8 replies to this topic

[BrickInTheSky]

As a new Vespera owner and a new astro hobbyist I went via several points with my Vespera that I hope can be useful for another novice like me. Feel free to add your observations that you found less than expected or not very intuitive.

1) Vespera now comes without a charger or a cable to charge. As per the card in the box that is some kind of EU registration. Not that I expected and not what I saw in the unboxing videos. The seller of the Vespera should make it clear and offer you to buy a charger if you want/need one. So I went to a store and grabbed one that was rated 30 watts (what the Vespera requires) only to discover, obviously at home, that it does not work because the cable I had is old and not a ‘PD’ compatible. So back to the store again and this time I got the right charger and the cable that was 30w and ‘PD’ compatible and the issue was solved.

2) If you lice in a light polluted place you will eventually succumb and buy at least CLS filter or like me you but both CLS and Dual Band. These are pricey so factor the price into your purchase decision. Filters are nice but the boxes they come in are super cheaply made, no padding, filters barely fit. Not that convenient to use so I am shopping for a better box/pouches/cases…

3) The battery goest from 100% to 85% in the 1st 5 mins of use during the initialization process. I think the power management should be recalibrated a bit or reporting should be improved. Yes, the initialization process is somewhat energy hungry but it does not (or should not) take 15% of the charge. If later I keep pointing the scope to the different targets, open and close the arm, etc: the battery is NOT loosing another 15% but maybe 5%. So I am not sure why the 1st 5 mins is so energy depleting. Maybe the autofocus is to blame. But to the end user immediate drop to 85% is a bit scary: it send a message that something is wrong and the battery will be empty in 20 mins! Hence I think the Vionis should recalibrate the reporting and ‘hide’ the initial 15% drop and report it as 5% for example and just distribute the remaining charge % over the next few hours.

4) Using hygrometer sensor (even if the heater is not engaged) takes a bit of power. Given I live in a very humid environment I bought the sensor. It works. I see the temperature and humidity but I do NOT see if the dew point was ever reached and the heater was activated. The Vionis site is wage: they say that the heater will be activated if the temperature is new the dew point: near how much? No clue. Will the app show the heater is on somewhere?

5) all the online videos showed a bubble level that is magnetically attached to the charging socket. Not any more with the Vespera 2. I got a different model that is placed between the tripod and the scope. Works well but eventually I got a better leveler that you can use to adjust the scope without the need to play with the tripod’s legs.

6) The Dual Band filter blocks a lot of light so you may face the problem that the scope is failing to initialize with the filter (CLS filter does not cause this for me). Specifically it fails to adjust the focus. Vionis site mentions that it is safe to initialize w/o the filter and then install the filter before you start the observation. It will not impact the focus (assuming you install the filter carefully and will not move the scope).

7) Mosaic mode is slow and power hungry. Way slower than the regular mode so prepare to wait longer if you want bigger picture. It is also appears that mosaic mode drains the battery faster so do not expect 4h of operation in mosaic mode. I see about 2.5h based on my very preliminary testing (with a hygrometer sensor and a Dual Band filter and a maximum size mosaic frame).

8) The blue light around the power sensor is bright! And it stays on while the unit is working. I wish the Vionis allowed us to dim it or to turn it off during operation. If you plan on leaving the unit unattended at night and someone is passing by that person will clearly see this blinking bright interesting light. You may want to consider putting something to cover it.

9) If you use smaller frame vs larger frame you still end up with the same magnification. Let’s say a galaxy is 100 by 100 pixels in a tiff image that the scope produces. It will be 100 by 100 no matter how small or large frame you select for the observation. To know in advance how big the main subject will be you can look up it’s apparent size in the Singularity app, convert it to arcsecconds and divide by 2.39 (pixel resolution of the Vespera 2). For example, Pinwheel galaxy is 22’0 (22 arc-minutes and 0 seconds) or 1320 arcsecconds. In the photo it will have a size of 552 pixes wide. Not that big but not too small. There are a lot of deep space objects that are way smaller and you get less than 109 pixels wide in the file. But there are big objects as well that will take the whole frame.

10) You can get an auto processed Jpeg from the scope and be done. The quality of such jpeg is quite decent. I used to do a lot of non-astro image processing in Photoshop and LightRoom and know a thing or two so I was expecting to easily beat the ‘auto processed’ jpeg and produce a better result but…. I failed. Apparently the astro image processing has a lot of nuances and specialized tools that I am still learning. After 2 weeks I think finally can beat the generalized algorithm. 😃 I chose not to stack individual images (hard for mosaic images) and take the stacked Tiff and post process it. For now this seems the best option for me.

