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#26 junomike

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Posted 27 January 2017 - 10:39 AM

thats one huge boy, iam assuming you probally need to add a half pier to the cge mount or the focuser will be 2 ft from the ground when looking at zenith?

j

You can see in post #6 that the placement of the rings/saddle is closer to the Focuser than the 152ED (strictly due to the heavy front lens).

I'm guessing the eyepiece (when viewing Zenith) will be about 4" lower than the 152ED (which is pretty low itself). 

I may have to extend the Tripod legs a bit as I know of no such pier for the CGE.

 

Mike



#27 junomike

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Posted 27 January 2017 - 10:46 AM

Hi, Mike.  New toy looks great!!  What are the chances you will a) be coming to Starfest and b) bringing the 178??  I'd love to compare it to my Skywatcher 180 Mak.....

 

c)  join the NYAA and come to our dark sky site N.E. of Cobourg.........   hey, I can ask.....

 

Dave

Dave,

 

a) I always try for Starfest but something always comes up (tough with kids and work).

b) Even if I could make the 178ED wouldn't be my first choice (most likely C14), but  If I do go I'll bring It for you to babysit while I run around begging the 25" Dob owners for a peek!

c) No offense, but If I'm going that far (Coburg) I may as well continue a little ways to "Nirvana" and stay for a night or two.

Also, Coburg looks to be about the same (for Darkness) as my local site which is only 15 min away.

 

Mike



#28 junomike

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Posted 27 January 2017 - 10:54 AM

Hi Mike.  How much does your 7" Meade refractor weigh?  Looks like it was well taken care of.  Hope you get some excellent views through it when you are able to get out with it.

 

Bill

Bill, I was guessing it was similar in weight to the C14 (40lbs).  I just weighed it at 37.4 lbs (with Dew Shield).

I'm sure that will get closer to 40lbs with the addition of a Moonlite Focuser and better rings.

 

Mike



#29 astrosky123

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Posted 27 January 2017 - 11:20 AM

 

Hi, Mike.  New toy looks great!!  What are the chances you will a) be coming to Starfest and b) bringing the 178??  I'd love to compare it to my Skywatcher 180 Mak.....

 

c)  join the NYAA and come to our dark sky site N.E. of Cobourg.........   hey, I can ask.....

 

Dave

Dave,

 

a) I always try for Starfest but something always comes up (tough with kids and work).

b) Even if I could make the 178ED wouldn't be my first choice (most likely C14), but  If I do go I'll bring It for you to babysit while I run around begging the 25" Dob owners for a peek!

c) No offense, but If I'm going that far (Coburg) I may as well continue a little ways to "Nirvana" and stay for a night or two.

Also, Coburg looks to be about the same (for Darkness) as my local site which is only 15 min away.

 

Mike

 

i have to agree on the part of starfest not being good skies its about yellow skies. i remember back then around 98 or 99 they took a vote to see if it should be moved to halibuton area peryy sound area etc. Where it would be maybe in blue skies. yellow is just not that good for out largest star party that has up to 1000 people, it should be at much darkewr skies and thats y i havent been there for 15 yrs or more.

j



#30 vkhastro1

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Posted 27 January 2017 - 11:26 AM

Starfest is located in a light green zone (Dark Sky App).

The NYAA site (NE of Cobourg - not sure of exact location) is either light or dark green (Dark Sky App).



#31 junomike

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Posted 27 January 2017 - 11:46 AM

Gary, is that the Dark Sky Meter App (iOS) or something else?

 

Mike



#32 astrosky123

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Posted 27 January 2017 - 01:20 PM

Starfest is located in a light green zone (Dark Sky App).

The NYAA site (NE of Cobourg - not sure of exact location) is either light or dark green (Dark Sky App).

looks like yellow to me north of mount forest  and bit west, yes theres also very small green zone near by too

j



#33 SandyHouTex

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Posted 27 January 2017 - 01:49 PM

Gary, is that the Dark Sky Meter App (iOS) or something else?

 

Mike

Congrats on the scope Mike.  I eventually would like to find one of my own.



