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Oberwerk 22x100 vertical collimation question

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#1 holdt

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Posted 30 May 2025 - 12:04 PM

Hi all.  I thought I'd try here first, realizing that many will say to either call Kevin or send them to Suddarth.

 

Here's the situation.  I own Oberwerk 22x100 binoculars and I sent them to Suddarth in April for collimation and cleaning.  USPS lost them for a few weeks in transit to be serviced.  Suddarth serviced them and sent them back via FedEx.  Fedex destroyed the Oberwerk hard case and knocked the binos out of vertical collimation.  Fedex informed me that the sender would have to file a claim.  I sent photos to Suddarth so that they could file a claim with Fedex.  I suspect that claim process may take a while...

 

As it stands this binocular is not usable.  Though Suddarth has a policy that they will correct the collimation at no cost (other than shipping) I am loath to go through further shipping hassles at my expense.

 

Now to my question, is there a user-capable way to vertically collimate this binocular?  If so, I'd love to get your advice.

 

Thank you.

 

 

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#2 sevenofnine

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Posted 30 May 2025 - 12:46 PM

I recommend calling Kevin to see if these collimation instructions apply to your binos.

Good luck! borg.gif

 

https://oberwerk.com...-the-xl-series/.


Edited by sevenofnine, 30 May 2025 - 05:59 PM.


#3 holdt

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Posted 30 May 2025 - 01:21 PM

The Oberwerk 22x100 has objective lock-rings requiring an optical spanner wrench with points at 90 degrees to the Optosigma NRS-150 mentioned on the page from Oberwerk linked above.



#4 JoeFaz

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Posted 30 May 2025 - 01:35 PM

That's peculiar. I've never seen rings with notches oriented that way (one would think it either wouldn't work at all, or at least would work very poorly...). Could you show a picture of the objective retaining rings? Some spanners have points rather than flat edges which might work?



#5 Chuck2

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Posted 30 May 2025 - 02:09 PM

Unfortunate circumstances. In the long run, FedEx left you with un-usable binoculars in a destroyed case.

 

Were these binos fully insured? If so, FedEx should reimburse you sufficient funds cover the full replacement cost of a like model.

If not, I think $100 is standard insurance, not enough to cover collimation fees, shipping charges and replacement case.

 

Curious, why didn’t you send these back to Oberwerk for collimation?



#6 DaveL

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Posted 30 May 2025 - 04:08 PM

This is why they were sent to Suddarth: from the Oberwerk website:

 

"Oberwerk has partnered with Suddarth Optical Repair for out-of-warranty repair of Oberwerk binoculars. Suddarth Optical Repair is regarded by many as the finest binocular repair shop in the USA."

 

Link


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#7 revans

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Posted 30 May 2025 - 07:02 PM

Hi all.  I thought I'd try here first, realizing that many will say to either call Kevin or send them to Suddarth.

 

Here's the situation.  I own Oberwerk 22x100 binoculars and I sent them to Suddarth in April for collimation and cleaning.  USPS lost them for a few weeks in transit to be serviced.  Suddarth serviced them and sent them back via FedEx.  Fedex destroyed the Oberwerk hard case and knocked the binos out of vertical collimation.  Fedex informed me that the sender would have to file a claim.  I sent photos to Suddarth so that they could file a claim with Fedex.  I suspect that claim process may take a while...

 

As it stands this binocular is not usable.  Though Suddarth has a policy that they will correct the collimation at no cost (other than shipping) I am loath to go through further shipping hassles at my expense.

 

Now to my question, is there a user-capable way to vertically collimate this binocular?  If so, I'd love to get your advice.

 

Thank you.

You could probably rotate one or both objectives using a spanner wrench in slots that are likely present on the objective rings (or a pin spanner, probably 1-2mm,  if there are holes instead of slots) and this would likely alter the vertical collimation.  However, it is one thing to get collimation good enough for daylight use but it is much more difficult to get collimation on the stars at 22x that will be completely free of all traces of a double star image.

 

I did this with 20x80s and daytime viewing is fine.  Nighttime astronomical viewing is mostly fine but I wouldn't use them for double star observation as in spite of my very best repeated efforts I remain very very minimally off of perfect vertical collimation.  On the other hand, I was completely successful collimating my BT-82 and I can use that for double star work all night long.  So, I think there is some luck involved if you aren't a professional collimator.

 

I think you need a professional collimation if you want to use those 22x100s for astronomy. It appears that they got some really rough handling in shipping.  I suspect that sometimes both objective rotation and prism adjustment are needed to get a perfect collimation.  Unfortunately I can't get access to the prism adjustment screws in my 20x80s without ruining the protective plastic coating. 

 

Rick



#8 holdt

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Posted 31 May 2025 - 11:48 AM

That's peculiar. I've never seen rings with notches oriented that way (one would think it either wouldn't work at all, or at least would work very poorly...). Could you show a picture of the objective retaining rings? Some spanners have points rather than flat edges which might work?