11) If your observation session fails and you get a message ‘make sure the instrument can move freely’ do not get spooked: it is clouds or trees or something else that now blocks the target for too long and the scope timed out.


That is my list. The rest was just fine. Device works well, app works well. Images are very good.

I hope this helps someone.

Edited by BrickInTheSky, 29 May 2025 - 06:02 PM.

[Astronotrip]

Hei, I've had a V2 for over a year so maybe I got used to those things but nothing too constraining in my opinion. But sone good tips indeed.
 

 

1/ in EU those are very standard cables: USBS is the norm now, so probably everyone has at home. Maybe different in the US? Anyway, same trend in mobiles phones, Apple or Samsung don't give chargers.

 

2/ yes, filters are very necessary.. And don't forget the solar filter

 

3/ battery is probably the weak point of the V2. 4 hrs autonomy in good conditions. I live in Northern Europe so it's cold, humid... bought a good power bank right away (Anker 737)

 

4/ make sure it's well installed. When it's ON there should be an icon on the app. In any case if it s too humid, there s basically no point taking the scope out, will impact badly the images. 
Consider a dew shieldm quite useful against light pollution as well: https://www.thingive...m/thing:5455237

 

5/ the magnetic bubble level was on the V1 I think. I also got the '''plate'', works fine. I personally got a tripod where there is a bubble level included. I don t like to leave the Vespera ''on the floor'' with the basic tripod

 

6/ it is advised to initialise without filter. CLS should be fine and I have done it with DB as well. But you can put on the filter after initialising, it;s no pb.
Same goes for some targets that do not require the DB filter (even though they could). Ex: I could not find Helix nebula with the DB filter on.

 

7/ Mosaic mode: not sure about the battery I haven t noticed an obvious difference. It takes more time because the field is simply bigger unless you frame it to the minimum. Then it could also be your conditions (Wind/ humidity..). I haven't tested dithering now with the regular mode. I used mosaic 99% of the time because images were much better. In any case, always good to image for minium 2 hours (but I'd say 4 hours) for a good shot !

 

8/ ON/OFF button. Oh yes this is annoying !! Can;t understand that choice.. I covered it with a black post it.
There is another solution: https://www.thingive...m/thing:6580263

 

9/ native FoV is what it is. It is very good for big objects and to do big mosaics. But not that good on small objects - that's the reason why I got a Stellina... 

 

10/ in Settings: I keep jpeg (and usually keep the last one only) and the last .tif. TIF you will use to process your image in Siril/PixInsight/Aff photo.... it should'nt be too hard to beat the last jpeg. Just stretching the tif and playing with curve should be quite bettter already.

 

11/ something in the way yes or the target can be too high in the sky (I think above 80 deg it fails)

 

There are indeed some small annoying things but overall I'm also super satisfied (especially coming from Unistellar that produces awful images).

 

Some little tips:
- don't try to do many targets at once 

- stay 2 to 4 hours minimum on a target to get a good images (and with the good filter)

- try to avoid bad conditions, even if the sky is clear and you see humidity and stars are blurry, forget it - especially if you re doing a MultiNight, it will ruin it all

- avoid the Moon unless  you re using a DB filter (so change your target to a nebula as galaxies don't require DB)

- get a good power bank !
... some more tips and accessories I use with my V2 (Eng translation button at the top of the articles)

- some of my pictures

AND >>> my own discount code (-10% on everything including accessories - after the spring sale, so after the 31st of May as you can't combine 2 discounts)

[bradhaak]

In general, I agree with what Astronotrip said, but there are few points I would emphasize.

 

2 - Filters should be considered a part of the purchase price of any telescope. Yeah, there is an astronomical filter included in the Seestar, but I find it too narrow for light pollution, and too wide for some nebulas, so I had to buy another one, anyway. Also, When I bought my V2, I got the light pollution filter and have never used it even though I live in a Bortle 8 suburb. So, I recommend not buying it unless you find that you need it. As far as storage is concerned, look at the Vespera filter cases here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/AstroExtras.

