Yes, I use HandyAvi with my NexImage. You will still have to install the drivers from the setup CD though. You can copy them from the CD to a small USB drive and plug that into your TABLET, or maybe download them from the Internet.
Then when you plug in the NexImage and it wants to find the driver you can direct it to the place on your USB stick where you copied the drivers. Windows will copy what it needs from the USB drive and you're done.
The windows that have the controls for the camera settings are created by the driver software. These other programs like HandyAvi and AmCap will then call the functions in the driver to make the settings window appear. What this means is that you will have the same setting windows no matter which program you use (HandyAvi, AmCap, etc.) If you try two different programs you will see which windows are the same and which ones are different. The windows that are the same are from the driver software.
Where Oh Where Has the Cel. NexImage Camera Gone?
Started by
Skip
, Apr 24 2012 04:35 PM
81 replies to this topic
#52
Skip
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Starlifter Driver
Posted 15 May 2012 - 05:54 PM
Thanks, WWG! 
#53
harioharima
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Posted 15 May 2012 - 11:53 PM
I just used craterlet and captured a 10 second avi of Saturn at 10fps. The result bears a striking resemblance to a pimple I once sported. All kidding side, the result is a monochromatic little lump with the overall shape of Saturn. I fully intend to put in some time figuring out registax to process the avi-- but is there a quicker/simpler way to ascertain whether the neximage-camera is functioning properly to spec?
Thank you.
Thank you.
#54
WarmWeatherGuy
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Posted 16 May 2012 - 12:17 AM
Registax can't do miracles. It sounds like you aren't in focus. I would practice using the setup in the daytime at some trees. Once you have focus you can then swap the camera out for an eyepiece. Notice which way and how far you have to turn to get the eyepiece in focus. Then, at night, you can focus on Saturn with that same eyepiece. Turn the knob back to where it needs to be to focus with the camera. This will get you very close to the best focus.
I actually use a Bahtinov mask and a bright star to get perfect focus. Then the trick is to find Saturn with the tiny field of view the camera gives you.
You also need to play with the brightness, gain, and frame rates / shutter speeds. There are also some other controls to play with. You can get some color that way.
Registax can make some impressive improvements but only if you have something reasonable to start with.
I don't know what telescope you're using. You might want to get a good 2x Barlow. The best planet pictures are taken with C14 and C11 telescopes. There are some reasonable pictures of the planets on YouTube taken with a NexStar 4SE though.
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=rOlp5iIML4M
I actually use a Bahtinov mask and a bright star to get perfect focus. Then the trick is to find Saturn with the tiny field of view the camera gives you.
You also need to play with the brightness, gain, and frame rates / shutter speeds. There are also some other controls to play with. You can get some color that way.
Registax can make some impressive improvements but only if you have something reasonable to start with.
I don't know what telescope you're using. You might want to get a good 2x Barlow. The best planet pictures are taken with C14 and C11 telescopes. There are some reasonable pictures of the planets on YouTube taken with a NexStar 4SE though.
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=rOlp5iIML4M
#55
Herr Ointment
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Posted 16 May 2012 - 04:26 AM
Some practice helps.
#56
Tel
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Posted 16 May 2012 - 05:28 AM
I just used craterlet and captured a 10 second avi of Saturn at 10fps. The result bears a striking resemblance to a pimple I once sported. All kidding side, the result is a monochromatic little lump with the overall shape of Saturn. I fully intend to put in some time figuring out registax to process the avi-- but is there a quicker/simpler way to ascertain whether the neximage-camera is functioning properly to spec?
Thank you.
Take on board what Warmweatherguy has said. It's great advice.
Certainly focus on a bright star and preferably do so via a Bahtinov mask before moving to your selected planet.
If however, after star focusing, you cannot locate your chosen planet due to the small FOV presented by the camera, remove the camera carefully and, without touching the focus at all, replace it with a relatively long focal length EP, (say, for example, a 20mm).
You should then be able to see the image of the planet albeit probably a blurred one. No matter; so long as you can see it, you can centralise it and, having done so, all you need to do then, is to remove the EP, (carefully so as not to disturb the 'scopes position), and replace it once again with your camera making any further slight adjustments if necessary on the camera focused image.
