7 replies to this topic

[Ilikedanightsky]

Hello fellow dark sky enthusiast, 

 

I've recently went down the astrophotography rabbit hole and just had a few questions.

 

Here is my setup I am thinking of (so far only have the redcat 51, guide scope and the am3 mount): 

 

Scope: Redcat 51

Mount: ZWO AM3

Camera: ZWO ASI533 pro (???)

Guide scope: Uniguide 32mm f/3.75

Guide camera: ZWO ASI120MM-Mini

Computer: ASIAir pro

Filter: Optolong L-Ultimate (???)

 

First of all, any glaring problems with this setup? I'd like to mainly photograph Nebulas and live in a very light polluted area (Bortle 8-9). Though there are darker areas I can drive to. 

 

I got my scope and mount in the mail today, and when setting up I had a random question regarding the AM3 mount which is probably very dumb. How tight/loose are all the tunable knobs and whatnot supposed to be? 

 

Another thing I thought of, since I live in such a light polluted area, would I need to get a filter for my guide camera as well? I watched a video of someones workflow using the ASIAIR pro and he mentioned that his redcat acts as the guiding scope as well, which I didn't really understand.

 

I'm just looking for general advice really to make sure I'm not shooting myself in the foot and end up purchasing equipment that doesn't work for me. 

 

Thank you for any potential advice!

 

[vidrazor]

That a nice small rig. Just note that narrow band filters can only be used for nebulae, don't use them on galaxies or clusters.

 

Also, note that while the ASIAir will make things neat, it will lock you into using only ZWO products. If you're fine with that, roll on. Otherwise look at options like Stellarmate or AstroArch. Both of these systems can run on either Raspberry Pi's or Intel MiniPCs, and allow you to use hardware from any manufacturer.

 

You won't need filtration for the guide camera. Learn how to use gradient removal programs like GraXpert. Gradient removal is how we deal with light pollution, along with proper shooting techniques when shooting in light polluted skies. Also, remember to shoot calibration frames. How do you plan to process your data? I use Siril, and highly recommend it. You can find a basic tutorial for it here. Also check out the Seti Astro Suite, and how to use it. All these programs are free.

Edited by vidrazor, 18 February 2025 - 12:22 AM.

[cloudlooker9001]

I'm a complete noob so I won't offer much advice, but I have a very similar setup and Bortle 9 skies. I just wanted to mention the SV220 filter, which I have really been enjoying!

[matt_astro_tx]

Your setup looks decent to me.  Should be fun and exciting to use.

 

The ASIAir does lock you into ZWO products, but I haven't minded that and I love my ASIAir Pro.  I think it's an especially good way to go for a beginner.  It makes everything so easy.  And even as a novice who's four years into the hobby of AP, I still love mine.

 

Agree you shouldn't need a guidescope filter.  I have heard of people using red filters or UV/IR cut filters on their guide scopes but it just seems like a waste of money to me.

 

As for how tight to turn handles and screws, you want them to be snug enough that they won't move, but not much more than that.  Nothing on your rig should require all your strength to tighten or loosen.  For starters you don't want to strip any of the fasteners, but secondly you want to be able to make adjustments in the field without completely throwing your polar alignment off.  For instance I keep my clutch extremely loose, like it's barely engaged at all.  I tighten it only as much as needed to hold my scope in balance, which is like the same force as a sheet of paper or so it feels.  I'd say the tightest fastener on my entire rig is the latitude adjustment knob which never moves because there is a fine adjustment knob for elevation adjustments during PA.  Anyway, hope that helps.

 

Oh and welcome to Cloudy Nights!

Edited by matt_astro_tx, 18 February 2025 - 05:13 AM.

[BucketDave]

I'm considering a bigger chip camera (like an ASI2600) and going mono, for my wide-field nebula imaging. However, that's with a few years experience behind me.

