Hi! I'm newish to astrophotography and I'm shooting with a DSLR and the SWSA 2i right now. I want to upgrade to the Samyang 135mm f2 lens, and get an astro camera. I've heard good things about the asi533 and the asi585 but don't know which one to get. Thanks!

ASI533mc pro VS. ASI585mc pro
#1
Posted 25 March 2025 - 08:02 PM
#2
Posted 25 March 2025 - 08:07 PM
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#3
Posted 25 March 2025 - 08:24 PM
Hi! I'm newish to astrophotography and I'm shooting with a DSLR and the SWSA 2i right now. I want to upgrade to the Samyang 135mm f2 lens, and get an astro camera. I've heard good things about the asi533 and the asi585 but don't know which one to get. Thanks!
Unless you are budget constrained, I would go for the ASI533Pro (cooled)
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#4
Posted 26 March 2025 - 08:32 AM
Hands down the 533. If you are budget limited buy the SVBony or Touptek versions. If you must buy a cooled 585, get the Touptek or QHY version. I have written many long replies about why the ZWO ASI585MC or MM Pro specifically is a seriously flawed implementation of the IMX585 sensor.
Edited by jml79, 26 March 2025 - 08:35 AM.
#5
Posted 26 March 2025 - 10:53 AM
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#6
Posted 26 March 2025 - 06:08 PM
Hi! I'm newish to astrophotography and I'm shooting with a DSLR and the SWSA 2i right now. I want to upgrade to the Samyang 135mm f2 lens, and get an astro camera. I've heard good things about the asi533 and the asi585 but don't know which one to get. Thanks!
I came from a DSLR then went to IMX571, then started looking for my next camera.
First thing I'd recommend is looking beyond ZWO - there are many better implementations of popular camera sizes from other brands such as Player One, Touptek and QHY. In particular the ZWO 585 is a bit of a mess.
For me, coming from an APS-C sized IMX571 / DSLR, there was zero advantage in going for an IMX533, same pixel size, just a smaller sensor.
So, I bought myself a Uranus-M (IMX585) recently. First light images here..... https://www.cloudyni...rst-mono-image/
Before that I did a lot of research on how well the sensor FOV would suit what I want to shoot when combined with my OTA's - that for me is the most important point so use Telescopius and Astronomy Tools websites to work out what FOV is best for you.
Apart from the technical issues described, there is the sensor shape. Some say they don't like square and I personally really like it. It has many advantages. The 585 however has a 16:9 aspect ratio which I enjoy in the movies but not in astrophotography. I have been thinking about the 585 and mono, but honestly I keep just coming back to that aspect ratio which I really don't enjoy.
Regarding the sensor shape, I found that many DSO's that I am likely to shoot are very asymmetric and can be framed to fit very nicely in the landscape format (Horsehead, California, Cygnus Wall, Eastern Veil, Western Veil, vast majority of galaxies etc etc).
And, since I display most of my images on a desktop monitor or a phone screen, having the landscape / 16:9 format works much better for me.
Sensor shape is really a personal choice - there is no right or wrong.
Edited by archiebald, 26 March 2025 - 06:10 PM.
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#7
Posted 27 March 2025 - 10:10 AM
How about the ToupTek ATR585C? It has a HDR mode which means: a bit depth of about 15bits, a full well of 14k, and a read noise of 0.6e! All for $560.
Cuiv's review: https://www.youtube....h?v=pLEvPFvEnmA
#8
Posted 27 March 2025 - 01:07 PM
Apart from the technical issues described, there is the sensor shape. Some say they don't like square and I personally really like it. It has many advantages. The 585 however has a 16:9 aspect ratio which I enjoy in the movies but not in astrophotography. I have been thinking about the 585 and mono, but honestly I keep just coming back to that aspect ratio which I really don't enjoy.
Friends who have the 533 tell me it's easier to do mosaics with a square sensor. Never done a mosaic myself but sounds reasonable.
#9
Posted 01 April 2025 - 11:54 AM
For general Astrophotography, you may find scenario where the full well capacity of the 585 that is less than the 533 sensor. Planetary nebula where the core is 10 magnitude different than the outer core or a very bright star is adjacent to a nebula of interest. More care will be needed to avoid over-saturation while attempting to capture a faint fuzzy.