Additionally, perhaps this UK "You Tube" concerning Version 5 Registax processing of Saturn and its associated series might also assist.
http://www.youtube.c...feature=related
Hoping this helps a little further and by the way, a very warm welcome to this forum !
Best regards,
Tel
#57
hopskipson
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Posted 16 May 2012 - 06:29 AM
I don't have one yet, but how do you use a Bahtinov mask? Are there instructions provided?
James
James
#58
Tel
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Posted 16 May 2012 - 08:16 AM
Hi James
There are, (well as far as the one I bought is concened), but I think you'll have no problem in figuring out from the image it presents via your camera on your laptop screen.
These instructions might however help.
http://www.btinterne...ey/bahtinov.htm
Best regards,
Tel
There are, (well as far as the one I bought is concened), but I think you'll have no problem in figuring out from the image it presents via your camera on your laptop screen.
These instructions might however help.
http://www.btinterne...ey/bahtinov.htm
Best regards,
Tel
#59
WarmWeatherGuy
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Posted 16 May 2012 - 10:06 AM
Watch this 16 second video
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=KnKOynYBnlI
You will see a star with an X crossed through it. Another streak is present and that streak is moved relative to the star with the X when you change focus. Put the lone streak through the middle of the X and you've got perfect focus.
This is very IMPORTANT: Don't forget to remove the Bahtinov mask when you're done.
Actually this is more important before beginning 10 minute exposures.
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=KnKOynYBnlI
You will see a star with an X crossed through it. Another streak is present and that streak is moved relative to the star with the X when you change focus. Put the lone streak through the middle of the X and you've got perfect focus.
This is very IMPORTANT: Don't forget to remove the Bahtinov mask when you're done.
Actually this is more important before beginning 10 minute exposures.
#60
harioharima
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Posted 16 May 2012 - 11:40 AM
Thanks for all the superb advice. I will apply the info contained in the links/videos.
One more question-- During the focus/centering process, the craterlet window exhibited delay (when i change focus for example) and also occasional "greenish" flickering frames. Are these to be expected with a functional neximage?
One more question-- During the focus/centering process, the craterlet window exhibited delay (when i change focus for example) and also occasional "greenish" flickering frames. Are these to be expected with a functional neximage?
#61
Tel
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Posted 16 May 2012 - 12:06 PM
Hi Harioharima,
And, if I haven't said before; a very hearty welcome to CN and to this forum !
When you "Set Up Camera" (i.e. your Neximage) in "Craterlet", you are instantly given a " Remove Flicker" window which relates to your mains electrical system. In Europe we work on 50Hz. but I believe the US works with 60Hz (the default).
If you are therefore in Europe, then this may be the cause of your screen image flicker and if so apply the option.
As to the image appearing green-ish on screen, this is quite normal, at least as far as my experience takes me, and I use "Craterlet". Here attached is a screen shot from the last AVI raw, unprocessed image of Saturn I captured. This is easily corrected to the appropriate colour(s) at the processing stage.
Hoping this helps,
Best regards,
Tel
And, if I haven't said before; a very hearty welcome to CN and to this forum !
When you "Set Up Camera" (i.e. your Neximage) in "Craterlet", you are instantly given a " Remove Flicker" window which relates to your mains electrical system. In Europe we work on 50Hz. but I believe the US works with 60Hz (the default).
If you are therefore in Europe, then this may be the cause of your screen image flicker and if so apply the option.
As to the image appearing green-ish on screen, this is quite normal, at least as far as my experience takes me, and I use "Craterlet". Here attached is a screen shot from the last AVI raw, unprocessed image of Saturn I captured. This is easily corrected to the appropriate colour(s) at the processing stage.
Hoping this helps,
Best regards,
Tel
#62
harioharima
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 04:18 PM
Hi Harioharima,
And, if I haven't said before; a very hearty welcome to CN and to this forum !
When you "Set Up Camera" (i.e. your Neximage) in "Craterlet", you are instantly given a " Remove Flicker" window which relates to your mains electrical system. In Europe we work on 50Hz. but I believe the US works with 60Hz (the default).
If you are therefore in Europe, then this may be the cause of your screen image flicker and if so apply the option.
As to the image appearing green-ish on screen, this is quite normal, at least as far as my experience takes me, and I use "Craterlet". Here attached is a screen shot from the last AVI raw, unprocessed image of Saturn I captured. This is easily corrected to the appropriate colour(s) at the processing stage.
