Hi all. I thought I'd try here first, realizing that many will say to either call Kevin or send them to Suddarth.
Here's the situation. I own Oberwerk 22x100 binoculars and I sent them to Suddarth in April for collimation and cleaning. USPS lost them for a few weeks in transit to be serviced. Suddarth serviced them and sent them back via FedEx. Fedex destroyed the Oberwerk hard case and knocked the binos out of vertical collimation. Fedex informed me that the sender would have to file a claim. I sent photos to Suddarth so that they could file a claim with Fedex. I suspect that claim process may take a while...
As it stands this binocular is not usable. Though Suddarth has a policy that they will correct the collimation at no cost (other than shipping) I am loath to go through further shipping hassles at my expense.
Now to my question, is there a user-capable way to vertically collimate this binocular? If so, I'd love to get your advice.
Thank you.
You could probably rotate one or both objectives using a spanner wrench in slots that are likely present on the objective rings (or a pin spanner, probably 1-2mm, if there are holes instead of slots) and this would likely alter the vertical collimation. However, it is one thing to get collimation good enough for daylight use but it is much more difficult to get collimation on the stars at 22x that will be completely free of all traces of a double star image.
I did this with 20x80s and daytime viewing is fine. Nighttime astronomical viewing is mostly fine but I wouldn't use them for double star observation as in spite of my very best repeated efforts I remain very very minimally off of perfect vertical collimation. On the other hand, I was completely successful collimating my BT-82 and I can use that for double star work all night long. So, I think there is some luck involved if you aren't a professional collimator.
I think you need a professional collimation if you want to use those 22x100s for astronomy. It appears that they got some really rough handling in shipping. I suspect that sometimes both objective rotation and prism adjustment are needed to get a perfect collimation. Unfortunately I can't get access to the prism adjustment screws in my 20x80s without ruining the protective plastic coating.
Rick