19 replies to this topic

[gekanukr]

Hello,i bought these binos and found out the contacts were oxidized,i cleaned them and now they look fine but the stabilization still doesnt work,no light,nothing. When i press the button by the way the image in the binos moves one way a little,like the button pushes the optics a little (i think i saw same in my 10x30 binos from canon but the stabilization worked there). So now i think what to do and what the reason of the fault can be? Could oxidized batteries damage the binoculars internally? Or the reason of the fault may be in something else? Is it safe to take them apart and where should i look at? Or where the technician should look at if i take it to a regular computer repair shop? Or better to sell it as is cause there is a possibility to damage them even further? Some people told me the collimation will be broken after taking it apart and i wont be able to use them anymore as reular binoculars?

Could battery leak damage the is function? I heard the wire is quite long from batteries to the board and the leak shouldnt damage the board? What do you think guys? Thanks

Found a video manual https://www.youtube....h?v=L_w9sIDBov8 by the way

IS button feels normal,presses as it should from my feeling.

A photo before cleaning is attached below.

Thanks

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[gekanukr]

After cleaning:

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Edited by gekanukr, 22 May 2025 - 01:13 PM.

[gekanukr]

Buttom of the battery compartment:

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[TOMDEY]

Those pictures are before you cleaned the contacts? Did they clean up so they're nice and shiny metal now? I guess I would throw in the towel and buy a new one.   Tom

[gekanukr]

Those pictures are before you cleaned the contacts? Did they clean up so they're nice and shiny metal now? I guess I would throw in the towel and buy a new one.   Tom

Last 2 pics are after removing oxidation. Looks shiny metal now.

[Bibbt]

Last 2 pics are after removing oxidation. Looks shiny metal now.

I'm betting the contacts still aren't clean enough. Looks to have been pretty bad corrosion and the plating is compromised. Once the plating is messed up, It can be very difficult to get a reliable electrical connection. The photo of the contacts down inside the battery chamber definitely look suspect.  You need a pro grade cleaner like DeOxit and some swabs. Pencil erasers and scrapers are an old trick that helps get the bulk of the corrosion off and then  follow up with DeOxit.  

 

I'm assuming this binocular had alkaline batteries in it?  Care to share which brand?  Your predicament is exactly why I haven't  used alkaline batteries in ANYTHING of value in probably the last 10 years.   I'm a pro photographer and for decades I exclusively used the famous batteries with the copper top. They were the gold standard in my industry.  All of a sudden I started having leakage problems and had numerous pieces of expensive photo gear ruined by alkaline batteries that had only been in the device for 2-3 weeks. Turns out all my pro photographer friends were having the same problems with alkaline cells.

 

 I now only use Energizer Non Rechargeable Lithium cells in expensive equipment. I've never had those leak. These lithium cells have the exact same voltage(1.5 volts) as the equivalent alkaline cells so no problem with low voltage like some rechargeable 1.2 volt nickel metal hydride cells. 

 

Bibb in San Antonio

[TOMDEY]

Good point regarding ~Premium~ alkaline batteries leaking. PS: On a similar note... LED Light Bulbs are touted as lasting forever --- but mine are failing frequently... just about as regularly as tungsten bulbs. To the point where I'm convinced it's planned obsolescence.    Tom

[gekanukr]

I'm betting the contacts still aren't clean enough. Looks to have been pretty bad corrosion and the plating is compromised. Once the plating is messed up, It can be very difficult to get a reliable electrical connection. The photo of the contacts down inside the battery chamber definitely look suspect.  You need a pro grade cleaner like DeOxit and some swabs. Pencil erasers and scrapers are an old trick that helps get the bulk of the corrosion off and then  follow up with DeOxit.  

 

I'm assuming this binocular had alkaline batteries in it?  Care to share which brand?  Your predicament is exactly why I haven't  used alkaline batteries in ANYTHING of value in probably the last 10 years.   I'm a pro photographer and for decades I exclusively used the famous batteries with the copper top. They were the gold standard in my industry.  All of a sudden I started having leakage problems and had numerous pieces of expensive photo gear ruined by alkaline batteries that had only been in the device for 2-3 weeks. Turns out all my pro photographer friends were having the same problems with alkaline cells.

 

 I now only use Energizer Non Rechargeable Lithium cells in expensive equipment. I've never had those leak. These lithium cells have the exact same voltage(1.5 volts) as the equivalent alkaline cells so no problem with low voltage like some rechargeable 1.2 volt nickel metal hydride cells. 

 

Bibb in San Antonio

Here is one more photo,are you sure it needs more cleaning? And where exactly? I need some professional liquide only? Alcohol wont work?

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Edited by gekanukr, 23 May 2025 - 11:38 AM.

[Inkie]

The issue is that the batteries leaked.  Oozed.  Spread. Not just to the metal contacts the batteries were meant to...um.....contact....but beyond.  The materials behind the plates, including any connections/solder is probably also toast. 

 

Have you attempted to find out if they can be refurbished for, say, $500?  New they're almost twice that, but.....they're also new. 

[exup]

These are 30 year old first generation Canon bins.   If it was me, I'd pull them apart and check the power circuit and rewire if necessary.  If that doesn't work, then ....put them back together and use as muggle bins.

 

I've been buying and fixing a few Canon bridge cameras recently that required a complete strip down and rebuild from the lens diaphragm upwards..... this is very fiddly. These have a much lower parts count and are less complex, so if you are handy at all, I'd give it a go.    There are illustrated parts catalogues and a video available for the 15/18x50, which is the next generation to these, so that should give you enough info to show you what to do.

