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Mega-mod thread for Zhumell dobs

Started by Tim L , Jan 28 2010 10:49 PM

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1886 replies to this topic

#426 petrus45

Ranger 4

Posts: 311
Joined: 31 Jan 2011
Loc: SW Ohio / N Ky.

Posted 14 December 2013 - 05:10 PM

Also, while I'm at it, anyone ever use an equatorial platform with a Z10? Necessary? Worth it? Not that I can afford any of this.... :whistle:

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#427 kfiscus

Cosmos

Posts: 8,232
Joined: 09 Jul 2012
Loc: Albert Lea, MN, USA

Posted 14 December 2013 - 11:49 PM

My customized Z12 lives on a dedicated Atomic EQ platform. As I did my re-build, I planned for the platform's height. I shortened the rockerboards to accommodate this added height. I found my platform for sale used online and got it for only $300.

How is your Z10's EP height now? Most platforms will add at least 3-4". With a 10" this could be ideal- depending on your height.

You will never want to go back if you try observing on a platform. It is SO nice being able to switch EPs and have the target not get lost, even at very high magnifications. Tracking allowed me to find the central star in M-57. You have to concentrate on the proper spot and wait for fleeting moments of perfect seeing to pick it up.

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#428 Sarkikos

ISS

Posts: 40,236
Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Loc: Right Coast of the Chesapeake Bay

Posted 15 December 2013 - 09:24 AM

I'm waiting for an upgrade to a 14" Dob before I get tracking. It will probably be built into the mount.

My 10" Dob is exactly at the right height now for comfortable sitting at all positions. I don't want it any taller. Besides, I have to set up in a public area near my house. I don't need another piece of equipment to schlep out of the house, down the porch, and around the side of my building.

Mike

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#429 DannyL

Vostok 1

Posts: 120
Joined: 04 Jul 2013

Posted 16 December 2013 - 01:54 PM

Absolutely the nicest base I have ever seen. DannyL.

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#430 kfiscus

Cosmos

Posts: 8,232
Joined: 09 Jul 2012
Loc: Albert Lea, MN, USA

Posted 16 December 2013 - 07:32 PM

Thank you very much.

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#431 Elroy

Vostok 1

Posts: 178
Joined: 22 Nov 2013

Posted 21 December 2013 - 09:51 PM

My new Z12 has now taken apart. The primary cell and mirror were a lot heavier than I could have imagined but managed it ok.
Different types of flocking out there, the fabric with the adhesive, flocking board and flocking tube. What is the favorite here on CN ? Any suggestions or comments? Any one wished they had tried something different?
Heck yeah I'm a newbee but I am really going to enjoy this. No, my name isn't Elroy Jetson, my name is Brian.

cheers! :cool:

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#432 petrus45

Ranger 4

Posts: 311
Joined: 31 Jan 2011
Loc: SW Ohio / N Ky.

Posted 22 December 2013 - 12:10 AM

My new Z12 has now taken apart. The primary cell and mirror were a lot heavier than I could have imagined but managed it ok.
Different types of flocking out there, the fabric with the adhesive, flocking board and flocking tube. What is the favorite here on CN ? Any suggestions or comments? Any one wished they had tried something different?
Heck yeah I'm a newbee but I am really going to enjoy this. No, my name isn't Elroy Jetson, my name is Brian.

cheers!

Hey Brian, and welcome. After reading up extensively on CN, I did what a couple other folks on this thread did flocked the OTA with black velvet from Joann Fabric, using 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. I've had it for about a year that way now, with no problems. A couple of tips though:
- You have to hit both the back of the fabric and the inside of the tube with the glue for it to really adhere.
- Be careful because once you touch the surfaces together they arent coming apart. I rolled the fabric on a broomstick, and inserted it into the OTA, then gradually unrolled it a bit at a time, pressing it into place.
- Keep all optics, focusers, screws, etc., far, far away when you are spraying adhesive.

Here's a link to the thread where I asked about this before: Flocking with Velvet Fabric

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#433 kfiscus

Cosmos

Posts: 8,232
Joined: 09 Jul 2012
Loc: Albert Lea, MN, USA

Posted 22 December 2013 - 05:56 AM

I used the Protostar flocking board. Its plastic backing is springy, wanting to keep it against the tube. I used small pieces of the 3M premium foam adhesive tape (has red release plastic) as insurance. I also used the OTA's bolts to hold the flocking in place. You'll want new Exacto knife blades and the brightest work lights available as you go. It gets harder and harder to see what you're doing as the flocking is installed. I used fast-drying flat black paint on all the bolts heads after everything was in.