Hi JoeFaz, I've got a treat for you, something you've never seen before. And yes, these rings take a pointed spanner.

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#9 pat in los angeles basin

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Posted 31 May 2025 - 12:35 PM

I suspect NOT pointed is preferred! a 2mm hole perhaps? So a 2mm FLAT ended pin will impart no damage to the threads that a point may attempt to ride. Both will probably work at least the first time.I hope the alignment works out for you. If and when you get round to doing it, be aware that the IPD should be set for the primary user then commence with the alignment. Others will probably be compromised to a greater or lesser degree.   Regards, Pat



#10 Chuck2

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Posted 31 May 2025 - 01:55 PM

This is why they were sent to Suddarth: from the Oberwerk website:

 

"Oberwerk has partnered with Suddarth Optical Repair for out-of-warranty repair of Oberwerk binoculars. Suddarth Optical Repair is regarded by many as the finest binocular repair shop in the USA."

 

Link

thanx.gif

I missed that on Oberwerks website, makes sense, both businesses benefit.


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#11 holdt

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Posted 31 May 2025 - 02:57 PM

I suspect NOT pointed is preferred! a 2mm hole perhaps? So a 2mm FLAT ended pin will impart no damage to the threads that a point may attempt to ride. Both will probably work at least the first time.I hope the alignment works out for you. If and when you get round to doing it, be aware that the IPD should be set for the primary user then commence with the alignment. Others will probably be compromised to a greater or lesser degree.   Regards, Pat

Hmmm,  the spanner holes measure 1.5mm; a 2mm spanner would not work.  The thread spacing is 1mm and it is my impression that a flat ended spanner would deform the threads, whereas a pointed end would ride down in the thread.  But hey, I asked for advice so it is on me to check that advice before diving in.  Thanks for the suggestion.



#12 pat in los angeles basin

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Posted 31 May 2025 - 03:04 PM

 ok , I was wrong 1.5 mm it is ...Happy? Just saying don't distort  the underlaying threaded portion as there's no need to hit the threads. Good  fortune on getting a usable bino out of the repair. Regards, Pat



#13 Rich V.

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Posted 02 June 2025 - 02:37 PM

As it stands this binocular is not usable.  Though Suddarth has a policy that they will correct the collimation at no cost (other than shipping) I am loath to go through further shipping hassles at my expense.

 

Now to my question, is there a user-capable way to vertically collimate this binocular?  If so, I'd love to get your advice.

 

Thank you.

If you "collimate" your binos at home, you'll most likely not achieve true collimation like Suddarth did.  At best, you'll reach a point of "conditional alignment" dependend on the IPD setting.  

 

Since your binos were banged around and handled roughly, there's a high likelihood a prism has been knocked out of position.  The normal alignment convention (eccentrics or prism tilt) may not provide enough correction to get your bino properly aligned again without internal work on the prism.  Eccentrics don't usually get knocked out of alignment easily by shock, but prisms sure do,

 

I suggest Suddarth is the only way to get them properly repaired but double box the binos and pack the heck out of them with bubble wrap.  I wouldn't ship the case this time.  Use that space for good, solid packing instead. 



#14 holdt

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Posted 03 June 2025 - 12:48 PM

If you "collimate" your binos at home, you'll most likely not achieve true collimation like Suddarth did.  At best, you'll reach a point of "conditional alignment" dependend on the IPD setting.  

 

Since your binos were banged around and handled roughly, there's a high likelihood a prism has been knocked out of position.  The normal alignment convention (eccentrics or prism tilt) may not provide enough correction to get your bino properly aligned again without internal work on the prism.  Eccentrics don't usually get knocked out of alignment easily by shock, but prisms sure do,

 

I suggest Suddarth is the only way to get them properly repaired but double box the binos and pack the heck out of them with bubble wrap.  I wouldn't ship the case this time.  Use that space for good, solid packing instead. 

Thank you Rich.  I am coming to think that this collimation is beyond my ability.  And, your explanation of the internals makes sense in light of what Suddarth said about them likely being damaged beyond just collimation.

 

I had double boxed them with multiple layers of bubble wrap on all six sides for the outbound trip.  They came back with no packing under the hard case inside the cardboard shipping box, just bubble wrap around the four sides and closed-cell foam on top.  Next time I ship them I will repeat my packing procedures, then, I will pick them up once repaired and collimated.



#15 Rich V.

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Posted 03 June 2025 - 03:33 PM

You might want to have a conversation with Suddarth about the packing; I'd want the binos returned with the exact same boxes and packing materials/ method as I sent them. Perhaps things can get a bit disorganized because they are so busy.  Write your name on the boxes.  wink.gif

 

I had a bino package returned from them to me many years ago that was only single boxed with peanuts and the box was just hanging together by a thread after being smashed by the shipper.  Luckily, it was a Fuji FMT which is built like a tank and no harm was done.

 

After the one bad experience, a good talk with them about maximum packing doesn't sound unreasonable.  Many binos won't take rough handling well and you never know what will happen.




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