#34 junomike

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Posted 27 January 2017 - 07:25 PM

 

 

Along with the potential lens modification, It's going to need a focuser as the OEM focuser is fine as long as you're packing Vice Grips in your Accessory case.

Seeing as the 152ED and 178ED share the same flange, It won't be hard to swap the Focusers although I might just get one from Ron (Moonlite) as it would be a shame to add the pathetic OEM focuser to the 152ED as it's such a good performer.

The Rings work fine but are mediocre IMO  and I may eventually replace them with better one's (Parallax?).

 

But seeing as it's Winter here for another few months, I really won't know all, if any answers for some time

I'm not too concerned though as If this doesn't work out for me, I have a great 6" ED to fall back on.

 

 

Mike

UPDATE:  After researching a little on the Meade ED F9 Focuser, I found this thread

which described my Focuser to a tee.

After removing the old "waded up" tape and cleaning it up a bit, the focuser moved freely again.

I added temporary tape and ordered this ($4).

Should make it a far better than it was.

 

Mike


Edited by junomike, 27 January 2017 - 07:26 PM.


#35 Tank

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Posted 27 January 2017 - 09:39 PM

congrats on the scope

should be a fun spring viewing



#36 stevew

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Posted 27 January 2017 - 09:41 PM

Wow Mike it looks great.

Congratulations....

Looking forward to your first light report.

 

Steve



#37 JohnAkai

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Posted 27 January 2017 - 10:23 PM

More is better,

Too much is just right!



#38 Astronought

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Posted 31 January 2017 - 09:09 AM

Its bigger than my car!
It's lovely.  I hope you get some clear nights soon.  I'm a fan of these older Meades.  The 102 version was my first refractor and after I (foolishly) sold it, I realised how much money you had to spend to achieve the same image quality.
Enjoy.



#39 Jeff B

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 09:43 AM

Oh and before anyone asks, No the 152ED is NOT for sale........at least not yet! :grin:

 

Mike

Smart move Mike and enjoy your new toy.


Edited by Jeff B, 01 February 2017 - 09:47 AM.


#40 vkhastro1

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 03:05 PM

Gary, is that the Dark Sky Meter App (iOS) or something else?

 

Mike

Dark Sky app (iOS).

 

 

Starfest is located in a light green zone (Dark Sky App).

The NYAA site (NE of Cobourg - not sure of exact location) is either light or dark green (Dark Sky App).

looks like yellow to me north of mount forest  and bit west, yes theres also very small green zone near by too

j

 

 

The NYAA site for Starfest is definitely in the light green zone on the Dark Sky app.

Although the site is slowly getting worse over the last 10 years or so.

I was there in 2003 as well as in 2016 - definitely the horizon in from SE to SW has deteriorated a great deal.



#41 junomike

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 12:22 AM

Finally got around to mounting the 178ED on the CGE.

 

M152M178b.jpg

 

Mike



#42 junomike

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 12:24 AM

And for comparison here's a  left/right Image of the Meade 152ED and Meade 178ED.  Not perfectly scaled but close enough to give an Idea.

(the 178ED is 10" longer and and 1" fatter).

 

EDs Together2.jpg

 

Mike



#43 Nightmare

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 11:26 AM

looking good Mike!Looking forward to hear your thoughts on the big brother and first light report.

Clear skies.



#44 teast

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Posted 14 March 2017 - 08:20 PM

Is it possible to determine if a 178 ED has had the lens cell modification installed, by simple visual inspection?  That is, visually inspecting the scope, not visually observing through it.

 

 

I know of a scope that has had (and still has) collimation issues, but I don't know if those trying to adjust the collimation are aware of the cell modification designed to correct the issue.  Is this something that Meade must do or do they sell a kit for DIY? Anyone know the cost?

 

 

-Tom

 

 

 



#45 junomike

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Posted 15 March 2017 - 03:08 AM

See the last pic in this Ad.

The bottom arrow shows the standard Collimation screw and the top arrow shows the modification done by Meade.

AFAIK Meade no longer does this. The 3 screw holes could easily be drilled and tapped by a machine shop but my understanding it that Meade also changed out the spacer (to one that allowed for flexing of the lenses).  Acquiring that would be the hard part I think.

