OK, so you drilled out the center of the holder so the main bolt could pass through and take an acorn inside? No clearance concerns or special short acorn to clear the glass? The acorn nut would be a full threaded bore so it can go on 'backwards'? I LIKE this. I'd still use allen head cap screws for collimation so I can rest the allens in place and have simultaneous adjustment on two screws. The larger collimation screws can be rounded or pointed on the end so they nest in the original holes in the holder. Nesting the screws would keep them from walking the holder around when they are turned.
The ones I'm working on are all different on how the center bolt is attached. They all have the set screw but one has one nut as you described, one has two nuts with one on each side of the spider hub, and one had no nuts - only the set screw. They all looked original with factory finish over them. One nut had a star lock washer. Typical variations that might have changed daily or even the same day!
Nice idea but I'm going more original and avoid the drilling and tapping. deSitter's work is well thought out and part of my decision to stay original is to simply offer another idea. I will get the allen bolts. I'll leave out the main bolt set screw - Yep, bad idea - and lock the bolt with a nut tightened to the hub.
Original is not the best design for sure but not horrible, not the worst by far. The vane hub could have been larger and used as the back plate, with the mirror holder moved much closer to the hub. Hindsight.