Hoping this helps,
Best regards,
Tel
Hi Tel, Thank you for the detailed response. The pic you put up is orders of magnitude superior to anything i've managed to see with my neximage.
I tried most of the suggestions again without any success. I only get a lump no matter how slowly and patiently I try focus. Last night, the views of Saturn through my eyepiece were breathtaking but despite spending a lot of time, i got nothing better than the attachment. I am beginning to think that the neximage I purchased is defective.
Is there any test possible to figure out whether the sensor is ok? I tried using it indoors to image various objects but it shows nothing (at any focal distance) but perhaps it isn't designed for use as an ordinary camera.
Thanks for any suggestions.
#63
Tel
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 05:47 PM
Hi Harioharima,
I've just picked up you posting but must away to my bed: time here in the UK approaching midnight !
However, before we discuss anything further, can you please provide details of the 'scope you are using in this respect and whether you are attempting your imaging with your Neximage camera via the use of Barlow lenses, or not as the case may be ?
If you can provide such information and anything else you think relevant, I promise I will look at the problem as soon as awake tomorrow morning !
Best regards and goodnight,
Tel
I've just picked up you posting but must away to my bed: time here in the UK approaching midnight !
However, before we discuss anything further, can you please provide details of the 'scope you are using in this respect and whether you are attempting your imaging with your Neximage camera via the use of Barlow lenses, or not as the case may be ?
If you can provide such information and anything else you think relevant, I promise I will look at the problem as soon as awake tomorrow morning !
Best regards and goodnight,
Tel
#64
WarmWeatherGuy
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 06:19 PM
It looks like you're over exposed. Can you turn down the brightness and gain? Also try a faster frame rate. These things will make the image darker. Also, you can use a Barlow lens which will make it darker (and larger).
#65
harioharima
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 06:45 PM
Tel and WarmWeatherGuy, Thanks for posting. Here are some details:
1. I am NOT using a Barlow (don't have one).
2. Scope is a Nexstar N5. My alignment and tracking were bang-on last night with no drift. Image with eyepiece (a recently acquired 8-24mm Celestron Zoom) was absolutely incredible (I could see the CD quite well). So I was disappointed not to have the neximage capturing properly.
3. I experimented with framerates of 10fps and 5fps.
4. I did enable the 60Hz antiflicker (I am in US) but I was only using battery power on the tablet, not ac.
5. The image size with neximage seemed to be selected by craterlet (it was a smallish 117x200 or something like that. When using my tablet's front camera, crater shows an image (of my face) at 640x480
6. I didn't change any of the image settings....perhaps i will experiment with brightness and gain as WWG suggests.
7. What framerate should i try? (I read somewhere that 5 to 10fps is recommended)
8. Do you guys see Saturn LIVE on the computer screen like Tel's image? I've tried both snapshot mode and avi-- both images looked like what i posted previously.
Hope some of what I typed is useful info to diagnose the issue. All I've done is view/center Saturn with my zoom eyepiece magnified to 8mm (or 10mm). Then I replace the eyepiece with the neximage (connected via usb). I try my best to focus s-l-0-w-ly and am sure I didn't shoot past the perfect focus image.
Thanks again.
1. I am NOT using a Barlow (don't have one).
2. Scope is a Nexstar N5. My alignment and tracking were bang-on last night with no drift. Image with eyepiece (a recently acquired 8-24mm Celestron Zoom) was absolutely incredible (I could see the CD quite well). So I was disappointed not to have the neximage capturing properly.
3. I experimented with framerates of 10fps and 5fps.
4. I did enable the 60Hz antiflicker (I am in US) but I was only using battery power on the tablet, not ac.
5. The image size with neximage seemed to be selected by craterlet (it was a smallish 117x200 or something like that. When using my tablet's front camera, crater shows an image (of my face) at 640x480
6. I didn't change any of the image settings....perhaps i will experiment with brightness and gain as WWG suggests.
7. What framerate should i try? (I read somewhere that 5 to 10fps is recommended)
8. Do you guys see Saturn LIVE on the computer screen like Tel's image? I've tried both snapshot mode and avi-- both images looked like what i posted previously.
