129 replies to this topic

[Sarkikos]

Yesterday I received my new Mewlon 180C, the first DK I've ever owned.  I ordered it last November from Agena Astro when they were on sale.  But they quickly became out of stock until now.   Agena Astro followed through, and I was finally able to get the 180C at the sales price.  Thanks, Agena Astro! 

 

Here are pics of the scope and the box(es) it came in.  This is as close as I'll ever get to an unboxing video. 

 

Now, as with any new scope I receive, I'm immediately thinking about possible improvements and additions.  Any ideas or comments?

 

Mike

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Edited by Sarkikos, 14 June 2025 - 11:49 AM.

[oninoyakamo]

Were it me, I'd buy Svbony's cheap 7-21mm SV135 Zoom, the W9105D model, for some fun on SSOs and double stars.

[Sarkikos]

Two obvious additions are a RACI finder and laser finder.  The 180C comes with a built-in 6x30 straight-through finder.  But I don't like straight-throughs because of the uncomfortable positions they put me in when I'm star hopping toward zenith.  They are a literal pain in the neck.  I don't enjoy pain.  I avoid it whenever possible. 

 

I was hoping I could remove the 6x30 straight-through from the finder bracket and replace it with a 6x30 RACI or a laser finder.  But it looks like this would be impossible.  The Tak finder is literally built into the finder bracket.   Here's a pic of the end of the Tak finder.

 

Also, I don't see how I'd be able to remove the finder and bracket.  No screws are visible.  I'd probably have to take off the back cover to access the screws.  I'll avoid that for the time being.  

 

So, it looks like I'll be keeping the Tak finder.  At the least, it will be useful as a handle. 

 

On the other hand, straight-through finders are fine for initially aligning the scope to Polaris, useful if the mount tracks and has goto.  I'm not sure, though, if the 180C would fit on my Evolution.  My C9.25 fits, but barely, and the 180C is a little longer than the C9.25, though the 180C is lighter.

 

Straight-through finders are also OK if all you're going to view is the Moon or bright planets.  Even in that case, a correct image straight-through would be better.  

 

Now, where can I mount Synta-style finder bases for the RACI and the laser finder?   There is a screw at edge of the back plate close at the left of the Tak finder.  I could attach a base for the laser finder there.  A base for a RACI could be placed at the screw that's farther to the right of the Tak finder.  

 

Keep in mind that I want to attach the 180C at the left side of my DM6.  That's where I like to have my scopes, at the left of a mount, rather than on the right side.

 

Mike

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Edited by Sarkikos, 15 June 2025 - 07:45 AM.

[Sarkikos]

Here's the 180C on my DM6.  I've attached a Synta-style finder base on top of the mount, where it will move with the scope.  A laser finder could go here.

 

Mike

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[Sarkikos]

The 180C comes with a Vixen dovetail attached.   I'd like to replace this with a Losmandy-D plate.  In the meantime, I'm using a Vixen adapter on the DM6. 

 

Here are the Losmandy-D plates I had in my garage.  The short one has the wrong spacing for the screws.  Another one doesn't have screw holes where I need them.  The last two are pretty much identical with each other, one being a Losmandy and the other one an Apertura.  Either would work, but they are overkill for what I need.  Maybe I should shop for a shorter one.

 

Mike

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Edited by Sarkikos, 14 June 2025 - 12:14 PM.

[Sarkikos]

Were it me, I'd buy Svbony's cheap 7-21mm SV135 Zoom, the W9105D model, for some fun on SSOs and double stars.

I have no need for any more eyepieces.  I already have plenty.  I don't put them in the sig, because the sig can only hold so much.

 

Mike

[Andrea Salati]

Congratulations, I am sure you will have lots of fun using it. Let us know.
And kudos to Agena Astro that honored the sale not just "while supplies last".

[Sarkikos]

There is also the option of converting the Tak straight-through finder into a RACI.  Amazon and Teleskop-Service have adapters for this.  

 

https://www.amazon.c...oding=UTF8&th=1

 

https://www.teleskop...lar-finder-5224

 

Anyone familiar with these?  The one at Amazon can be switched between 1x and 2x.  The T-S one switches between 1x and 2.5x.  At least according to the descriptions.  Otherwise, they look the same to me.

