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New Case for my Mirror....

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#1 Cotts

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Posted 03 April 2016 - 03:25 PM

I have a great Lockwood mirror, 12.5" f/6.5 and I felt the need for a travel case for it.  I contacted Clydesdale Cases with my planned dimensions - 1" of padding all around - and put my order in two weeks ago...

 

The result:  ($180 CDN, btw...)

 

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These Clydesdale cases are as good as any made anywhere...  

 

One question:   I have seen mirrors protected for  shipping with a kind of tissue paper - is it just tissue paper or some special kind?  I would like to get some to rest between the mirror and the padding in the lid.....

 

Dave



#2 areyoukiddingme

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Posted 03 April 2016 - 03:40 PM

really nice case . . .  How do you keep the mirror surface free of contact with the interior?



#3 Cotts

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Posted 03 April 2016 - 10:10 PM

really nice case . . .  How do you keep the mirror surface free of contact with the interior?

 

This is my question, too.  I know there is a kind of paper that works to protect the mirror surface.  I asked about it in my first

post.

 

As it is now nothing will touch the mirror if the case is kept horizontal....   There will be 1/4" space between the mirror and the padding in the lid.....

 

Dave



#4 Mike Lockwood

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Posted 03 April 2016 - 10:50 PM

Acid-free paper.  There should have been some with the mirror, or a lid that covered it after coating.

 

If you don't have one, the next time I meet up with you we'll just make one.  Remind me.

 

Nice case!


Edited by Mike Lockwood, 03 April 2016 - 10:51 PM.


#5 areyoukiddingme

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Posted 03 April 2016 - 11:13 PM

Acid-free paper.  There should have been some with the mirror, or a lid that covered it after coating.

 

If you don't have one, the next time I meet up with you we'll just make one.  Remind me.

 

Nice case!

 

So the lid contacts the bevel of the mirror edge and that has a hard top to prevent contact with the mirror surface?



#6 Kunama

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Posted 04 April 2016 - 02:13 AM

Paddling the lid will end up damaging the mirror coating as the mirror moves around whilst being carried.

A hard flat lid would at worst damage the very outer rim of the mirror but would make no contact with the dish of the mirror.

A curved plastic dish upside down on the mirror would only contact the bevel and keep the reflective surface safe.



#7 Cames

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Posted 04 April 2016 - 08:00 AM

That is such an outstanding mirror.  I'd fiercely endeavor to protect it from agents that could harm it. I like the sturdy Clydesdale case. You're on the right track. I have some ideas to consider.

 

I'd be concerned about outgassing from the padding material that may dull the mirror coating. Also, I'd take care not to  leave trapped moisture inside the case which could promote the growth of mold and such. Some moisture from a dewed mirror could find its way into the pores of the padding. Proper ventilation along with dust control is the goal.

 

The acid free tissue is only appropriate for a scrupulously clean mirror. Dirt that accumulates as the mirror is used, would act as an abrasive when the mirror jiggles inside case during transport as Kunama has suggested. Bottom line - nothing should contact the face of a mirror that has been in use out in the field.

 

Some time ago, I read about a mirror box design where the mirror restraints were angle-shaped so that they contact only the bevel.  There were four restraints, one at each corner of the box. Kunama's dish concept is good because it leaves room above the mirror so the coating remains unmolested.

 

I think that your mirror should be restrained circumferentially from below with about six stiff, seasoned wood blocks. The bottom of the assembly could be Baltic birch ply to hold the circumferential blocks firmly in place. The contact surface of each block can be covered with felt to mitigate shocks from impacts. Not much wiggle room needed, just enough to slide the mirror in.  Pad the seat where the bottom of the mirror rests appropriately.

 

Now that you have constrained the mirror from excessive lateral motion, you must restrain it from moving up and down. That's where the inclined plane contact with the bevel comes in. It can be done with a router. Rout from both sides of the Baltic birch plywood sheet. The bottom rout is made with a tapered bit only part of the way through. Use the height of the lower restraint blocks to guide your depth.  The top hole is the size of your mirrors coated surface. You end up with only a narrow rim of plywood contacting the mirror.

 

In order to index top and bottom restraint assemblies together, set three dowels into the wood blocks that come from below.  The dowels fit into corresponding holes in the top plywood section to align the two accurately together.

 

So first, mirror drops in between the six lower block restraints. Then the top plywood crown is set in place, guided by the three dowels. Finally, the case is closed and latched.  Hopefully you will have enough padding attached to the top and sides of the case to keep the inner payload from shifting around.

 

I think this design modification will protect the coating from abrasive jiggling during transport while providing adequate restraint and support in three dimensions. 
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C



#8 Cotts

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Posted 04 April 2016 - 09:37 AM

The padding inside the lid does not contact the mirror - there is 1/4" of space.  IF I keep the box horizontal......  (which is not a problem at all - it is not a big box, nor too heavy...) But I still want to put a sheet of paper in, just in case.*

 

Since the use of the mirror depends entirely on me driving my van somewhere - star parties or my club's dark sky site - I did not want the mirror to be bouncing around in its cell in the telescope in the van.....