 

3 - I consider an external battery to be a required part of every smart scope as well as every electronic 'dumb' scope I've ever owned. I've never owned one that could run all night with it's internal battery. Hook it up to a decent battery and remove any concerns about it dying during a capture. I use this one in my Vespera 2, both Seestars, my Dwarf 3, and my Vaonis Stellina. It's inexpensive, small, and lasts at least one night (depending on the scope). https://www.amazon.c...in_title_3&th=1

 

5 - The videos that show the bubble level are of the original Vespera. When I bought my Vespera 2, right after it came out, I bought one of those levels. It plugged into the USB port of the OG Vespera and wouldn't even attach to my V2. Now, I (along with a bunch of folks on this board) use a leveling base between the tripod and the Vespera 2. You just set the tripod up close to level and use the leveling head to get it right. It's faster and easier than fighting the tripod legs. This is what I'm talking about. There are about a dozen companies selling them for different prices, but they're all the same thing and probably from the same factory and production line. https://www.amazon.c...aWxfdGhlbWF0aWM

 

6 - Yes, absolutely initialize without a filter, and if you need it, put it in when you select a target. The V2 refocuses as part of its aiming process.

 

7 - Mosaic mode may indeed use more power. It's more computation intensive and it moves the scope more than tracking a single location. So refer to my answer number 3 above. Use an external battery and it just won't matter whether it does or doesn't use more power.

 

9 - for Astronotrip - That's what I love about my Stellina, too. The tight FOV combined with the 80mm aperture and field derotator is amazing!

 

10 - If you're interested in learning about processing linear captures, turn on the TIFF. It will be almost black and learning to turn it into a usable image is a whole different processing world, but it is what's needed to get the best images. It's way beyond the scope of this reply to get into it, though. The final step down this path to insanity is to enable saving individual subs and restacking them yourself. There are enough posts elsewhere on this board and in YouTube videos that you can explore and decide if you want to play at that level. It's fun, rewarding, and inevitably frustrating. But at the end will let you produce something you can be proud of.

 

Good luck!

[BrickInTheSky]

In general, I agree with what Astronotrip said, but there are few points I would emphasize.

 

2 - Filters should be considered a part of the purchase price of any telescope. Yeah, there is an astronomical filter included in the Seestar, but I find it too narrow for light pollution, and too wide for some nebulas, so I had to buy another one, anyway. Also, When I bought my V2, I got the light pollution filter and have never used it even though I live in a Bortle 8 suburb. So, I recommend not buying it unless you find that you need it. As far as storage is concerned, look at the Vespera filter cases here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/AstroExtras.

 

3 - I consider an external battery to be a required part of every smart scope as well as every electronic 'dumb' scope I've ever owned. I've never owned one that could run all night with it's internal battery. Hook it up to a decent battery and remove any concerns about it dying during a capture. I use this one in my Vespera 2, both Seestars, my Dwarf 3, and my Vaonis Stellina. It's inexpensive, small, and lasts at least one night (depending on the scope). https://www.amazon.c...in_title_3&th=1

 

5 - The videos that show the bubble level are of the original Vespera. When I bought my Vespera 2, right after it came out, I bought one of those levels. It plugged into the USB port of the OG Vespera and wouldn't even attach to my V2. Now, I (along with a bunch of folks on this board) use a leveling base between the tripod and the Vespera 2. You just set the tripod up close to level and use the leveling head to get it right. It's faster and easier than fighting the tripod legs. This is what I'm talking about. There are about a dozen companies selling them for different prices, but they're all the same thing and probably from the same factory and production line. https://www.amazon.c...aWxfdGhlbWF0aWM

 

6 - Yes, absolutely initialize without a filter, and if you need it, put it in when you select a target. The V2 refocuses as part of its aiming process.

 

7 - Mosaic mode may indeed use more power. It's more computation intensive and it moves the scope more than tracking a single location. So refer to my answer number 3 above. Use an external battery and it just won't matter whether it does or doesn't use more power.

 

9 - for Astronotrip - That's what I love about my Stellina, too. The tight FOV combined with the 80mm aperture and field derotator is amazing!

 

10 - If you're interested in learning about processing linear captures, turn on the TIFF. It will be almost black and learning to turn it into a usable image is a whole different processing world, but it is what's needed to get the best images. It's way beyond the scope of this reply to get into it, though. The final step down this path to insanity is to enable saving individual subs and restacking them yourself. There are enough posts elsewhere on this board and in YouTube videos that you can explore and decide if you want to play at that level. It's fun, rewarding, and inevitably frustrating. But at the end will let you produce something you can be proud of.

 

Good luck!

2) thanks for the link to the Etsy: did not come up in my searches. I am waiting for the boxes from Amazon but if I do not like them I will try these custom made from Etsy. 
 

glad that we agree on the filters. I had arrived at the same conclusion that I must have them. Solar one: did not purchase cause unless Vionis makes H-Alpha solar filter I am not that interested in the regular one. Maybe I will change my opinion but for now this is how I feel. 
 