 

Mike

[oninoyakamo]

I'm not sure, though, if the 180C would fit on my Evolution.  My C9.25 fits, but barely, and the 180C is a little longer than the C9.25, though the 180C is lighter.

I use my Evo mount with Meade's 7" MCT, which is slightly longer than your Mewlon. Because its internal counter-weight has been removed the mount can handle the weight, but the heavy front meniscus has it sit too far back in the saddle for viewing anything higher than ~60° without a wedge.

[Sarkikos]

I don't like the soft cover for the end of the scope.  Because it is soft.  I always think about what could happen.  What could happen, is that as I take the scope in or out of the house, a doorknob - or something else - could go through the soft cover and hit the secondary or spider vanes.  I value function above form.  

 

Is there any hard cover replacement available?  

 

Mike

[bobhen]

I believe if you can take the back plate off, the screws that hold the finder bracket are now accessible. You could then add a Synta finder shoe and a finder bracket and right angle finder. You will have to re-collimate but it should only be off a smidgin – if that. 

 

You might want to consider an aftermarket rear-mounted focuser. Like with SCTs, that would eliminate any image shift when focusing.

 

Acclamation is important with Mewlons, especially for high power observing. Just because they have an open tube does not mean that they don't need plenty of time to acclimate. Some use insertion coolers, like the Cosmic One cooler by Lymax.  Others just leave the scope out for a few hours before using. 

 

Bob

[Sarkikos]

I use my Evo mount with Meade's 7" MCT, which is slightly longer than your Mewlon. Because its internal counter-weight has been removed the mount can handle the weight, but the heavy front meniscus has it sit too far back in the saddle for viewing anything higher than ~60° without a wedge.

Yeah, I would not like to limit my viewing to 60 degrees.  I want to be able to view from horizon to zenith.  Also, no wedge for me.

 

Unless someone chimes in who has used the 180C on an Evolution, I'd just have to try for myself sometime.  

 

Mike

[Sarkikos]

I believe if you can take the back plate off, the screws that hold the finder bracket are now accessible. You could then add a Synta finder shoe and a finder bracket and right angle finder. You will have to re-collimate but it should only be off a smidgin – if that. 

 

You might want to consider an aftermarket rear-mounted focuser. Like with SCTs, that would eliminate any image shift when focusing.

 

Acclamation is important with Mewlons, especially for high power observing. Just because they have an open tube does not mean that they don't need plenty of time to acclimate. Some use insertion coolers, like the Cosmic One cooler by Lymax.  Others just leave the scope out for a few hours before using. 

 

Bob

Yep, I figured I'd have to remove the back plate to access the finder bracket screws to remove it.  I might do that eventually.  But I want to use the scope as-is a few times before I take off the back plate and remove the Tak finder.  On the other hand, I might just leave it on as a convenient handle and a straight-through for Moon and bright planets.   

 

I've never had an SCT or Mak that had appreciable image shift.  If there was any, I didn't notice it because it didn't affect my viewing.  I don't image.  So, I never had a desire or need for a rear-mounted focuser.  I kind of like the little focuser knobs on these Cats.  Though, I can see replacing the visual back with a nice Baader one.

 

I might get a Cosmic Cooler for quicker, more thorough acclimation.  

 

Since this scope has an open tube, would there be any sense in wrapping it with Reflex?  I really don't see that it would be worthwhile.  It would be an unnecessary hassle.  Does anyone wrap their solid tube Newts with Reflectix? 

 

Mike

Edited by Sarkikos, 14 June 2025 - 01:00 PM.

[Sarkikos]

The 180C came with a saddle for attachment to a Tak GEM.   I don't have a Tak GEM, and don't plan on ever acquiring a GEM of any type.  I'll bag and tag this saddle and store it in the garage.

 

Mike

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[Sarkikos]

I assume the three screws that attach the back plate to the scope are simple screw in / screw out affairs, with no nuts on the inside of the tube.   Correct?   (I don't see how it could be otherwise, but I've seen some screwy things on some telescopes.)

 

I don't want hardware falling into the tube.  I want to remove one or two of the screws to attach Synta finder bases.

 

Here is the type of finder base I'd put on the tube.

 

Mike

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Edited by Sarkikos, 14 June 2025 - 12:59 PM.

