for all of them. My thinking has changed over the years, especially because I am not as hamstrung by my wallet. I think you should spend the cash to purchase Pixinsight once you have determined this is an endeavor that you are going to stick with for a while. You won’t regret it and your images will be the better for it. It is not the bugaboo it once was — there are lots of scripts and fairly automated AI tools to take the complexity out of the process. Once you have learned the basics you can dive into it and utilize more complex tools.
• Once you receive your stuff and begin shooting there will be lots of problems to solve. This is normal and we are here to help. Share your successes and be sure to share your failures as well. This is not a forum where only polished work is displayed. Please return often and let us know how you are progressing. 

Edit: Terry’s post above is an excellent reply. There will be more. I completely agree with the mount being the most important piece of the puzzle.

Edited by Ranger Tim, 05 November 2024 - 11:45 AM.

[Zambiadarkskies]

Given your budget and your amazing lenses I would do: 

Get an AM5N and an AIR.  Forget about the cooled camera for now.  Get a Bhatinov mask for that 400 and learn to manually focus.  The air will work with your R7 fine.  Get a solid means to mount that 400mm - a dovetail plate will get you started just fine.  

 

Spend another couple of hundred on a guiding set up - ZWO 120mm mini and SVBony 50mm guidescope will work more than well.  

 

At this point you are good to manually focus and get onto targets, guide and get integration time at f2.8 with a super quality lens.  And you are well under budget.

 

Once you have hours under your belt you will see what is the next step.   If that is a cooled camera then you can get a 2600mc (forget the air version) and you already have a control solution (ASI air) and a guiding set up.  You now can get a zwo to EF adapter and use that 400 with the 2600mc.  The 2600 air locks you in in many ways.  I would avoid it.  

 

After that if the lens is still holding you back you could add a refractor and an autofocus solution.  But you don't need that out the gate when you have an incredible fast APO in the shape of that 400.   

 

Edit: I was going to talk about filters (esp if you are dealing with light pollution), but there are ways and means I believe to use the drop in filter drawer on your 400 to achieve that while you start with the R7.  If you move to a cooled camera and an adapter then you can get the one with the filter drawer.  I use various EF lenses with various combinations of cameras - cooled and "regular" - as well as control solutions and an AM5.  Feel free to shoot me a PM.  I am also a wildlife guy that got into astro (own and run a small safari lodge in Zambia).  

 

This is with the humble EF 100-400V2 (at 100mm).  Just to give you an idea.  With a 533mc cooled camera, so totally manual focus.  A 6 panel mosaic of 32 Hours.  

 

 

Here is a refractor (ff65) but with my Canon R6 which is totally stock:  

 

 

My point is that you have amazing gear.  All you need right now is a mount, a control solution and guiding.  The ASI air I am a firm believer in - for someone starting out.  

Edited by Zambiadarkskies, 05 November 2024 - 01:58 PM.

[DeepSky Di]

Welcome to Cloudy Nights!

 

I moved from DSLR terrestrial photography in 2020. You can get started with terrestrial equipment but will soon run into limitations.

 

AM5N is a great choice for the mount.

I have used ASIAIRs for 4 years now and so that's also a good choice to get started as well as for the long term. There are alternatives - the main one is Windows-only NINA running on a Windows mini computer.

 

If you have an ASIAIR you don't also need the 2600MC Air; the 2600MC Duo would be enough. They currently cost the same but I think there are some pros and cons:

- the 2600MC Air has no capability to control the camera externally. So if something goes wrong with the internal ASIAIR (which is a mini) or if it gets deprecated or loses software support, nothing else can run the camera. 

- on the plus side, there's a lot less wiring.

- given the choice, I find the 2600MC Air interesting for travel, but the ASIAIR Plus box is so small that traveling with it is not an issue.

 

There's also the alternative of using a regular 2600MC and a guide camera and guide scope or OAG. It looks like the MC Duo works well enough, and if ever it didn't (for example with an OTA with a very small image circle), an external guiding solution would also work with it.

 

There are solutions to connect DSLRs and DSLMs to telescopes and vice versa. The thing you notice when moving from a lens to a telescope is the telescope is so much easier to focus. Then you get the EAF and no more manual focusing.