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Eyepiece Case Rearranged.....Again!

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#1 Speedy1985

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Posted 12 April 2025 - 09:07 AM

Well, as most here probably have done over the course of collecting different eyepieces, I had to change my case layout yet again because I recently acquired a few new ones. I now believe I have what should be my final set, other than a possible 3.7mm Ethos in the future. The bonus is that with each change in my set, I became better at cutting the Kaizen foam for the case and this latest one is my best. 

IMG 9827

 


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#2 Albie

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Posted 12 April 2025 - 09:13 AM

My Pelican/Storm im2300 is on it's fourth set of foam since I bought it .  I am on my second new foam set since November 2024 because I kept adding or changing  things . Nice thing is that each new set of foam has two identical layers in the kit , you can reconfigure the case twice with one set , just hang on to the foam you've cut out from the first configuration so that you can plug up the messed up configuration .  So since 2007 I have reconfigured my case eight times with four sets of foam . My new 20mm XW has messed things up in the case , might need  some new foam crazy.gif

 

Eyepieces .JPG


Edited by Albie, 12 April 2025 - 09:17 AM.

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#3 Speedy1985

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Posted 12 April 2025 - 09:20 AM

My Pelican/Storm im2300 is on it's fourth set of foam since I bought it .  I am on the my second new foam set since November 2024 because I kept adding or changing  things . Nice thing is that each new set of foam has two identical layers in the kit , you can reconfigure the case twice just hang on to the foam you've cut out from the first configuration so that you can plug up the messed up configuration .  So since 2007 I have reconfigured my case eight times with four sets of foam .

 

attachicon.gif Eyepieces .JPG

I only keep the original pluck foam in my Apache cases as a bottom cushioning layer now. Initially, I had used the pluck foam for my first layout but I found after a while that it would start to pull apart from just taking eyepieces out. So I bought a sheet of the Kaizen foam and found it was much more rigid and held the eyepieces better vs the pluck type.   


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#4 SeattleScott

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Posted 12 April 2025 - 10:13 AM

My Pelican/Storm im2300 is on it's fourth set of foam since I bought it . I am on my second new foam set since November 2024 because I kept adding or changing things . Nice thing is that each new set of foam has two identical layers in the kit , you can reconfigure the case twice with one set , just hang on to the foam you've cut out from the first configuration so that you can plug up the messed up configuration . So since 2007 I have reconfigured my case eight times with four sets of foam . My new 20mm XW has messed things up in the case , might need some new foam crazy.gif

Eyepieces .JPG

Interesting, 2x tele-extender. Seems completely redundant other than to use with the 7mm to get 3.5mm. Perhaps you don’t get to use that much magnification often enough to justify buying the 3.5XW? The tele-extender was cheaper?

#5 FoxIslandHiker

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Posted 12 April 2025 - 10:19 PM

The bonus is that with each change in my set, I became better at cutting the Kaizen foam for the case and this latest one is my best. 

Hey Don,

 

Good timing. I am just starting to reconfigure both of my cases. I got two new sheets of Kaizen and I’m going to recycle some of the old for the lower layers.  
 

I am curious if you have any tips for making clean cuts?

 

I have a DeWalt knife with the break-off blades. I use a couple pieces of cardboard as a substrate so I can cut through the foam. My challenge is getting clean cuts all the way through. The top looks fine, but I’ve been getting some tearing on the bottom.

 

Hank


Edited by FoxIslandHiker, 12 April 2025 - 10:25 PM.

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#6 mikeDnight

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Posted 13 April 2025 - 04:24 AM

My Pelican/Storm im2300 is on it's fourth set of foam since I bought it .  I am on my second new foam set since November 2024 because I kept adding or changing  things . Nice thing is that each new set of foam has two identical layers in the kit , you can reconfigure the case twice with one set , just hang on to the foam you've cut out from the first configuration so that you can plug up the messed up configuration .  So since 2007 I have reconfigured my case eight times with four sets of foam . My new 20mm XW has messed things up in the case , might need  some new foam crazy.gif

 

attachicon.gif Eyepieces .JPG

A beautiful set of XW's there Albie. Just don't look at any star fields through the 23mm and 16.5mm 85° XW's or you might be cutting some more foam sooner than you think! lol.gif


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#7 balcon3

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Posted 13 April 2025 - 05:49 AM

Since I am still in the phase of acquiring and testing eyepieces, I prefer to use a camera case with movable subdividers, so I can change which eyepieces I take with me from night to night. This one works very well (Tenba Attache 1914). It is highly padded, so the eyepieces are well protected. 

 

IMG_5154.jpg

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#8 Speedy1985

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Posted 13 April 2025 - 09:09 AM

Hey Don,

 

Good timing. I am just starting to reconfigure both of my cases. I got two new sheets of Kaizen and I’m going to recycle some of the old for the lower layers.  
 