[Sarkikos]

The manual said that a 2.5mm hex key was included for collimation.  I didn't see one in the box.  But that's OK.  I have one of these:

 

Mike

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[lwbehney]

Sarkikos, congratulations on acquiring the Mewlon 180c at this fabulous price.  I see from your signature line that you have an Edge 8 SCT and an SCT 9.25.  I am hoping to learn how these three telescopes compare to one another on M 13 and other globular star clusters. And later this year, I am sure everyone who has contemplated owning a Mewlon, will want to know how those telescopes compare on the Moon and on Saturn. I was able to compare it to a C11 on an open star cluster and I felt the macroscopic contrast of the Mewlon was a little bit better than the C 11, but I believe the Edge SCT is a big upgrade from its forebears and I have never compared an Edge side by side to my Mewlon.

 

In direct response to your topic question, I can only answer your question regarding my Mewlon 210, which might apply due to the similar design. I upgraded my µ210 with a Moonlite manual focuser due to some mirror shift, which could slightly tilt the primary mirror and affect perfect collimation. I found that over a few months time, that the mirror shift seemed to lessen and my supposition is that the grease gradually spread evenly between the threads of the focus mechanism with use. The Moonlite focuser worked OK for small eyepieces, but suffered from a little bit of sag with the heavier two inch eyepieces. 

[lwbehney]

I assume the three screws that attach the back plate to the scope are simple screw in / screw out affairs, with no nuts on the inside of the tube.   Correct?   (I don't see how it could be otherwise, but I've seen some screwy things on some telescopes.)

 

I don't want hardware falling into the tube.  I want to remove one or two of the screws to attach Synta finder bases.

 

Here is the type of finder base I'd put on the tube.

 

Mike

Correct. There are no nuts holding the back plate, just three metal screws with fairly tight specifications, such that very little if any fine tuning of collimation is needed after reassembly following cleaning of the primary mirror, which is occasionally necessary if you live in a humid climate. 

[Sarkikos]

Sarkikos, congratulations on acquiring the Mewlon 180c at this fabulous price.  I see from your signature line that you have an Edge 8 SCT and an SCT 9.25.  I am hoping to learn how these three telescopes compare to one another on M 13 and other globular star clusters. And later this year, I am sure everyone who has contemplated owning a Mewlon, will want to know how those telescopes compare on the Moon and on Saturn. I was able to compare it to a C11 on an open star cluster and I felt the macroscopic contrast of the Mewlon was a little bit better than the C 11, but I believe the Edge SCT is a big upgrade from its forebears and I have never compared an Edge side by side to my Mewlon.

 

In direct response to your topic question, I can only answer your question regarding my Mewlon 210, which might apply due to the similar design. I upgraded my µ210 with a Moonlite manual focuser due to some mirror shift, which could slightly tilt the primary mirror and affect perfect collimation. I found that over a few months time, that the mirror shift seemed to lessen and my supposition is that the grease gradually spread evenly between the threads of the focus mechanism with use. The Moonlite focuser worked OK for small eyepieces, but suffered from a little bit of sag with the heavier two inch eyepieces. 

One advantage that the 8" EdgeHD would have over the 180C, is the flat field of the Edge.  I have read that the Mewlons have some field curvature.

 

There is a reducer/corrector available from Tak for the 180C.  Would this be compatible with visual?  I have no desire to image.

 

Mirror shift would affect collimation.  That would be a legitimate reason for me to get a manual focuser.  AFAIK, Moonlite no longer provides manual focusers.  But I'll let that alone for now, until I see how my 180C behaves in the field.  

 

A nice Baader visual back would be nice, though.

 

Mike

[Sarkikos]

Here is a link to the Takahashi 0.8x R/C for the 180C.  https://astronomics....Pk7whf15rbMMaRi

 

It flattens the field as well as further reduces coma.

 

The description doesn't mention use for visual, which is the only use I would want from it.   I have zero interest in taking pics.  

 

Mike

[Sarkikos]

In a thread from 2020, Xeroid recommends a couple Baader parts for replacing the visual back.  https://www.cloudyni...ies/?p=10180605

 

https://agenaastro.c...ad-2956272.html

 

https://agenaastro.c...dapter-2558231/

 

Mike

[Brollen]

I assume the three screws that attach the back plate to the scope are simple screw in / screw out affairs, with no nuts on the inside of the tube.   Correct?   (I don't see how it could be otherwise, but I've seen some screwy things on some telescopes.)