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#434 Elroy

Vostok 1

Posts: 178
Joined: 22 Nov 2013

Posted 22 December 2013 - 10:32 AM

I may have been reading too much! lol
thanks for the replies, I know I'm in the right place. :grin:

I'll run by Joann's fabrics today or tomorrow while doing some last minute Christmas shopping and check it out.

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#435 Elroy

Vostok 1

Posts: 178
Joined: 22 Nov 2013

Posted 22 December 2013 - 10:36 AM

Thanks kfiscus! You've done an awesome job with your scope, you and skizoid!

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#436 poodle

Ranger 4

Posts: 380
Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Loc: Breckenridge, Texas

Posted 23 December 2013 - 07:30 PM

I have a question, I noticed on the mirror cell on my Z12 that there are six spokes on the cell. On the spokes that have the pads that support the mirror it has the lock screws. On the other spokes it has the adjustment screws. Is that not backward? I would figure that the spokes that support the mirror would have the adjustment screws. I noticed on the pic. that bevelhead posted that his were the same way.

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#437 cpr1

Viking 1

Posts: 926
Joined: 24 Mar 2012
Loc: Louisiana

Posted 23 December 2013 - 11:23 PM

Hi Steve. The cell was designed that way. The collimation screws thread into the circular frame. The spokes move with the frame, The triangle pads float on the frame. The triangles have sticky pads with usually one pad on each triangle stuck to the back of the mirror. The other little pads have the plastic film still on so they are not stuck.

This is how they decided to keep the triangles in the appropriate positions.

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#438 DarkSkysRFun

Viking 1

Posts: 546
Joined: 08 May 2014

Posted 07 January 2014 - 07:34 AM

bump bump...
just plaining my carrying handle local. not sure if to put one on side in front of bearing. then one on other side. or one on top and carry with say left hand in top handle and right hand in the cell ..
also thought about . gettin a case to fit cell in . and thumb screws. remove cell . move tube. replace cell. so on so on..
it gives more chance i guess to damage the cell. but if i make a cover to fit over it around the sides to support might be good ..
any ideas on this would be great...

also thought about the truss mod.. not to sure.. has anyone else done this?? if so how do you like it? pros cons ???
thread should be a sticky..
these mods work with many Newt/Dobs

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#439 kfiscus

Cosmos

Posts: 8,232
Joined: 09 Jul 2012
Loc: Albert Lea, MN, USA

Posted 07 January 2014 - 01:24 PM

I started out with two Strap-A-Handles, one on each side of the bearings. I didn't have the control I wanted for maneuvering the OTA through doorways and into/out of van. I now have one strap behind the bearings for my right hand and use my left inside the open front end.

I've considered putting the 2nd Strap-A-Handle back on in front of the bearings and then making a coupling to join the two straps for safety and to make a handle that is 90 degrees rotated (parallel to OTA). This might end up like the pricey ScopeTote ($80 for 12").

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#440 DarkSkysRFun

Viking 1

Posts: 546
Joined: 08 May 2014

Posted 07 January 2014 - 01:47 PM

not sure if it will do this to you if you add the 2nd strap..
i made a nylon rope harnes. to get idea of a 2inch width straping. like a model to work from..
i found the min i picked up from the handles all weight went right to the top handle. to me witch is wried as the weight i would think falls to the bottom handle.. i did have the rope goin around the cell side or bottom if you will.. so it wouldnt slide out of the harnes. so 2 loops around ota and 2 across the bottom.
mind you same basic idea as you have. but again i used nylon rope with zip ties to make the 1st idea ..
for me didnt like the idea of transfer of weight to top handle so i tossed the idea to the side. and seen the handle s. ill give your idea a go and see how it feels.
i do have to bring it up and down a flight of stairs. but not offten. once it warms up. it will be outside.. and into truck isnt bad once and while ..