Hope some of what I typed is useful info to diagnose the issue. All I've done is view/center Saturn with my zoom eyepiece magnified to 8mm (or 10mm). Then I replace the eyepiece with the neximage (connected via usb). I try my best to focus s-l-0-w-ly and am sure I didn't shoot past the perfect focus image.
Thanks again.
#66
WarmWeatherGuy
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 07:03 PM
I am not familiar with craterlet but it should allow you to specify the image size. I use HandiAvi which you can use for free for 10 days.
http://www.azcendant.com/
There are two windows that you should be able to bring up that are provided by the NexImage drivers. One window lets you choose the image size and the other lets you select the brightness, shutter speed, gain, and frame rate. See attached picture.
You should see a live image of Saturn. If you have a frame rate of 5 per second then it will only update 5 times a second. If you don't see a live image then I would work to fix that first.
With a live image you can simply turn down the brightness, gain, and increase the shutter speed to make the image be less bright. You might be able to use a frame rate of 20 or even 25.
http://www.azcendant.com/
There are two windows that you should be able to bring up that are provided by the NexImage drivers. One window lets you choose the image size and the other lets you select the brightness, shutter speed, gain, and frame rate. See attached picture.
You should see a live image of Saturn. If you have a frame rate of 5 per second then it will only update 5 times a second. If you don't see a live image then I would work to fix that first.
With a live image you can simply turn down the brightness, gain, and increase the shutter speed to make the image be less bright. You might be able to use a frame rate of 20 or even 25.
#67
harioharima
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 07:40 PM
Thanks WarmWeatherGuy. I will try the software you linked and tweak gain etc. So far I've just let the software pick values automatically.
I do see a live image but it looks like what I posted previously, not like what Tel did.
I do see a live image but it looks like what I posted previously, not like what Tel did.
#68
WarmWeatherGuy
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 10:37 PM
Attached is a picture of Saturn I just took using my NexStar 5SE and the NexImage. It is an animation toggling between the stacked image and the wavelet image. This is at 25 frames per second and taking 600 frames.
I do not know what a NexStar N5 is but it looks similar to mine based on the relative size of Saturn in our pictures.
I do not know what a NexStar N5 is but it looks similar to mine based on the relative size of Saturn in our pictures.
#69
WarmWeatherGuy
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 10:41 PM
Here is another picture I just took using the NexStar 5SE and NexImage but also using a 2.5x Powermate, which is basically a really nice Barlow. This converts my telescope from a 1250mm f/10 to a 3125mm f/25. Consequently I had to drop down to 10 frames per second. I took 600 frames as before.
#70
harioharima
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 10:58 PM
I just got back and did manage some improvement entirely thanks to your suggestions -- i turned down the gain, and turned OFF the anti-flicker feature.
Warmweather guy, what I've got is nothing near what you've posted but I think I managed to verify the camera isn't the weak-link - it is me! Thank you.
Warmweather guy, what I've got is nothing near what you've posted but I think I managed to verify the camera isn't the weak-link - it is me! Thank you.
#71
WarmWeatherGuy
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 11:17 PM
What you have looks almost identical to my 1x stacked (no wavelet) image above. You can squeeze out a little more by doing the wavelet thing in RegiStax. A much bigger improvement can be had by using a Barlow lens. Also notice that RegiStax can improve the 2.5x image more than it can improve the 1x image (in the animations above).
I see two differences in your picture and mine. I have North up. To do this I point the NexImage camera North. On the camera the end where the wire comes out is the end that points up.
The other difference is just the brightness. Other than that I would say your picture is the same as mine.
I see two differences in your picture and mine. I have North up. To do this I point the NexImage camera North. On the camera the end where the wire comes out is the end that points up.
The other difference is just the brightness. Other than that I would say your picture is the same as mine.
#72
Tel
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Posted 20 May 2012 - 02:18 AM
Hi Harioharima,
I think that between you and WarWeatherGuy, you've virtually solved your problem ! All I can perhaps add is that it looks as if you haven't being applying the image size variation Craterlet offers. To effect this, press "Mode" on the Craterlet screen to apply the maximum image size of 640 X 480.