 

I don't want hardware falling into the tube.  I want to remove one or two of the screws to attach Synta finder bases.

 

Here is the type of finder base I'd put on the tube.

 

Mike

I also wanted to attach finder shoes on my first Mew 180c and unscrewed those screws with some angst. They turned out to be quite short - may have changed on my new 180c - and no nuts on the inner tube to worry about. But again this was on my older 180c …

 

So I was able to attach finder shoes on that Mew, but I am not doing this with my new 180c. Instead I use it on my NoH CT-20 mount, with a frac on the left, 180c on the right. The frac (one of my 3 fracs) provides the optimal “finder” and wide field scope allowing me to view to the 180c’s strengths. Also the 30mm finder that Tak provides with the 180c is quite a bit better than any RACI scope typically had — it is very sharp with great clarity.

 

I don’t like mounting the 180c on the “left” as you do — this orientation places the focuser knob at the 12 o’clock position and getting to it with a tall EP or binos is a hassle. Mounting the 180c on the “right” places the focuser knob at the 6 o’clock position — under the diagonal — which is much easier to reach for focusing adjustments. 

Edited by Brollen, 14 June 2025 - 01:41 PM.

[MorseHomology]

Yeah, I would not like to limit my viewing to 60 degrees.  I want to be able to view from horizon to zenith.  Also, no wedge for me.

 

Unless someone chimes in who has used the 180C on an Evolution, I'd just have to try for myself sometime.  

 

Mike

 

I've only used my 180C on the evo mount. It works fine to the zenith. You have to take the plastic shroud which surrounds the clamp off, and you might have to fiddle a bit with the clamp adjustment screws to make it match the 180C's dovetail size (which is a mm or two smaller than standard Vixen size), but it works just fine. Balance is fine, unlike a C8 all the weight is to the rear. 

None of the takahashi field flatteners/focal reducers work with a diagonal. Photography only. It would be nice to have something like the 6.3 reducer for the C8 for the Mewlon, but you have to make do with screw on eyepiece reducers.

Edited by MorseHomology, 14 June 2025 - 02:23 PM.

[Sarkikos]

I've only used my 180C on the evo mount. It works fine to the zenith. You have to take the plastic shroud which surrounds the clamp off, and you might have to fiddle a bit with the clamp adjustment screws to make it match the 180C's dovetail size (which is a mm or two smaller than standard Vixen size), but it works just fine. Balance is fine, unlike a C8 all the weight is to the rear. 

None of the takahashi field flatteners/focal reducers work with a diagonal. Photography only. It would be nice to have something like the 6.3 reducer for the C8 for the Mewlon, but you have to make do with screw on eyepiece reducers.

Yes, I found out that the 180C's dovetail is a little narrower than standard Vixen dovetails.  I had attached an Orion Losmandy-to-Vixen adapter to the DM6.  (I bought it for cheap during the High Point Scientific sale.)   The 180C dovetail was a little too narrow to be secured.  I had to revert back to the DM6 adapter, which did hold the 180C dovetail securely.  For this reason, I might replace the 180C dovetail with a standard Vixen dovetail.  Then I could use the scope in the Evolution and the DM6 without having to swap between a Losmandy-D plate and a Vixen dovetail, and also not bothering with the DM6 adapter, which is a hassle, using the Orion adapter instead.  The 180C is actually pretty light, and might not even be improved much if at all by using a Losmandy-D.

 

The main function I would want from an FF/FR for the 180C, is the field flattening function.  Too bad there is none available for visual.  I wonder if a 0.63x FF/FR for an SCT, or an FF for a refractor, would work on the 180C.  Probably not.

 

Mike

Edited by Sarkikos, 14 June 2025 - 07:48 PM.

[Sarkikos]

The sky has been cloudy with intermittent rain since I received the 180C yesterday.  The forecast is clouds and rain throughout the next week.  The New Scope Curse is in effect!  

 

Mike

Edited by Sarkikos, 14 June 2025 - 07:45 PM.