16 replies to this topic

[BigBabich]

I'm still a newb re: astrophotography (currently using ASI533MC), but I would like to start doing LRGB imaging and am purchasing a mono camera.
Could you help me out with your thoughts on a (L)RGB filter set?
I don't want to purchase something so inexpensive that it sucks, but I don't want to reach too far at this point, financially.
Highpoint scientific has some sets, Apertura -$224, Optolong LRGB for $249, Baader $391.
Please feel free to suggest others (new/different options, a used set you're selling, etc)
If anyone has any opinions/advice (or shade) they'd like to throw on any of these sets, I'd be grateful. 

I am not currently thinking of going 2", so if your advice is "buy 2", you'll grow into it", I get it, but it isn't economically feasible at this time.

 

[Nipkinz]

I'm still a newb re: astrophotography (currently using ASI533MC), but I would like to start doing LRGB imaging and am purchasing a mono camera.
Could you help me out with your thoughts on a (L)RGB filter set?
I don't want to purchase something so inexpensive that it sucks, but I don't want to reach too far at this point, financially.
Highpoint scientific has some sets, Apertura -$224, Optolong LRGB for $249, Baader $391.
Please feel free to suggest others (new/different options, a used set you're selling, etc)
If anyone has any opinions/advice (or shade) they'd like to throw on any of these sets, I'd be grateful. 

I am not currently thinking of going 2", so if your advice is "buy 2", you'll grow into it", I get it, but it isn't economically feasible at this time.

 

Hi BigBabich, Personally, I would go with a step up from the 3 brands you've listed, to Astronomik. The feedback from owners have been very good to great. Read up on the link below; it has good info that will help you decide one way or the other. The price is very reasonable for these well-made German filters.

 

https://www.astronom...t-36mm/10233336

[CalifDan]

Hmmm, I asked a similar question a week ago and didn't get a peep.  So I will piggyback.  On the SHO side, it appears that Astronomik does not make a 3nm set.  Only 6 and 12 nm.  Would the Antilia be an Astronomik equivalent if you wanted the 3nm AND, is the 6nm to 3nm a significant difference in potential image quality?  If you did want the 3nm, would it be better to stay in brand for the entire set LRGB and SHO?

[mhooper]

I have the Optalong LRGBSHO set.  LRGB filters are great. The SHO filters are 6.5 and 7nm bandwidth. At home I shoot in a Bortle 7.5-8. All my away from home imaging areas are much darker. They seem to do a great job overall. The 3nm bandwidth filters would surly do a better job but cost more than my whole LRGBSHO kit. Keeping with the same brand of filters is a preference thing and certainly not required to produce good images. In another mono setup I have Optalong LRGB and Askar D1 & D2 filters that produce good images in all the narrowband palettes. One day I may move to 3nm filters but I haven't really made the move due to the expense and I get good images with what I have.

[Nipkinz]

Hmmm, I asked a similar question a week ago and didn't get a peep.  So I will piggyback.  On the SHO side, it appears that Astronomik does not make a 3nm set.  Only 6 and 12 nm.  Would the Antilia be an Astronomik equivalent if you wanted the 3nm AND, is the 6nm to 3nm a significant difference in potential image quality?  If you did want the 3nm, would it be better to stay in brand for the entire set LRGB and SHO?

Hi Dan!

 

For the following thoughts, please understand that I'm not an experienced AP guy, yet. 

 

The answer to 6nm vs 3nm band-pass filters is nuanced. However, generally, 3nm will give better contrast than 6nm. Keep in mind that your F/ ratio will play a role on how wide you choose to go with your band-pass (6nm being wider than 3nm); definitely read up on that.  For a simple real-world example, if shooting from high bortle skies, 3nm will work better for you than 6nm, as it decreases the amount of light passed through. Conversely, if shooting in dark (low bortle) sky, and let's say the moon is near-enough to your target that night, 3nm will be better than 6nm, for the same reasons noted above for high bortle sky. Other folks will hopefully chime-in with much better answers.