As a newbie, I'd go for the ASI533mc (which i have now). No need to mess about with camera rotation. Smaller files and faster processing. You can probably pick one up second hand. Get a bigger camera when you can make use of it properly. Use the money saved to buy some filters.

I'm been doing 5 panel mosaics this autumn, using my 533. That would be a single frame, using a 2600. The bigger camera would make it less faff and improve integration time in the corners (where there is no overlap).

Mono gives better pictures with more detail but the camera is more expensive. And you need a filterwheel and more filters. The processing is also more complex. I'd learn with a smallish OSC camera (533mc) and go large/mono once you've mastered the basics.

[Juno18]

Sounds like a great setup to start out with (or use forever).

 

I live in a Bortle 7 sky, so not too terribly different from you. With the 533MCP, you will need a uv/ir cut filter since the sensor window is protective glass only. Without a uv/ir cut, you probably will see some star bloating.

 

I bought a ASI533MC-P 4 years ago thinking that I would upgrade to a larger sensor (like the 2600MCP) but never have and probably won't. Even though the larger sensor is better all around, the 533MCP has been a fabulous camera to work with. Smaller files and easier/quicker processing, little need to rotate. I bought a couple of wider scopes to increase the fov!

 

NOTE:  If you decide to purchase a broadband filter (lp) filter, or basically any type of filter, you won't need a seperate uv/ir cut filter.

 

Good luck and have fun!

[mayhem13]

Big decisions for you at this point…….save $$$ and go with the smaller sensor 533? Then most users will wind up saving on filters by using the 1 1/4 size which is all this sensor requires………in the hopes of not ever wanting the APS C sensor and the wide field of view that the Redcat is known for……..then talks themself out of it as they realize they have to replace all of the filters to 2”! Lol

 

Broad band targets like galaxies, Star clusters and emission nebula you’ll need an IR/UV cut filter for the 533 sensors clear window. Try to get a good one as this determines Star centroid size and defines color……I use the Baader FCUVIR and it’s worth every penny for the clarity and definition.

 

The Optolong L Enhance is a nice duo band introduction into deep sky nebula and not too difficult to work with on the processing side as you develop your skills

 

What’s likely going to happen is two fold….you’re either going to bail on AP as your conditions make it increasingly difficult and time consuming with a OSC camera OR you’re going to discover the massive advantage of filtered monochrome imaging in light polluted skies.

 

You CAN just take the plunge now for not much more of investment and buy the QHY MiniCam system which is a mono 585 sensor…….its a smaller field of view than the 533 but overall a better chip than the 533 and the smaller pixels a better image scale match for the Cat. Mind you this option will be more difficult as you’ll have to navigate active filter changing with the wheel, refocus between filters and calibration frames after each filter along with the more advanced processing…….only you would know if you’re up for the challenge. 

[Zambiadarkskies]

I am with Mayhem. Just go mono right now. People talk like it's hard. It's not. If you can figure out processing OSC then you can easily figure mono out. I shoot OSC but have played with a fair bit of mono data. I am blessed to image under dark skies, but if I was in B8/9 it wouldn't even be a debate with myself. I would have gone mono right at the start. Sensor size comes down to budget - that is the bottom line. And big sensors mean big filters and that gets expensive fast. The 533 is somewhat of a sweet spot as far as that goes. I would hild off on the minicam personally (there is a thread in here about issues with the mechanics of the wheel drive) and see what ZWO come out with. Or, if you can't wait then get a 533 solution now. IMHO the 585 trades pixel size and Near IR sensitivity for field of view and bit depth and a rather extreme rectangular format. YMMV.

As for the air, yes it locks you in. The key (if you ever even want one) is an old laptop or usd150 mini pc. Plus you have then got to know the hobby with the air and so will be able to progress with NINA faster. If you even want to go that route. It is not as clear cut as some would have you think.

If you are going to go mono then an EAF should be part of the shopping list.

Edited by Zambiadarkskies, 18 February 2025 - 07:22 AM.