Is this scope you refer to a 178ED?

 

 

Mike



#46 HARRISON SCOPES

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Posted 15 March 2017 - 03:58 AM

I have done the mod several times - the hardest part is removing the retaining ring which was often glued liberally! Warming with a hairdryer carefully helps a lot then rubber gloves and or careful tapping anti-clockwise.

Carefully support lenses from below with a padded surface (large can or similar) then lower the cell leaving lenses on the pad

Note any orientation marks and remove lots of yukky old tape in many cases

Replace the O ring that sits beneath the retaining ring as they distort and pop inside too easy. (or make three felt pads and ignore the O ring)

Drill and tap the cell with three 120 degree apart holes and use nylon tipped or nylon screws in line with one element

Pack the lens / cell gap with something so just a tiny space to breathe is left (used foil tape / felt pads or similar)

Optional - replace the flat spacer rings between elements with correctly measured for thickness 120 degree apart spacers (foil tape is ideal)

Lastly tighten the ring snug not tight and adjust on your favourite star on a steady night.

Just take lots of time and ask questions if you get stuck, a rewarding job that transforms these really nice classic F9's - Don't expect AP / TAK performance but most are very good instruments. (yes I'd have another but very rare in England now)


Edited by HARRISON SCOPES, 15 March 2017 - 04:05 AM.


#47 teast

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Posted 15 March 2017 - 09:04 AM

Thanks to both Mike and HARRISON SCOPES!

 

Mike, I'm pretty sure it's a 178 ED but not absolutely certain.  I'll check for the modification when I have a chance and let you know.

 

HARRISON SCOPES - thanks for the detailed instructions.  If the mod has not been made, and there is interest in doing it, I may contact you with additional questions.

 

-Tom



#48 HARRISON SCOPES

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Posted 15 March 2017 - 10:35 AM

See if you can get a pic of the lens cell - very easy to tell, happy to help if needed if you take it on of course.



#49 junomike

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Posted 15 March 2017 - 01:52 PM

I have done the mod several times - the hardest part is removing the retaining ring which was often glued liberally! Warming with a hairdryer carefully helps a lot then rubber gloves and or careful tapping anti-clockwise.

Carefully support lenses from below with a padded surface (large can or similar) then lower the cell leaving lenses on the pad

Note any orientation marks and remove lots of yukky old tape in many cases

Replace the O ring that sits beneath the retaining ring as they distort and pop inside too easy. (or make three felt pads and ignore the O ring)

Drill and tap the cell with three 120 degree apart holes and use nylon tipped or nylon screws in line with one element

Pack the lens / cell gap with something so just a tiny space to breathe is left (used foil tape / felt pads or similar)

Optional - replace the flat spacer rings between elements with correctly measured for thickness 120 degree apart spacers (foil tape is ideal)

Lastly tighten the ring snug not tight and adjust on your favourite star on a steady night.

Just take lots of time and ask questions if you get stuck, a rewarding job that transforms these really nice classic F9's - Don't expect AP / TAK performance but most are very good instruments. (yes I'd have another but very rare in England now)

My 178ED has had the Mod done but I may need to tighten up the clearance between the Cell and elements (using spacing tape). 

I'm wondering if maybe I should replace the set screws (Mod) with Nylon one's as it would be easier to adjust (like a Dob)?

 

Did you do this Mod for your own telescopes or was this a service you offered?  If so what was the ballpark cost? (curious)

 

Mike



#50 HARRISON SCOPES

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Posted 15 March 2017 - 02:37 PM

I used to be the service techichian for the UK importer in London some years ago so did this a few times, twice on my own 178's - not something I can do commercially any longer but happy to advise, on my last one I used nylon thumbscrews as you say was a bit like bobs knobs to adjust easily. You need only a tiny bit of room between the lens edges and the cell to avoid pinching but still hold collimation. The better you space the lens edges to the cell the more robust the assembly will be - the tape or spacing material needs to be non spongy then the screws only need to do a very snall adjustment to centre the elements long term.


Edited by HARRISON SCOPES, 15 March 2017 - 02:39 PM.



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