Additionally, I'd certainly recommend that you boost your focal ratio to something like f/20, (X2 Barlow or Powermate), or even f/30, (X3 Barlow), although the latter might be a little too much for a 5" aperture 'scope, plus the fact that the higher you push the magnification the less positive the spur gear driven tracking is likely to be due to the diminished field of view.
As to the image set up, as WWG advised, keep the Gain on the dimmer side and, in my opinion, the Gamma at zero. Vary the brightness and contrast to suit but as said, ebb on the dim side for your image capture and use a shutter speed of between 5 and 20 frames per second in order to avoid too much image compression.
Hoping these few additional comments help.
Best regards,
Tel
I think that between you and WarWeatherGuy, you've virtually solved your problem ! All I can perhaps add is that it looks as if you haven't being applying the image size variation Craterlet offers. To effect this, press "Mode" on the Craterlet screen to apply the maximum image size of 640 X 480.
Additionally, I'd certainly recommend that you boost your focal ratio to something like f/20, (X2 Barlow or Powermate), or even f/30, (X3 Barlow), although the latter might be a little too much for a 5" aperture 'scope, plus the fact that the higher you push the magnification the less positive the spur gear driven tracking is likely to be due to the diminished field of view.
As to the image set up, as WWG advised, keep the Gain on the dimmer side and, in my opinion, the Gamma at zero. Vary the brightness and contrast to suit but as said, ebb on the dim side for your image capture and use a shutter speed of between 5 and 20 frames per second in order to avoid too much image compression.
Hoping these few additional comments help.
Best regards,
Tel
#73
Tel
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Posted 20 May 2012 - 05:18 AM
Hi HH,
Just to give you an idea of your 'scope's potential for planetary imaging, I ran your above image through some of the relevant Photoshop features and modified its size a little.
Obviously there's not too much in the way of detail in this one, but once you get into the practice of accurate focusing and full use of "Craterlet", I'm sure you will soon be attaining great results.
Best regards,
Tel
Just to give you an idea of your 'scope's potential for planetary imaging, I ran your above image through some of the relevant Photoshop features and modified its size a little.
Obviously there's not too much in the way of detail in this one, but once you get into the practice of accurate focusing and full use of "Craterlet", I'm sure you will soon be attaining great results.
Best regards,
Tel
#74
Herr Ointment
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Posted 20 May 2012 - 06:14 AM
These cameras pretty much require the use of a barlow to produce an image that is large enough to show detail.
I adjust my settings at the laptop so that the live image is a bit dim to my eyes and take as many 2 minute exposures as I can - adjusting settings as I go.
This shoot until I hit it method works especially if the capture program will save a list of your settings with each capture. I've had some luck with SharpCap.
Try and then try again. You'll get a real good one eventually and then it's all up to the seeing conditions (which play a huge role), free time during said conditions and of course luck. I can't tell you how many times I've gotten set up and after numerous snafus was finally ready to take some exposures that the target vanished behind a tree branch.
I adjust my settings at the laptop so that the live image is a bit dim to my eyes and take as many 2 minute exposures as I can - adjusting settings as I go.
This shoot until I hit it method works especially if the capture program will save a list of your settings with each capture. I've had some luck with SharpCap.
Try and then try again. You'll get a real good one eventually and then it's all up to the seeing conditions (which play a huge role), free time during said conditions and of course luck. I can't tell you how many times I've gotten set up and after numerous snafus was finally ready to take some exposures that the target vanished behind a tree branch.
#75
harioharima
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Posted 21 May 2012 - 11:37 AM
Thank you Tel, WWT, Herrointment. I will procure a Barlow and try for more improvement. Also Registax at this point is bufuddling for me, it will probably be a month before I will be ready to use that.
Also, I now have a 8-24 zoom eyepiece that has T-threading (if I am correct). I am curious to try directly photographing (with a interchangeable lens camera) into the eyepiece. Wonder if that would produce better images -- particularly because seeing with the eye seems way superior to a single frame capture with the neximage. I won't be able to try that for a week or two but will post if/when I do.
Also, I now have a 8-24 zoom eyepiece that has T-threading (if I am correct). I am curious to try directly photographing (with a interchangeable lens camera) into the eyepiece. Wonder if that would produce better images -- particularly because seeing with the eye seems way superior to a single frame capture with the neximage. I won't be able to try that for a week or two but will post if/when I do.
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