 

For your question related to keeping with the same brand between RGB and Narroband filters; yes, with regard to maintaining parafocal consistency (which, in some cases is or is not paramount to your final image success, but is often recommend to use filters from the same brand (assuming the filter set(s) are all the same thickness within the brand). 

 

When faced with the same questions, I used AstroBin as a quick and easy way to determine, generally speaking, if I preferred a specific target photo taken with 3nm vs 6nm. Keep in mind, there are subjective and objective differences between the two band-pass filters for every DSO target. Your eyes and preferences will always lean you towards a preference. 

 

I hope this helped, but remember, I'm a newbie!

[CalifDan]

I have a 1.25 inch filter wheel and a few filters to use with the OSC camera(s) I own.  My images lack the clarity I would like, but I am experimenting with longer integration times to see if that will make a substantial improvement.  I wish I had opted for 2-inch filters when i made the initial investment.  I'm leaning towards an APS-C mono camera and that means new 2 inch filters as well as another filter wheel.  The investment is substantial, but I would rather bite the bullet. If I get a smaller format mono camera, and an LRGB+SHO 1.25 set, and then decide I want the APS-C, I am way down the wrong path.

 

I am Bortle 5 or 5+ as near as I can determine. My biggest constraint is imaging time.  I am very limited to the east and somewhat limited to the west.  From the zenith south I can get 2-3 hours max on target depending on obstacles.  From the zenith north, I can get 3-4 hours.

 

Unfortunately, I don't think I can take the bullet that Chroma's would cost me.

[bobzeq25]

Hmmm, I asked a similar question a week ago and didn't get a peep.  So I will piggyback.  On the SHO side, it appears that Astronomik does not make a 3nm set.  Only 6 and 12 nm.  Would the Antilia be an Astronomik equivalent if you wanted the 3nm AND, is the 6nm to 3nm a significant difference in potential image quality?  If you did want the 3nm, would it be better to stay in brand for the entire set LRGB and SHO?

In his price range Antila 3nm don't warrant ANY consideration. So this is not a decision factor.

Edited by bobzeq25, 19 June 2025 - 05:43 PM.

[CalifDan]

In his price range Antila 3nm don't warrant ANY consideration. So this is not a decision factor.

I did understand that.  As I said, I was piggybacking on the OP questions.  The questions were mine.  I can buy the 3nm Antilia, just want to know if that is an appreciable step up from the 6nm.

[DeepSky Di]

The OP was asking about LRGB filters, not narrowband. 

 

I had been considering Antlia so I'm intrigued by  bobzeq25's opinion about them. But Santa brought me a Chroma that year, so that's why I can't give an opinion about anything else.

[bobzeq25]

I did understand that.  As I said, I was piggybacking on the OP questions.  The questions were mine.  I can buy the 3nm Antilia, just want to know if that is an appreciable step up from the 6nm.

It's noticeable. Not life changing. Worth the added cost? A decision only you can make.

I suggest next time you start your own thread, and simplify the OP's life. <smile>

Edited by bobzeq25, 19 June 2025 - 11:37 PM.

[dswtan]

I can buy the 3nm Antilia, just want to know if that is an appreciable step up from the 6nm.

While strictly this is off-topic from this LRGB thread, see the following links. Note when people ask for subjective opinions like "appreciable", it's in the eye of the beholder. Personally, I use 6nm Astronomiks and 3nm Antlias, Life is good with either. YMMV.

https://www.cloudyni...ers-3nm-or-6nm/

https://rouzastro.co...astronomik-6nm/

[CalifDan]

https://www.cloudyni...change-to-mono/

 

I did start my own thread.  You can review the discussion.  My apologies to the OP if I somehow prevented them from receiving the information they needed.  I have the same questions the OP has with the addition of SHO.  No Piggy-Backing.  I will try to avoid it.  Is it more appropriate to respond to my own thread to bump it up front?