 

A starting point....lots of others in the CN search-

https://www.cloudyni.../#entry13717997

Edited by exup, 23 May 2025 - 04:11 PM.

[gekanukr]

I was told there are wires going from the metal plates at the bottom and i need to check them,is it right? But i wonder if there are any wires built in the top copper plate or going from it somewhere? Should i look there as well somehow? I mean this plate:

Actually i found the manul for taking it apart

https://www.youtube....h?v=L_w9sIDBov8 is it right that i need to check only those wires on the 1:14 min here? Also i wont need to devide the device in 2 pieces like he did on the 1:45 min? Im just affraid to let even someone to take it apart a lot,not to brake some calibration of lenses for example etc. Thanks

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Edited by gekanukr, 23 May 2025 - 06:53 PM.

[exup]

It sounds like you don't understand this battery circuitry and are not confident doing repairs yourself.   Maybe you should approach a camera repair facility instead.

[celltx]

I was told there are wires going from the metal plates at the bottom and i need to check them,is it right? But i wonder if there are any wires built in the top copper plate or going from it somewhere? Should i look there as well somehow? I mean this plate:

Most probably, the top plate just serially connects negative pin of one battery to positive pin of another. Does it help if you connect them with a separate wire of foil? Just make sure you don't short the positive and negative sides of the same battery.

 

In my experience, the AA cell leakage often just appears as a fault of the battery manufacturer. In fact, the root cause is the internal circuits current leakage or short circuit that completely depletes the alkaline cells. Or buttons are indefinitely pressed causing a constant current drain - often happens when a book or something heavy is placed on top of TV remote control, for example. Once fully depleted, the cells leak. In normal use, the cells are not depleted to zero. They get replaced when the voltage drops enough for circuit to stop operation.

 

If true and the real cause for leakage is internal binocular circuits, the contact cleaning would not help.

[Bibbt]

The issue is that the batteries leaked.  Oozed.  Spread. Not just to the metal contacts the batteries were meant to...um.....contact....but beyond.  The materials behind the plates, including any connections/solder is probably also toast. 

 

Have you attempted to find out if they can be refurbished for, say, $500?  New they're almost twice that, but.....they're also new. 

Original poster asked, "Could oxidized batteries damage the binoculars internally?"

 

Absolutely it could have damaged the binocular internally!  Thats exactly what happed to some of my expensive pro camera gear I referenced earlier. When cells leak as bad as it appears these did, it can spread to places you can't see just like Inkie said. That nasty stuff outgasses too and leaves a residue on circuit boards and cause corrosion that bridges IC pins, ruins solder connections etc.  I've had gear with what looked to be minor contact corrosion but had major damage to circuit boards once I opened them up. I've thrown a handful of portable speed lights and Pocket Wizard transceivers in the trash with ruined circuit boards from what looked initially to be minor leakage.

 

The metal plate on the battery door is a simple solid piece that completes the circuit across the negative and positive ends of the two batteries.  That being said, once those little pointed contacts are corroded and the plating is removed they do a miserable job of reliably making an electrical connection.  That battery door is readily available and if you decide to tear into this binocular, you might consider replacing it because in its current condition it is going to continue to give you trouble.

 

If you've exhausted all efforts in cleaning and making sure you have good electrical connection, your next step it to open them up and see what you find. Hopefully you didn't pay too much for these binoculars.

 

Good luck and let us know what you find.

 

Bibb in  San Antonio

[gekanukr]

 Does it help if you connect them with a separate wire of foil? Just make sure you don't short the positive and negative sides of the same battery.

Can you explain in details pls what should i connect with? Thanks.
 

[Bibbt]

Can you explain in details pls what should i connect with? Thanks.
 

I believe he is recommending you make a multi layer strip of aluminum foil and use it to make the + & - connection at the battery door end.   Fold aluminum foil in a strip and place it between the end of the batteries and then shut the door. It might make electrical contact if the door contacts are the problem.   You can do a similar  thing with foil between the battery ends and contacts down in the bottom of battery chamber. It just might help make a connection if there lies the problem. Easy to do and costs nothing. 

[celltx]

I believe he is recommending you make a multi layer strip of aluminum foil and use it to make the + & - connection at the battery door end.   Fold aluminum foil in a strip and place it between the end of the batteries and then shut the door. It might make electrical contact if the door contacts are the problem.   You can do a similar  thing with foil between the battery ends and contacts down in the bottom of battery chamber. It just might help make a connection if there lies the problem. Easy to do and costs nothing. 

Yes, this is exactly what I meant. Perfect explanation!

[gekanukr]

Wires were damaged inside with oxidation ,resoldered them and its working fine now. Thanks to all.

Edited by gekanukr, 29 May 2025 - 05:44 PM.

[pat in los angeles basin]

how difficult was the access, was it the wires going to the bottom of the battery compartment?   Great  that you got it working!!   Congratulations, Pat

[Bibbt]

Wires were damaged inside with oxidation ,resoldered them and its working fine now. Thanks to all.

Fantastic news! Nice when things work out in your favor.   The same thing happens with battery cables on automobiles. They can look OK on  the outside but have all sorts of corrosion and damage under the insulation where you can't see it. They don't pass voltage and current reliably.  Causes all sorts of electrical problems and gremlins on modern cars.