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#441 Elroy

Vostok 1

Posts: 178
Joined: 22 Nov 2013

Posted 15 January 2014 - 01:56 AM

I used the Protostar flocking board. Its plastic backing is springy, wanting to keep it against the tube. I used small pieces of the 3M premium foam adhesive tape (has red release plastic) as insurance. I also used the OTA's bolts to hold the flocking in place. You'll want new Exacto knife blades and the brightest work lights available as you go. It gets harder and harder to see what you're doing as the flocking is installed. I used fast-drying flat black paint on all the bolts heads after everything was in.

Oh no, this thread isn't going anywhere.

I went ahead and went with the flocking board. So what your saying is all hardware to all mods are are outside of the flocking board to hold it in, then the hardware was painted black. And this includes the bolts to the altitude bearing assemblies? 4 bolts per side?
Almost there!

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#442 kfiscus

Cosmos

Posts: 8,232
Joined: 09 Jul 2012
Loc: Albert Lea, MN, USA

Posted 15 January 2014 - 08:18 PM

100% correct. It gets unbelievably dark in there, but that's the point. I had a hard time seeing where to dab the last bits of paint. Have several new Xacto knife blades ready to cut the flocking away from your holes.

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#443 Sarkikos

ISS

Posts: 40,236
Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Loc: Right Coast of the Chesapeake Bay

Posted 15 January 2014 - 08:42 PM

100% correct. It gets unbelievably dark in there, but that's the point. I had a hard time seeing where to dab the last bits of paint. Have several new Xacto knife blades ready to cut the flocking away from your holes.

The solution is to strap a bright white-light flashlight on your forehead while working on the interior of the OTA. The better kinds can be directed up or down to shine exactly on the point you are working on. I wouldn't do anything like this without a forehead flashlight.

Forehead Flashlights

Mike

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#444 petrus45

Ranger 4

Posts: 311
Joined: 31 Jan 2011
Loc: SW Ohio / N Ky.

Posted 26 January 2014 - 01:41 PM

Can someone post the specs for the power source for the Z10 fan? Voltage, plug type, etc.?

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#445 Cames

Apollo

Posts: 1,018
Joined: 04 Aug 2008

Posted 26 January 2014 - 04:05 PM

Can someone post the specs for the power source for the Z10 fan? Voltage, plug type, etc.?

Power to the cooling fan should be DC only12volts. Initially the 8 fresh AA batteries provide greater than 12 volts and it doesn't seem to bother the fan. Eventually, the fan will run on lower voltage as the batteries deplete albeit rotating more slowly. Slower speeds may also reduce some of the fan-induced vibration.

An AC adapter that converts line current to an output of 12 volts DC at at least 600 milliamps can be substituted.

The female DC input jack accepts the ubiquitous center-post-positive 5.5mm OD x 2.1mm ID male barrel plug.
-----
C

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#446 rowdy388

Fly Me to the Moon

Posts: 5,101
Joined: 09 Apr 2013
Loc: Saratoga County, NY

Posted 27 January 2014 - 12:15 AM

Here is a new topic I believe:
The focuser on my Z12 does not mate flush with the OTA. The focuser base is curved for a smaller tube probably because they are more popular. There is a gap where light, dust, spiders, whatever can get inside.

To make matters worse, I needed to shim the focuser to square it to the OTA to get it properly collimated.

Now I have an even bigger gap and I'm wondering how to seal it. :shrug:

I suspect a caulking gun is not the way to go......any ideas out there?
Thanks, Dave Y

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#447 Sarkikos

ISS

Posts: 40,236
Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Loc: Right Coast of the Chesapeake Bay

Posted 27 January 2014 - 06:55 AM

Maybe get some pieces of black foam sheeting, layer to the proper thickness, glue them together and wedge them between the focuser and OTA.

Mike

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#448 kfiscus

Cosmos

Posts: 8,232
Joined: 09 Jul 2012
Loc: Albert Lea, MN, USA

Posted 27 January 2014 - 09:03 AM

I like Mike's black foam idea. If not that, how about wedging small pieces of black felt in there. If the gap is a little too large, tiny rolls of felt forced in there.

I flocked the exterior of my Z12 around the focuser to help suppress glare from LP. Most of my focuser gap went away. as a side effect.

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#449 Sarkikos

ISS

Posts: 40,236
Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Loc: Right Coast of the Chesapeake Bay

Posted 27 January 2014 - 09:07 AM

Black foam core would also work, if it is the right thickness or a little thicker. It can be easily cut to size with an X-acto knife. Foam core will compress to fit and should stay put. Dope it with outdoor sealant first to protect from dew.

Mike