The three screws, IF it has three screws, will all have to be twirled back and forth, but in pairs as already described, so that you see which way to turn them to get closest to the item that the main optical tube is already showing you with about a 10mm eyepiece installed in the larger scope. For many modern finders, there is a spring-loaded 'retainer' pawl that offers essentially no adjustment, just a fulcrum. You lever the finder's tube against it using the two screws in combination. Make sure the thick rubber O-ring is firmly inserted between that same screw-ring and the body of the finder passing through. You may need an implement to do this effectively, and you'll really want to be careful with that implement! !!!
The distant object, whatever you figure is easily seen without having to haul the scope anywhere, should be at least 300 yards distant if possible, it should be small, and it should be clearly visible, focused, AND centered in the view of a smaller focal length eyepiece like a 10 mm (start with a 30-ish mm eyepiece so that you have a hope of lining the scope up to begin with, and then switch to, focus, and center the 10 mm view).
The item can be a pine tree top, the last 2-4" of the uppermost point tip, a weather vane part, a doorknob, a gate latch....anything you can see clearly, as far as you can see, but please 300 meters/yards is best, or more distant. The closer the item really is, the more convergence toward the scope the finder tube will necessarily have, and when you go to use the finder at night, you might be off by as much as 20-30' or arc, which makes aligning on dim objects a real pain. The further away your target is during daylight alignment, the less convergence, or the more parallel, the two optical tubes will have, which is what you want.