3) yea, will probably get a ln external battery but for now my sessions are shorter than 3-4 hours so I am fine. Although I live in somewhat safe neighborhood, and my backyard is private I am not that keen on leaving the unit overnight unattended. Primarily because of the rains: I am in sub tropical climate and we have very sudden massive rains that I am sure will destroy the scope. 
 

5) Leveler: yep, got the same. Great option for these scopes. 
 

10) yes, I use the Tiff option. Let the scope do the stacking. Then I take over with GraXpert, Siril, Cosmic Clarity. For now I am using free tools. Maybe eventually get something else. 
 

thanks for your support!

[bradhaak]

glad that we agree on the filters. I had arrived at the same conclusion that I must have them. Solar one: did not purchase cause unless Vionis makes H-Alpha solar filter I am not that interested in the regular one. Maybe I will change my opinion but for now this is how I feel. 

 

thanks for your support!

I bought the solar filter and have never used it because I decided that if there's an opportunity to burn out a sensor, I'd rather it be the one in the Seestar because it will only cost a third as much to replace.

 

And no, I've never heard of any scopes being damaged without extreme stupidity on the part of the user, but (1) I'm very capable of extreme stupidity at any given moment, and( 2) with my luck the solar filter will have a mechanical failure during use. 

[chrisecurtis]

Some pretty good points and tips in this thread. The power of sharing experience. I've had my V2 for over a year. I'd just add:

• I don't worry about getting the scope level. I have a small bubble level on my tripod legs and as long as the bubble is not touching the edge of the level, I'm good to go. I've had no problems using the V2 when I've just adjusted the tripod "by hand" so the scope looks vertical when I walk around it.
• I've don't use filters at all in my Bortle 5 suburban skies. I suspect any general light pollution filter will not make a huge difference where most light pollution is LED sourced as it is here. I'd quite like a dual band filter so I can do more on moonlit nights.
• A good power pack is essential. I have a Jackery explorer 100, which is overkill but simply removes power anxiety completely (and it's robust and waterproof)
• I'm about a mile from the sea in two directions. The humidity sensor and dew heater work brilliantly but are power hungry: another reason for getting a power pack.
• The V2 does not have enough storage to go all night if I save all the fits, but if I set it to save the final tif only (which is best if I am doing mosaics) I could go for weeks.

[NC Startrekker]

The Vespera II, along with the Singularity app, is certainly one of, if not the most refined smart telescopes currently available. Unfortunately it is handicapped by at least three shortcomings that Vaonis could (and should) have easily and cheaply rectified prior to releasing:

1) Battery life. Inexplicably, they even back stepped by using a lower amp hour rated battery in the V2 than they did in the original Vespera. 

2) Memory. Come on 24MB??? Memory is exceedingly cheap. Too much so to let this be a reason someone passes on buying this scope. 
3) That blasted blue power button ring! It’s too bright even if it were red, which it should have been anyway. 

Edited by NC Startrekker, 10 June 2025 - 02:58 PM.

[BrickInTheSky]

The Vespera II, along with the Singularity app, is certainly one of, if not the most refined smart telescopes currently available. Unfortunately it is handicapped by at least three shortcomings that Vaonis could (and should) have easily and cheaply rectified prior to releasing:

1) Battery life. Inexplicably, they even back stepped by using a lower amp hour rated battery in the V2 than they did in the original Vespera. 

2) Memory. Come on 24MB??? Memory is exceedingly cheap. Too much so to let this be a reason someone passes on buying this scope. 
3) That blasted blue power button ring! It’s too bright even if it were red, which it should have been anyway. 

It  totally agree on the item 3 but the items 1 and 2 would kill the Vespera Pro sales.  It is not about the cost of the batteries or memory. It is about partitioning the market to drive some buyers to the most pricier model that makes the most profit for the company.  

[Astronotrip]

The Vespera II, along with the Singularity app, is certainly one of, if not the most refined smart telescopes currently available. Unfortunately it is handicapped by at least three shortcomings that Vaonis could (and should) have easily and cheaply rectified prior to releasing:

1) Battery life. Inexplicably, they even back stepped by using a lower amp hour rated battery in the V2 than they did in the original Vespera. 

2) Memory. Come on 24MB??? Memory is exceedingly cheap. Too much so to let this be a reason someone passes on buying this scope. 
3) That blasted blue power button ring! It’s too bright even if it were red, which it should have been anyway. 

3/ Fully agree, totally stupid blue light... I just have no words. At least sell an accessory to hide it

 

1/ sad but easily fixed with an external 100eur battery (Anker 737 in my case)

2/ never been even close to the limit, even with 5 multi nights... yes it's low but more than enough.

Edited by Astronotrip, 11 June 2025 - 09:00 AM.