 

I will only put the mirror into the case dry but I will still want some desiccant packs in as well.  Currently looking for those....

 

Thanks for the great responses....

 

*just in case - get it? just in case....

 

Dave



#9 lionel

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Posted 04 April 2016 - 01:34 PM

Regarding the mirror bouncing around in its cell, I decided to do something about this for my 16" Teeter.  Before I load the scope into my Prius v, I pin the mirror in the cell by wedging a pad between the edge of the mirror and the upper mirror post. A soft orange vinyl pad from a Harbor Freight bar clamp works perfectly, as the indent in the pad fits neatly over the mirror post.  The wedged pad forces the mirror against the Glatter sling and prevents it from moving when the car hits a bump.

 

Of course I remove the pad when I set up, and reinsert it when I pack up to head home.  Works perfectly...no more clunking noises from the back of the car.

 

Lionel



#10 Starman1

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Posted 04 April 2016 - 02:20 PM

I keep my Zambuto in its mirror box, with wedges against the edge to keep it from moving in transit.

But were I to use a box as you have done, I'd use a "pizza-style" support for the center to keep the mirror from ever touching the top of the box.

You could glue a stiff plastic post to the center of the lid that would press on the center of the mirror when the lid is closed.

That might take some experimentation to get the length just right.

The mirror should be firmly held at the edges to keep it from moving laterally at all.  And the center piece that touches the mirror should be wide enough that it does a good job of holding the mirror down.  Make sure the post contact is <50% as wide as the secondary mirror in the scope, though, or any marks left on the mirror will be in the usable reflective area.

 

After reflection, a 1" diameter hard rubber plug would be just about ideal.


Edited by Starman1, 04 April 2016 - 02:21 PM.


#11 Bob S.

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Posted 04 April 2016 - 04:51 PM

JPA2 006 (550x367).jpg This is a picture of my JP Astrocraft mirror transport box (on the right of the picture in the open position) that was designed to house and safely transport my 20" f/3 1.25" thick Lockwood primary. You will notice that is has limiting bumpers laterally, soft support from behind and 4 touch points made of Teflon or Delrin that would hold the mirror's edge secure in the box without touching the reflective surface.


Edited by Bob S., 04 April 2016 - 04:53 PM.


#12 sn1987a

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Posted 04 April 2016 - 10:47 PM

I stole the idea of making a routed circle, stacked and glued plywood case from Oberon in an earlier thread. I made it up as I went along adapting bits and pieces I had lying around but it seems to work and holds the mirror very tight. I'm sure I could flip the case upside down safely if I wanted to (.....err I'm not going to try it though). It's heavy duty enough that I found I could sit the whole scope on top for transport purposes. :D

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#13 JimMo

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Posted 05 April 2016 - 03:23 PM

I surprised that you guys remove your mirrors for transport.  I guess for an ultra light scope with an exposed mirror cell I can understand the use of a mirror case.  I did remove my mirror once when I when to my first WSP.  Guess what I left sitting on a picnic table?  Got to Key Largo before they could contact me and luckily Charlie P. was able to FedEx to me back home.

 

Since then I leave my mirror safely in the mirror box all the time.  In over 10 years I haven't had any issues transporting it to over a dozen different star parties.  I do help mitigate dust while it is in storage in my garage with a Remo drum head that sits just above the mirror riding on the three mirror clip posts.  Here is a pic if you haven't seen this hack of mine, it helps keep my mirror far less dusty that only using the lid on my tall mirror box.  I put a velcro "handle" in the middle of the drum head to easily install or remove it.  For long distances with the drum head cover in place I usually put a folded towel or two on top of it to hold it down, although in many trips to a local dark site I usually leave the towels home as the cover has never come off due to rough roads or bumps.  

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#14 William Jin

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Posted 06 April 2016 - 02:16 PM

Regarding the mirror bouncing around in its cell, I decided to do something about this for my 16" Teeter.  Before I load the scope into my Prius v, I pin the mirror in the cell by wedging a pad between the edge of the mirror and the upper mirror post. A soft orange vinyl pad from a Harbor Freight bar clamp works perfectly, as the indent in the pad fits neatly over the mirror post.  The wedged pad forces the mirror against the Glatter sling and prevents it from moving when the car hits a bump.

 

Of course I remove the pad when I set up, and reinsert it when I pack up to head home.  Works perfectly...no more clunking noises from the back of the car.

 

Lionel

 

Lionel, 

 

Would it be too much trouble for you to take some pictures for your set up? I am genuinely interested in how you will transport your mirror in the cell.

 

Thanks, 

 

William 



#15 lionel

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Posted 06 April 2016 - 09:45 PM

Hi William,

 

Sure.  Will get to it in the next couple of weeks....after NEAF and tax season.  :p

 

Lionel 


Edited by lionel, 06 April 2016 - 09:51 PM.



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