I am curious if you have any tips for making clean cuts?

 

I have a DeWalt knife with the break-off blades. I use a couple pieces of cardboard as a substrate so I can cut through the foam. My challenge is getting clean cuts all the way through. The top looks fine, but I’ve been getting some tearing on the bottom.

 

Hank

Hey Hank!

 

I used a Dewalt snap blade knife as well. I didn’t do anything special as far as the cuts. It’s very difficult to make the cuts exactly straight all the way down because the knife is a little flexible and you’d have to be very conscious of it being perfectly perpendicular for each cut. As long as the top portion of the foam is cut straight it will look fine. I used compass to measure the widest part of each eyepiece and then a combo square on the factory edges of the foam to mark the shape of the cuts I wanted to make. I didn’t get fancy with the exact profile of each one because I tried that before and it’s just too hard to get it to look good. The only one I did that on was the P2 that has a small step to the lower barrel diameter. For the cuts, I followed my lines and made several shallow depth slices and then after a few of those, I stood the knife straight up and went the full depth. Keep in mind, I did it right in the case with the original pluck foam as the bottom layer. The pluck foam is very soft and the knife kind of just pushes it out of the way. I could feel when I got all the way through the Kaizen. Cutting the full depth puts the eyepiece too low in the foam, so I then slice off a portion of the cut out piece to raise the eyepiece to the height I want and put that back in the bottom of the opening. The Kaizen is made from several layers about 1/8” each so I just cut off 3-4 of them depending on the eyepiece. I found this is easier than trying to pull out a certain depth of the foam, which does tend to tear when trying that. Hopefully this all makes sense, good luck!


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#9 Albie

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Posted 13 April 2025 - 11:21 AM

Interesting, 2x tele-extender. Seems completely redundant other than to use with the 7mm to get 3.5mm. Perhaps you don’t get to use that much magnification often enough to justify buying the 3.5XW? The tele-extender was cheaper?

Before I started putting together a set of Pentax XW's because of the need to wear eyeglasses , I had a set of ep's that included 3 speers walers (4.9 , 7.2 and 9.4mm) and 3 Meade 5000 SWA's (16,20 and 24mm) . The tele-extender  was bought along with the SWA's , it made more sense with that collection of ep's .  So yes it is now a bit redundant other than keeping it for the 7mm for whenever I want or can use 342x magnification which is rare . When I had a set of Naglers my high power was a 5mmT6 , when I needed more power I barlowed the 7mmT6 and rarely the 5mm . I really like my Telextender to the degree that I sold my 2x 1.25" Televue , the tele-extender is a keeper . If  I remember correctly the Meade 5000 Tele-extender cost me somewhere between $120 - $150CAD at the time .



#10 Inkie

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Posted 13 April 2025 - 02:45 PM

Hey Hank!

 

I used a Dewalt snap blade knife as well. I didn’t do anything special as far as the cuts. It’s very difficult to make the cuts exactly straight all the way down because the knife is a little flexible and you’d have to be very conscious of it being perfectly perpendicular for each cut. As long as the top portion of the foam is cut straight it will look fine. I used compass to measure the widest part of each eyepiece and then a combo square on the factory edges of the foam to mark the shape of the cuts I wanted to make. I didn’t get fancy with the exact profile of each one because I tried that before and it’s just too hard to get it to look good. The only one I did that on was the P2 that has a small step to the lower barrel diameter. For the cuts, I followed my lines and made several shallow depth slices and then after a few of those, I stood the knife straight up and went the full depth. Keep in mind, I did it right in the case with the original pluck foam as the bottom layer. The pluck foam is very soft and the knife kind of just pushes it out of the way. I could feel when I got all the way through the Kaizen. Cutting the full depth puts the eyepiece too low in the foam, so I then slice off a portion of the cut out piece to raise the eyepiece to the height I want and put that back in the bottom of the opening. The Kaizen is made from several layers about 1/8” each so I just cut off 3-4 of them depending on the eyepiece. I found this is easier than trying to pull out a certain depth of the foam, which does tend to tear when trying that. Hopefully this all makes sense, good luck!

A fish filleting knife, if new/sharp, should make short work of the foam.  To tidy up the edges, improve corners, etc, use those utility snap blades because that is where they shine.   You can get a fish filleting knife cheap, like borscht.


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#11 scotsman328i

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Posted 14 April 2025 - 09:48 AM

Since I am still in the phase of acquiring and testing eyepieces, I prefer to use a camera case with movable subdividers, so I can change which eyepieces I take with me from night to night. This one works very well (Tenba Attache 1914). It is highly padded, so the eyepieces are well protected. 