[jml79]

I have 3 sets of LRGB filters. I have the ZWO V2 set, Antlia V-Pro set and the ToupTek set. In all honesty I can barely tell the difference. The ToupTek and Antlia seem to be slightly more parfocal than the ZWO set but I use them all without filter offsets without major issues. The ZWO blue might have a bit more halo on super bright stars than the other 2. It is entirely possible that my 76EDPH is just not colour corrected enough or sharp enough to highlight the differences between the filter sets because unfortunately this is the only scope that I have used with all 3 set enough to really know the difference. My Newt or SCT might highlight issues I am not seeing in the small refractor. My Newt has the Antlia V-Pro filters and my SCT has the ToupTek filters. So far neither have given me any issues at all and are parfocal enough to use without offsets. That is a high vote for the Antlia V-Pro's because an f/4 Newt has a pretty narrow window of acceptable focus.

 

As for size, it's pretty easy in my mind. Buy 36mm. The cost is only a little more than 31mm or even 1.25" but they work well up to APS-C sensors. The filter wheels cost the same, it's just the filters that cost a bit more. I have 1 set of 31mm filters and they will be sold with the camera if I ever sell it but my 2x36mm sets I will keep unless I upgrade for some reason.

[AstroFromHome]

I can recommend Toupteks 36mm filters.

If you order at their webshop you also get 5% discount on your first order.

The filter wheel plus LRGB plus SHO filters is $918 tax included.

 

Deduct 5% and it gets an irresistable offer. For what they deliver you will not think about any other filters anymore. 

[Buzz999]

I'm still a newb re: astrophotography (currently using ASI533MC), but I would like to start doing LRGB imaging and am purchasing a mono camera.
Could you help me out with your thoughts on a (L)RGB filter set?
I don't want to purchase something so inexpensive that it sucks, but I don't want to reach too far at this point, financially.
Highpoint scientific has some sets, Apertura -$224, Optolong LRGB for $249, Baader $391.
Please feel free to suggest others (new/different options, a used set you're selling, etc)
If anyone has any opinions/advice (or shade) they'd like to throw on any of these sets, I'd be grateful. 

I am not currently thinking of going 2", so if your advice is "buy 2", you'll grow into it", I get it, but it isn't economically feasible at this time.

 

This is like most things in astrophotography a balancing act, and better always costs more. I don’t think about my Astro gear in terms of components but rather balancing all the factors/constraints about my whole imaging system. In general for broadband imaging the biggest factor is dark skies, and filter sets are more forgiving in broadband. Unless I had really high quality optics or was really pushing fast focal lengths, then cheaper LRGB filters are not likely to be the biggest constraint on your imaging. Light pollution, internal reflections, distance of your filter from the camera sensor and back focus typically play a much bigger role in how your LRGB filters perform than differences in the brand. Note - Narrowband filters for light polluted skies is a completely different consideration. band pass and OD are big factors here and brand is important. Halos and other artefacts make brand selection and cost a much bigger factor, but you still need to consider the entire system. FWIW I have never been unhappy with my ZWO LRGB filters. Not saying never, ever, but still unlikely to ever be my biggest disappointment in the hobby. The real question you should ask is will you be unhappy with your decision if you opt for less. Personally I’m happy that cheaper LRGB filters allowed me to spend more on better narrowband filters. One last thing to remember when getting your monochrome camera with your 1.25” filters Is don’t go bigger than a 4/3” sensor. Typically IMX294 or smaller. If anything I have said appears patronising, I apologise in advance, everyone’s level of understanding in this hobby varies.

Edited by Buzz999, 20 June 2025 - 11:51 PM.

[Jeff Kieft]

I have a set of Baaders, very happy with them. My experience is that seeing, guiding, focusing, and processing matter far more than the choice of filter brand…those are unlikely to be the weak link!

[fewayne]

In all honesty I can barely tell the difference.

Same. I started with ZWO V2 LRGB and while I have upgraded, it's only because I got a great deal on used ones.