 

I’m really liking this idea for bringing out some of my eyepieces, but not all four cases of them. Arrangeable Velcro partitions to accommodate most any ocular and well padded. I could even buy a smaller version to put my top 5-6 oculars in and keep it slung over my shoulder and chest and just slew the bag to my front chest area to open and replace/take out other oculars. Pretty good idea!


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#12 Jon Isaacs

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Posted 15 April 2025 - 06:58 AM

Since I am still in the phase of acquiring and testing eyepieces, I prefer to use a camera case with movable subdividers, so I can change which eyepieces I take with me from night to night. This one works very well (Tenba Attache 1914). It is highly padded, so the eyepieces are well protected. 

 

 

My eyepieces are arranged in sets.  Unfortunately, some of the sets are too large to fit in one case so some of the overflow goes into a camera bag... Currently, that bag has the 41mm and 35mm Panoptics, the 20mm LHD, the 13mm and 9mm XWAs and a 2x 2 inch GSO Barlow...  Every eyepiece has it's own spot.  If it not out on an rack or tray, that is where it is.. 

 

Jon


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#13 mikeDnight

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Posted 16 April 2025 - 05:18 PM

My perfect set now with newly fitted foam.

23mm XW, 16.5mmXW, 10mm XW, 5mm XW 3.5mm XW and 40mm & 30mm TMB orthoscopic wide field Paragon's.

IMG-20250416-WA0000.jpg

 


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#14 T1R2

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Posted 16 April 2025 - 06:30 PM

I think the best cuts on Kaizen are with galvanized pipe fittings if using horizontal storage (But food cans can also be used) that have a somewhat sharp edge beveled from the inside rim to the outside with a grinding stone wheel on a Dremel , and T' joint on the end of that to give you a hand hold to press and screw the pipe back and forth to cut. I secured a layer of electrical tape to one end of the pipe so the "T" joint it press fits on the end and can be removed to push out the die cut piece with my finger, you can dig them out if you want though. Kaizen was very easy to cut with a sharpened pipe, and the cuts are very clean when done right. 

 

The galvanized pipe holds the edge better than copper pipe fittings only drawbacks are they get dull and have to be resharpened often, try to get pipe fittings that are within the same size of the eps either exactly right or a little smaller but not by much 1-2mm at the most so you get a good fit, if the pipe is too big in diameter the eps will have a loose fit, if too small it will have a too tight fit.  For my HD60's I used a 2" pipe and T joint, for my 40mm-32mm Plossls I use a 1.5" pipe (I think that's what it was),   if you need a custom fit you'll have to trace the exact shape you need for that accessory.

 

I use Graph Paper to make a template to the exact size of my box or build it up by taping paper together at the lines for bigger cases, then I use the EP eye lens caps (if they are about the same size as the EP body), and use each cap that represents an EP placed on the paper evenly spaced until I get the perfect spacing/ layout using the graph lines, for me I used about  1/2" (two rows) between EP holes, then I trace the caps and make the cuts with a sharp Exacto blade, I cut out entire corner for square cuts that will hold any filter box cases by measuring them when stacked together, that way I don't have to waste any space. 

 

Then once the layout is perfect, I tape the template that is the size of my case to the foam and use a carpenters roofing square and a utility blade to make shallow cuts about 1/2 " deep at a time until it cuts through , this helps keep the cut standing straight, and I cut foam block that fits inside the case about 1.5mm larger on two of the four side so the foam has a nice strong hold when pressed inside the box that doesn't have to be glued with strong glue I just use some double sided tape around the corners on the foam to help hold it in so when removing a EP it doesn't lift the foam out. Then I cut the EP hole by centering the pipe in the center of the cut-out template, and use medium pressure so you don't get the holes tilted, which can happen if using too much force and not paying attention to how straight the hole you're drilling is by checking it from several angles every 1/4"- 1/2" depth drilled. This makes a very clean and symmetrical looking case layout. 



#15 davidgmd

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Posted 17 April 2025 - 12:08 AM

I’m really liking this idea for bringing out some of my eyepieces, but not all four cases of them. Arrangeable Velcro partitions to accommodate most any ocular and well padded. I could even buy a smaller version to put my top 5-6 oculars in and keep it slung over my shoulder and chest and just slew the bag to my front chest area to open and replace/take out other oculars. Pretty good idea!

  
You need an eyepiece bandolier. lol.gif

  
IMG_0770.jpeg


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#16 scotsman328i

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Posted 19 April 2025 - 02:24 PM

My perfect set now with newly fitted foam.

23mm XW, 16.5mmXW, 10mm XW, 5mm XW 3.5mm XW and 40mm & 30mm TMB orthoscopic wide field Paragon's.

attachicon.gif IMG-20250416-WA0000.jpg

Very nice, Mike! Beautiful set right there! I do love me some Pentax! 


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